Lining up the back wheel correctly

thewonderer · Post by **thewonderer** » Sat Apr 08, 2006 10:24 am

Guys,

I heard somewhere that you can't really trust the marks on the swing arm to truly line up the back wheel when you make adjustments to the chain or swap over the tyre.

I heard that the swingarms have a margin of error in them. The best way i've heard is to use some string fron the front of the bike to the back axle or something like that.

Does anyone have the definite guide to keeping your front and rear truly alligned correctly?

Cheers,

Martin

ty · Post by ty » Sat Apr 08, 2006 12:07 pm

I've always used the marks - in my opinion the string method is more error prone.
Unless your frame is bent the swingarms marks should be sufficient.
Other than that a straight edge rather than string would be the way to go.
ty

javaman · Post by **javaman** » Sat Apr 08, 2006 12:57 pm

Quite a good article here on how to do that:

http://motorcyclistonline.com/howto/string_align_motorcycle_wheels/

But I just use the marks, should be allright ...

Smitty · Post by **Smitty** » Sat Apr 08, 2006 3:43 pm

you either need a frame jig...like the race teams use
to check the alignment of wheels to each other
(and the frame)
or just use the swingarm marks.

The only time I have ever found the marks to be out
is when the swingarm bearings were stuffed and the swing arm
was slopping all over the place (on a Suzi waterbottle I had)

hth

Rossi · Post by **Rossi** » Sat Apr 08, 2006 5:21 pm

Use a small laser pointer/level, put it on the rear cog and align the laser along the run of the chain :wink:

photomike666 · Post by **photomike666** » Sat Apr 08, 2006 5:25 pm

There is some kinda laser gadget on the market that fits to front sprocket and rear sprocket, can't recall price just now - but it wasn't as cheap as string

hoffy · Post by **hoffy** » Sat Apr 08, 2006 5:55 pm

i just use the marks, should be cool :wink:

Tones · Post by **Tones** » Sat Apr 08, 2006 8:01 pm

The good 'ol string method is a tried and trusted method. Problem with it however is doing it right. That means yorus tyres must be true. If the string is caught in part of the tread, or the tyre is a little out then the string will also be out. You need a centre or race stand to do it and then it is good to have two people to ensure steering is straight etc. The other thing that can catch you out is where the string is run. Sometimes it can foul stands, exhaust, etc. I often use this method to "check" on the accuracy of the marks, then use them thereafter. If a chain adjustment is needed I just ensure that both adjusted are turned exactly teh same amount. I would also add that be careful when tightening up the axel. Make sure you are tightening against the adjuster so that it "sets" the axel position. I have seen some people caught out when they tighten the axel it creeps away from the adjuster and therefore throws the wheel alignment off. Of course we all know that Both adjusters on each side are required to be used for adjusting a chain. Sorry have to say it just in case.

Another method is to have someone ride towards you and look at the front wheel and check that the rear wheel tracks evenly behind it. If the rear crabs to one side it will most likely be due to the rear being out of adjustment. If a biks is crabbing it will usually be pretty obvious. Traveling towards you at about 25 km/h on a flat road should do it.

Usually the marks can be pretty accurate (provided the frame is straight etc. You would be surprised to see how many are not from the factory). Often the techniques for adjusting are more so the cause. Some people may be able to pick if a bike is crabbing as it will turn easier one direction than the other, but some dismiss it due to having a preverence to one over the other as well.

Cheers

mrmina · Post by **mrmina** » Mon Apr 10, 2006 1:42 pm

mate use the markers on the swing frame and then double check the distance with a steel ruler or a set of calipers.

ross79 · Post by **ross79** » Wed May 10, 2006 8:20 pm

Rossi wrote:Use a small laser pointer/level, put it on the rear cog and align the laser along the run of the chain

I came across that while flicking through one of my magazines. It's called
a Profi C.A.T. laser. Costs $99 can be found at http://www.ausit.com.au
or call them on (03) 9602 4400

chameleon · Post by **chameleon** » Wed May 10, 2006 10:49 pm

just get ya self a zzr11, you only have to do it once cause the two sides move in unison as you spin the locked eccentrics.

mrmina · Post by **mrmina** » Thu May 11, 2006 9:29 am

chameleon wrote:just get ya self a zzr11, you only have to do it once cause the two sides move in unison as you spin the locked eccentrics.

thats cheating

mick_dundee · Post by **mick_dundee** » Thu May 11, 2006 12:51 pm

mrmina wrote:
chameleon wrote:just get ya self a zzr11, you only have to do it once cause the two sides move in unison as you spin the locked eccentrics.
thats cheating

No that's clever, even easier method is just buy a shaftie

Tones · Post by **Tones** » Thu May 11, 2006 5:35 pm

mick_dundee wrote:
mrmina wrote:
chameleon wrote:just get ya self a zzr11, you only have to do it once cause the two sides move in unison as you spin the locked eccentrics.
thats cheating
No that's clever, even easier method is just buy a shaftie

I second that!!! hehe

mrmina · Post by **mrmina** » Sat May 13, 2006 1:34 pm

mick_dundee wrote:
mrmina wrote:
chameleon wrote:just get ya self a zzr11, you only have to do it once cause the two sides move in unison as you spin the locked eccentrics.
thats cheating
No that's clever, even easier method is just buy a shaftie

doesnt ur boyfriend give u the shaftie for free