Anyone have a M12x1.5 thread repair kit?

[MiG]

It turns out that my KTM has a stripped and cross threaded magnetic sump plug thread. I don't know what makes people think that you should turn harder when a bolt doesn't want to go in. I tried to put it back straight(er) and messed it up more and now it has a very slow leak.

Since the thread repair kits are expensive and you usually get 5 or 6 inserts with them, I was wondering if anyone has a M12x1.5 kit with at least one insert left? I will chip in for the price of the kit or buy it for a reduced price.

Alternatively, does anyone know if I can get the repair done by someone at a reasonable price (<$50?) with the engine in the bike?

Cheers.

[Smitty]

ring some of the local bikes shops (like those in the strip on the highway)
and ask them if they can do it ...and how much

I had Brighton Kwaka (when owned by Ken) do a helicoil repair on an alloy mower head
plug thread - $25 (mind you that was a few years ago now... )

[mike-s]

there are local distributors, just check the ca.t & dog and call and find out how much it'll cost. possibly be the same or cheaper than the cost of getting a shop to do it.

[Slow and wobbly]

Tight arse, cheap bastard way would be to use teflon tape and a fibre washer. Its only a sump plug.
Don't try this at work though

[Smitty]

Tight arse, cheap bastard way would be to use teflon tape and a fibre washer. Its only a sump plug.
Don't try this at work though

a bananas in the diff/gearbox jobbie....

[Slow and wobbly]

Tight arse, cheap bastard way would be to use teflon tape and a fibre washer. Its only a sump plug.
Don't try this at work though

a bananas in the diff/gearbox jobbie....

Oh and coke cans are great for sleeving big end shell bearings.

[Smitty]

Tight arse, cheap bastard way would be to use teflon tape and a fibre washer. Its only a sump plug.
Don't try this at work though

a bananas in the diff/gearbox jobbie....

Oh and coke cans are great for sleeving big end shell bearings.

...shooosh S&W
ya givin away too many trade sekrets

[MiG]

Oh and coke cans are great for sleeving big end shell bearings.

LOL, I made a "racing" airbox cover for the KTM out of steel sheet from a broken laser printer so I'm not averse to slightly unusual solutions, but I'd have to experiment on a cheap bike before messing around with jury rigging big end bearings. Saved myself $99 by not buying the KTM racing cover.

Thanks for the suggestions. I'll ring Brighton Kwaka and Bikes and Bits tomorrow.

[IrishPete]

Why not just tap/thread the hole to fit a larger bolt?

[MiG]

I'd like to keep the stock magnetic plug and by the time I buy such a large drill bit, tap and plug it won't be a cheap option either.

[Sulli]

Buy a metric thread file and a bit of patience and effort should see it right

[timmyrocks]

tap a 14mm thread, no need for a drill (the pilot holes a 12mm drill ) get a 14mm bolt, drill a recess and glue in a small magnet

[MiG]

tap a 14mm thread, no need for a drill (the pilot holes a 12mm drill ) get a 14mm bolt, drill a recess and glue in a small magnet

I never considered just ramming a 14 mm bolt in. Seems a bit crude for a 5 year old bike. But I'll consider it for my 20 yo TZR if the need arises. The nastiest thing is that the hole is cross threaded so the bolt sits at an angle. If I were to follow the angled hole with the tap it would still leak due to not seating properly.

Bought a Recoil kit today for $82, so if anyone has a stuffed M12x1.5 thread, give me a yell. The kit was the same price as getting dealers to do it, so I'd rather have the capability to do it again and acquire more tools.

Stay tuned for fail

[timmyrocks]

lolz, you shloud be ok, how thick is the metal your recoiling?

[mike-s]

You doing this engine in (then flush it out with the recently removed oil), engine out, engine out and apart?
if engine in, consider getting a wooden block and cut it the right length so that the drill bit only ever just totally clears the inside lip of the sump, even when you press the drill against the sump (i.e. butt the wood against the jaw of the drill when measuring it before cutting the appropriate length).

Also remember ( im sure you dont need to be told this) you should take it easy when doing the drilling to make sure you get it dead straight from the first go.

Good luck.