Anyone been following the AMCN ZRX1200?

[bonester]

BTW the green bike pictured above is a ZRX400!

[Six Addict]

"the new baby lawson"

exzaccary, hens i mentioned LAMS

yamaha also do an XJR400 as well has honda doing the cb400 and suzuki doing the GXS400... if only the manufacturers could get those bike out here for around 8500-9000 on road... instead of 10,000+ORC like the honda...

[snowymountainsmick]

What does the carby /jet kit consist of? Is it just an assortment of jets to fine tube the carby or is it a carbie upgrade or something. My dyno guy prefers to use the genuine kawasaki jets which are available in a kit from Mick Maladin apparently. He says their quality is more consistent that the others.

I would love an Ohlins upgrade, but may settle for a re-spring and rebuild of the forks and shocks. Teknik at Penrith in NSW quoted me $1200 for new springs and a complete rebuild and upgrade of the dampening set up, etc and a tailoring of the set up for the individual rider.

Quotes for the Ohlins forks run around $3500 and $2500 for the rear shocks. I suppose you could source them cheaper over the net.

I'm a big guy, 60, not going to race the bike (I might do the odd track day), but enjoy a good handling bike and plan to keep this one until I finish with bikes in my late 70s or earlly 80s if I last that long, or my knee forces me into a cruiser or land barge, Boo! Hoo!

I'm a sensible rider most of the time, but I do love my twisties and want a bike that handles as well as I can get it.

I have always run Konis in the past and have an Ikon (aussie made Konis since they stopped making motorcycle shocks and sold all their gear and stock to Proven Products in Albury) shock and fork springs on my BMW R80ST. Maybe this would be another way to go.

What are your experiences?

[Phil]

Ohlins rear shocks and a fork re-valve is the go. Thats what i've done to mine and it handles a treat.

The Ohlins are a little longer than the OE ones so they aid turn in as well. The forks work much better after an upgrade and the whole bike fells lighter and more settled.

HTH

[snowymountainsmick]

That sounds liek a good way to go, buttttttttttttttttt, it is a lot of money either way, I'm not rushing into it. I'll run it in over the next month or so and decide then.

I forgot, still haven't heard about the carbie mods.

[Phil]

That sounds liek a good way to go, buttttttttttttttttt, it is a lot of money either way, I'm not rushing into it. I'll run it in over the next month or so and decide then.

Worth every penny IMHO. Upgrade of the std equip will still cost you a few $$ either way. Personnally I'd rather put that toward some mods that will make a really noticeable difference.

Also depends on how hard you want it, the std stuff can only do so much

[Phil]

Oh, BTW, my jet kit consisted of two sets of jets, one for stg1 and one for stg 3. It also came with instructions on how to fit it.

[snowymountainsmick]

What I am wondering is the mod that they did on the long term test bike, just a change of jets or some other mod to the carbies?

[bonester]

Factory Pro kit has 4 X pilot jets (didn't use them- they're for an aftermarket pipe- didn't work with mine), 4 X adjustable needles, and heaps of jets- if you can't rejet with this kit there is something wrong. I ended up using two jets out of the kit and the needles. Nearly 130 RWHp with standard pipe. I think the dyno lied somewhat.

[Phil]

What I am wondering is the mod that they did on the long term test bike, just a change of jets or some other mod to the carbies?

It has been done in stages, the first mod was just the jet kit as the jetting was way to lean, I spoke to Phil T and he said it was dangerously lean. The jet kit fixed that and gave more power.

When I rode it it was prior to the jet kit and inital dyno run, compared to mine it was flat as a tack off the bottom and didnt pull as hard through the mid range, even before the Kerker and Juet Kit mine would have eaten it for brekky. Mine has a measured 120 at the rear wheel on a conservative dyno and the Fuchs Dyno at Flywheels.

[hoffy]

Ill take the Black One !! Hawt !!!!

[bonester]

Got the ZRX pretty spot on now- standard pilots, jets one size bigger than stock and needles in the top clip hole. Getting 19km/L compared to 13km/L - runs well, wheelies well and now goes nearly 120km further on a tank, which is welcome on a smallish tank. My GT550 has 2.5L more fuel than ZRX...

[Woof]

Damn, 13 k/L! I've gotta 05 Rex with a Muzzy and I get 20 k/L everywhere (and better on the run to the Island). However, my local mechanic with a gas analyser gave it a tweak when running the stock system early on (thanks Dave) and it's always run pretty well. PS: does anybody have the definitive and final best carb setup for running a Muzzy and a stock airbox? I dont want to spend days (weeks?) pulling off and putting on carbs. I'd rather be riding, dudes. Woof.........

[mike-s]

When i had a dynojet kit for my old gpx750 it consisted of new springs that seemed a bit shorter but more firm in their resistance, a drill bit to take the bleed hole on the slider out about 0.5-0.75mm or so, a new needle that seemed to be richer/taper a bit more quickly in the top 1/3 section but was a lot leaner (wider) towards the midrange. even with the increased-airflow mods of drilling x # of holes in the airbox i still couldn't use a stage 1 set of jets and went back to some oem/stock ones i had floating about. and seemed to get better performance than i was originally, aside from the ever-so-slight cold splutter it did off-idle when it was really cold.

So yeah, doesn't surprise me others have had to fiddle with the main jets and used ones other than included with the kit.

[Woof]

Ill take the Black One !! Hawt !!!!

Mate, yeah, the black is cool, but give me one in Rob Muzzy green anyday!!!