Kawasaki Sportsbike Riders Club - Australia - Online Forum

Funnily enough I purchased an original seal from a dealer (a different one) and it was neither expensive nor difficult to fit. Why they didn't fit one when all they had to do was walk 8 feet to the parts counter and grab one was beyond me. I owned the bike for another 6 years after that and the ...

Years ago I bought a ZZR1100 from a Kawasaki dealer on the north side of Brisbane. On the test ride it was obvious that the steering head bearings were buggered. I said I'd buy it but I wanted the bearings replaced.
"Not a problem I was told, come back tomorrow."
Returned the next day and the ...

R

If it's like the D model it won't energise until you hit the start button. Put it on the centrestand, put the sidestand down and put it in gear. Ignition on and then hit start button. Leave the clutch alone. The fuel pump should start pumping straight away and should be the only thing working. This ...

I just dismantled the whole cap and worked out where it should vent and made sure it did. Just put a couple of very small V-shaped grooves in the cap internals. When you think about it the grooves don't have to be very big. Be careful pulling the fuel cap apart (I usually do something like that ...

From memory the T-piece that held the stand stops on my bike bolted into the muffler mounting hole on the left hand footpeg hanger bracket. I believe it's on the tyre side of the bracket. It's been 10 years since I sold mine and I never paid that part much attention, so the memory is a bit rusty.

Mine used to cutout when the fuel level was low or flood on a hot day because of the tank cap vent not working properly. A bit of careful file work rectified it.

As far as I can recall there are supposed to be a couple of rubber stops under the left hand muffler. Mine had a 4 into 1 and there was a t-piece hanging from the foot peg hanger (I think) that held a couple of rubbers.

Used to have a similar problem on my 1100. The switch on the 1100 is just a simple plunger switch. With the stand down the switch is depressed and when the stand is retracted the plunger extends. The 1100 switch gets sticky in the cold and takes about 30 seconds to fully extend. The simple fix in my ...

Watch out for roos. I recently put a low mileage motor in my high mileage, but otherwise well looked after 1100, and within a couple of months I hit a roo on it and wrote it off. Had a minor win though, the insurance company at least gave me almost enough money to replace it. That's why I knew about ...

D model engine will fit. C model engine goes in D model frame as well and to the best of my knowledge a zzr1200 engine wil fit in a C frame. If you use a D engine use the D front sprocket. The input shaft of the C is shorter and the sprocket is dished out. The shaft is longer on the D and the ...

Radiator and exhaust are supposed to be a straight swap. Radiator has twin fans but some people on other board report that they blow the 10 amp fuse and you have to replace it with a 15. All good so long as the wires don't melt which is my major concern. Like I said, wondering if anyone in OZ has ...

Hi,
Has anyone on here installed a zzr1200 radiator in a D model 1100? Supposedly a bolt up fit and a few members on another board have supposedly done it. The board is an international one and they're all overseas (Europe mainly) and there are a few mixed messages about fuses and wiring, so I was ...

Electronic ID.
Fuck this shit, it's time for a revolt.
Put more Police on the streets MF's and then we might actually believe your not
just revenue raising.
Bit of interesting reading her http://events.ccc.de/congress/2005/static/r/f/i/RFID-Zapper%28EN%29_77f3.html
I already feel like I should ...

Rear suspension adjustment requires a certain amount of dismantling to get at the adjustment rings. Oh, and a C-spanner too. Mine was too soft when I bought it so I got Rad to rebuild it, then it was too hard, and no amount of preload adjustment would soften it. In the end I binned it and put on a ...