okay, let's get it back on the road.

[paul w]

I mean, the bike (not the fairing) has a great overall shape. The slab of an engine, the finning, the four pipes, the sidecovers....but gee, looking at it from today's perspective, the skinny forks, the size of that rear brake, the frame design, the weight...

[hoffy]

1. New battery
2. New air filter
3. Drain tank/carbs, 1/2 fill only and 1 bottle of Wynns fuel system cleaner.
4. Check valve clearances
5. Replace engine oil & filter, and then do it again after the motor has been running/bike ridden.
6. Replace brake fluid - if you get any leaks from the calipers after a bleed, then do the brake rubbers. Otherwise I wouldn't bother.
7. Give the wheels a spin by hand while on the c/stand. If you can hear any noises, or the wheel doesn't spin freely or feels a bit *howyagoin* ( thats a technical term for fucked) - then do the bearings. Otherwise, I wouldn't bother.
8. Check the chain tension and give it some chain lube.
9. Give all control cables a lube.
10. Change the tyres if you really *have* to. Otherwise, I would keep using the old ones....at least for a while, get your money's worth mate
11. Probably worth giving the steering head bearings a re-grease, or even replace them with tapered bearings if the bike is still fitted with the original ball-and-race bearings....definitely worth greasing up the swingarm pivot, and torquing this back up to OEM spec (tight).
12. *Maybe* replace the fork oil if the front end feels a bit *howyagoin* when you go for that first ride. Fresh fork oil does feel and work better than old stuff. Fork seals should be replaced if you get a ring up the fork leg.
13. Depending on what shocks are fitted to the rear.....I would probably look at replacing those as well. 7610 Ikon's are the go, or perhaps a set of Hagon shocks from Moose Racing in Melbourne. They do a nice repro-style with the chromed spring cover for <$400 a pair.
14. The seat foam will probably be fucked (dried out) after so many years. But....it may also be OK. Only replace this if its really needed.
15. Handgrips - these are also likely to be worn/stretched/falling apart (sounds like my ex...). Its definitely worth replacing these with new ones.
16. Lube the speedo and tacho cables.
17. A spray of WD40 inside the switch blocks is a good idea. Spiders hate this shit !
18. Lube the rear brake pedal pivot with a light film of grease, not WD40.
19. Replace all fuses - preferably replace the entire fuse-box with a box using blade-fuses. The old glass-type fuse used in these bikes are getting harder to find, and in some regional garages, are not stocked at all. You can get blade fuses pretty much anywhere.
20. Do the ignition-coil modification. Basically, you wire a relay into the start circuit, and power both ignition coils from the relay. Use the kill-switch supply to the coils as the +12v source for the relay. This provides a much-improved source of +12v power to the ignition coils - the result is better (instant) starting, and better overall running. Just use a normal automotive 12v relay with 2 outputs, and these are connected to the ignition coils. Great mod !
21. Once you get the old girl running properly, balance the carbies.
22. Replace the fuel filter (if fitted) - probably a good idea to replace all fuel lines anyway, they will be old and perished.....a bit *howyagoin* .....
23. The sidecover grommets may be dried/perished as well after this time in storage. If they are cracked, then replace all 6, otherwise you will lose your sidecovers the first time you wind her out....they cost a bob these days...



Thats about all I can think of, off the top of my head. Good luck with the project !!

and some pictures when you are finished would be nice....

cheers
Dr Z

the Kawasaki Dunger encyclopedia speaks !

[Gosling1]

Hoffenator - you really should get yourself an old Zeddie project bike, so you too can learn to love the 70's !!! It was a great time, and you may be surprised at the speed and comfort that these old dungers are capable of, when sorted out properly.........even an old Z1000A1 like this one would still be good for about 220kmh, and is easily capable of sitting on 140-160kmh touring speeds anywhere you want to go......

Paul - got a bit of work ahead of you mate, but if all the bits are there, then its just a matter of starting at the front, and working your way backwards. Thats the best way to do a number on a project like this...........your picture of the bike back when it was a runner, reminds me very much of a mate of mine's Z1000A1 - it was Red, and also in very good nick back then....

Here are a couple of pictures of my Z1000A1 - it was called 'Cherry', due to the Cherry-Red candy apple metalflake paintjob it had received some decades ago... - A great bike, currently retired from active duty, but waiting patiently in the 4th for the day it gets wheeled to the front of the queue for some TLC....

First photo - fitted with wire wheels (rear alloy 3.5"), and custom muffler. Don't be fooled by the z900 sidecover badges...



In this shot, she is fitted with the stock rims from the Black Pearl, gearsack rack (I think this was before the ride to Qld in 2001), and z1000 badges.



The previous owner painted the motor black, its a dinkum 1977 Z1000 engine. I think I will strip all that paint off when it goes to the front of the queue....

[paul w]

Had another rummage through the bits n bobs...it's all there, and all in pretty good nick. The photo makes it look worse than it actually is. Got myself a gearsack rack in there, too.

I was going to try and get it up and running ASAP, but I may take mt time with it...

As for top speed, I once got mine to an indicated 235 kmh (on a long downhill run), but a few years later got the speedo re calibrated at found it was about 20kph out at that speed!

Yes, a great touring speed for me was in the 120-140kmh, though it could easily sit on 160 all day if required. I just preferred a more leisurely pace. That big Z motor was a very understressed beast.

I'll be putting the standard system back on. Of course, when younger I used to love the bike loud, but now I want quiet. My hearing is stuffed enough thanks to not wearing earplugs in the early days.

Thanks for the advice, everyone.

[Gosling1]

Keep the photos coming during the rebuild mate always good to see how a project bike is coming along....

If you haven't yet done the ignition coil modification, its worth doing. Probably best left until you are getting closer to starting the old girl.....takes about 30 minutes to complete, and will ensure instant starting every time.

[Whickle]

Keep the photos coming during the rebuild mate always good to see how a project bike is coming along....

If you haven't yet done the ignition coil modification, its worth doing. Probably best left until you are getting closer to starting the old girl.....takes about 30 minutes to complete, and will ensure instant starting every time.

Hmmmmm, Im keen in this mod you speak of for my 7Fiddy!

[paul w]

Ignition coil modification?

Why? I never had a problem starting the Z1000.

The only mod I'm really thinking of is electronic ignition.

[Gosling1]

......Hmmmmm, Im keen in this mod you speak of for my 7Fiddy!........

Too easy. You'll need to bring the old girl around to the 4th one weekend.

....Ignition coil modification?.....Why? I never had a problem starting the Z1000.....The only mod I'm really thinking of is electronic ignition.

Its not actually a modification to the 'coils' per se, its a modification to how the coils are supplied with +12v from the ignition. Its also compatible with electronic ignition

Your Z1000 probably started fine and dandy - back when it was being ridden all the time, and the electrics were all new....but over time, the wiring and connections between the battery and the ignition coils does degrade. Resistance can build up in the ignition switch and the kill-switch. All these old Kawasaki's used the kill-switch to supply +12v to the coils.

So, the +12v from the battery first had to get up to the ignition switch (via switch blocks), then back and up to the kill-switch (via another switch-block), then through the kill switch directly to the ignition coils.

On some of the older Zeds, its not unusual to read 12v at the battery, and 9-10v at the coil feeds.....

What this mod does, is just power the ignition coils from a standard 12v automotive relay. The best ones are the ones with the double output.

Relay is wired with a direct +12v feed from the battery, via a fuse. Its also earthed as per any normal relay fitting. The +12v 'trigger' is supplied from one of the original 12v feeds to the ignition coils (the red leads). Just tape the other lead up. You then supply the coils with +12v from the 2 output terminals of the relay. The relay can be mounted up under the tank near the coils, cable-tied out of the way. There are no external indications of this mod. None of the original wiring for the ignition or the kill-switch is touched (except for the 2 leads fitted to the coil terminals).

Its a really simple mod, and ensures *instant* starting every time. Just like a new bike !! Mick C has a circuit diagram somewhere.....

[photomike666]

Interesting read - Paul, you mentioned having a gasket kit for the engine. I'd recommend changing the valve seals while you're there - these do perish and the bike will run hot. You will know it's happened because you can smell it after a brisk run

[paul w]

Hey, really appreciate the help I'm getting here. Awesome.
Thanks, everyone.

[MickLC]

....Its a really simple mod, and ensures *instant* starting every time. Just like a new bike !! Mick C has a circuit diagram somewhere.....

I just remember the look you gave me when I first told you about the coil mod when I'd done it on the Surfer....I had to check that a second head hadn't suddenly popped up on my shoulder! You finally came around though



....and yeah, the Surfer was only getting around 9v at the coils until I did the mod, now it's got a healthy +12v. I'll see if I can dig up the diagram....

[MickLC]

Even better I'll give you the link to the Wiredgeorge page where he's done the full explanation...

http://www.wgcarbs.com/index.php?option ... &Itemid=26

...and this is the diagram....

[Gosling1]

thanks Mick - I really should keep a copy of that on the PB album.....did one of these on Dub's GPz 7fiddy the other weekend at Lurch's place. Still haven't put one on the Pearl yet.... - it starts pretty well instantly anyway.

[paul w]

Put the machine back together for it to be transported to NSW using a motorbike transport company.
Took some photos (which I forgot today but will post shortly).
Well, the bike's in good nick, generally, but was totally bummed to find the exhausts were more rusted than i thought - the end of one has a decent slice of rust, and a hole about 4cm across, and the other a hole about the same size. Bastard!
Is it worth keeping them, maybe to slice off the mufflers to keep the headers and attach other mufflers? I saw some new 4-2 for a Z1000 for about $700, which is pretty good.
Also a bit of rust under the back mudguard (surface rust only) but that's about it.
But, gee, it looks good.

[paul w]

Oh, and the seat base was badly rusted, just the sides, so I've kept it to see if it can be repaired: I saw the price of a new seat!