mate, they use a massive robot to install these at the factory, with something like 300nM applied ( or at least it feels that much..)
You can use a long breaker-bar on the right-sized sprocket - bung a big piece of timber in the back wheel so it locks up against the swingarm - say a couple of prayers and heave your guts out. Good luck.
When I did Mel's front sprocket a few years ago.......the workshop took 2 goes with the gas-axe to get the fucken nut to loosen up. Its a nightmare. If your sprocket has already been done, then maybe the breaker bar or an air rattle-gun will do the trick.
".....shut the gate on this one Maxie......it's the ducks guts !!............."
ER6n is the same. Lotsa swearing to get the fukker off. Rear brake on, extension bar jammed in sprocket (new ones getting fitted afterwards) and a complete fukker to get off. Rattle gun didn't work. BIG breaker bar did. eventually.
2 X ZRX1200R 4 X ER6N, GT550, 1988 ZX-10, 4 X GPZ250R, 4 X GPZ900R and GPZ750R Yeah I like Kawasakis.
Definitely don't have one of them on my 9 and I would stay away from the square section when you're trying to loosen it, unless you want to shear the sucker off that is. Looks like you need one of those 6-point deep impact sockets. I bought one from repco for about $30 to remove the drive shaft lock nuts off the car to replace them. I always use a big piece of timber through the rear wheel and against the swingarm like Gos said and breaker bar. Makes a lovely big cracking sound when it finally lets go too and for a split second I always think I've broken something.
Kev wrote:Definitely don't have one of them on my 9 and I would stay away from the square section when you're trying to loosen it, unless you want to shear the sucker off that is. Looks like you need one of those 6-point deep impact sockets. I bought one from repco for about $30 to remove the drive shaft lock nuts off the car to replace them. I always use a big piece of timber through the rear wheel and against the swingarm like Gos said and breaker bar. Makes a lovely big cracking sound when it finally lets go too and for a split second I always think I've broken something.
This is the socket I use.
Yep that's the socket.
27mm socket on most.
I did Hoffy's the other week. And even with a shithot electric rattle gun, it took a good 5 seconds before the nut started turning.
Wattie #55
ZX10R "The Crim"
ZX10R "Gumby"
Proudly Supported by Allfixed Automotive 9634 1455 sam & srt, survived RGM, left a message
I shit hot 1/2inch electric rattle gun will have up to or about 400nm of breakaway torque. So if the nut if done up to about 300+ it may take a second or 2. Where as good air gun will start at 500nm and go well above 1000 depending on brand.
I took mine off the other day using a shit hot cordless rattle gun and t only took about 2 secs and that was factory tightened.
Chariot of Fury 50cc 2stroke Race bike Team Gumby in red SAM & SRT Survived
Don't try to use the square section, whatever you do. It'll just collapse and stuff the nut completely. The bit I could never understand is why the hex section has rounded corners from new.
Yep, all the above in particular the deep socket Kev posted..
Before I got a "shit hot" rattle gun, I use to have the misses on the bike standing on the rear brake, a block of timber thru the rear wheel and use breaker bar. Busted a couple of cheap sockets doing that too...
Dave
2010 Z1000
ex bikes
05 ZX-10R Race Bike - No.77
95 ZXR750R M Race Bike - No. 75
98 ZX9R Race Bike - No. 000
zx6r, zx7r, GPX750, GPX500, lots of KX's.
I ride way too fast to worry about cholesterol