Any wood workers here?

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aardvark
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Any wood workers here?

Post by aardvark »

OK, I know I'm probably gonna sound like a dill for this, but here goes.

I have just put some laminate timber flooring into my study. I need to cover the expansion gap along the edge of the walls, so I bought some 19mm quarter round.

I painted the quarter round and thought tonight would be a good time to fit it, however, I didn't really think about how the hell you butt this shit together when you get to the corner.

Does anyone know how to cut this stuff so that it joins up properly at the corner? I don't have a mitre box and can't see the point in buying one just for this.

Should I just take the lengths to Bunnings and get them to cut it?
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Post by RG »

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Post by Gosling1 »

if you can find a 45deg 'triangle' out of a school 'set-square' kit, you will be fine......just scribe the 45deg and away you go........

a mitre-box would be too big anyway, more of a pain than a help.

This is why you should have a compound mitre-saw in your shed !!

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Re: Any wood workers here?

Post by Smitty »

aardvark wrote:OK, I know I'm probably gonna sound like a dill for this, but here goes.

I have just put some laminate timber flooring into my study. I need to cover the expansion gap along the edge of the walls, so I bought some 19mm quarter round. I painted the quarter round and thought tonight would be a good time to fit it, however, I didn't really think about how the hell you butt this shit together when you get to the corner.

Does anyone know how to cut this stuff so that it joins up properly at the corner? I don't have a mitre box and can't see the point in buying one just for this.

Should I just take the lengths to Bunnings and get them to cut it?
Jase
as one who has built/renovated/extended quite a few houses over the years...the trick in corners with 19mm quad
(its official name)
is NOT to use a mitre box or try and cut a 45° angle on the two bits that
join there..usually ends up an ugly join

what you do is to lay one piece right into the corner ..with its end cut square (at 90° if you like) and use a jigsaw or similar to cut the quad profile out of end of the other piece (that comes into corner)
a perfect join (and one the trade uses which is where I learnt it )

not sure?
looks like this...'scuse the scribble

try it with a piece of offcut first


hth
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Post by aardvark »

Ian, that makes sense. And you didn't even use any confusing words like Gos!

The next question is, how the hell do I mark out the line that I need to cut? Given that the surface of the quad is curved...
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Post by the kid »

To get the line of the curve all you do is do a 45 degree cut . The edge of the saw cut is then used as your line !
Buy a coping saw , very cheap like a hacksaw but shorter with a very thin wood blade that will curve around .
The compound mitre saw is the go for the 45 cut and a cheap ones are around and are always handy .
A smear of Gap filler in the join as you put it together is easier than after , just wipe off the excess that squeezes out with a damp cloth .
Pre priming the Quad is a bit of a time saver too .
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Post by SenNey »

A mitre box is like $10 don't be such a tight arse.

:lol:
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Post by Smitty »

aardvark wrote:Ian, that makes sense. And you didn't even use any confusing words like Gos!

The next question is, how the hell do I mark out the line that I need to cut? Given that the surface of the quad is curved...
Jase
place the 2 pieces at 90° to each other and use the profile of the piece
(you are not wanting to cut) to do the outline for your pencil mark on the piece you will cut

hope that makes sense

then use a jigsaw or coping saw (as Bill said)


hth
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Post by diesel »

jase,
to mark the line, use a stanley knife instead of a pencil if you want. it's neater.
and a 45 degree join can look good if done well and it's easier.
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Post by Damon Z1000 »

Before buying a mitre box you may wanna listen to Smitty, 45 and 45 make 90 right, how many walls do ya know in a typical property are perfect 90 degrees.
I usually mitre mine as I go along, just take your time and arm yourself with a little squeezable gap filler with a little of the colour paint mixed in with it to smear into any cracks :wink:
In the perfect world all walls would be square, problem is we don't live in a perfect world :roll:
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Post by James »

Cut your piece to length, then measure 19mm from the end of the piece and mark it on the front edge. Then draw a diagonal line from the mark you just made to the back corner edge of the piece of timer from which you took your measurement.

:D
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Post by Smitty »

thanks Damon...yeah good point and one I forgot

the trade uses my method coz it works if the inner angle is not exactly 90°
and
which builder gets corners exactly 90° ?:roll:

cheers
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Post by kellz »

we had teh same issue with my room when we layed teh new floor..

so thast when i left and dady took over. but also if your worried about getting the line straight use a bit of paper with a straight edge which will bend with the wood and give you a straight line...

or just take it to bunnings with the correct measurements...
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Post by aardvark »

Well, thanks all for the advice. I went and bought a mitre box. Thanks SenNey. :lol:

$10 on something I'll never use again, but it made things easy.
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Post by SenNey »

aardvark wrote:Well, thanks all for the advice. I went and bought a mitre box. Thanks SenNey. :lol:

$10 on something I'll never use again, but it made things easy.
Yes but now you own ANOTHER tool.
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