GPX 250 float needles + Carb screw settings

bennyn · Post by **bennyn** » Sat Sep 23, 2006 2:11 pm

Hey guys i have the supplement for the gpx 250, yet cant see factory screw settings for the carbies? Anyone got good suggestions?

Also how much should float needles cost me for a pair (disassemblin carbs in a few hrs)

bennyn · Post by **bennyn** » Mon Sep 25, 2006 8:59 pm

ok anyways after no messages i realise it was a kind of stupid question about needle settings, given there are no screws to adjust it (from what i can see).

My float needles were fine too. Just gave it a clean up, and she runs better.

However when the bike warms up a bit (needle above cold on temp gauge) it idles near 1500, then drops to 1000, then stalls...

I havent balanced my carbs yet, but can any one suggest what would cause it to cut out. If i dont sit there jabbing at the throttle (revving it to bout 3000) then it eventually stalls. What is it?

Someone Please?!

mike-s · Post by **mike-s** » Mon Sep 25, 2006 10:42 pm

if its not a synch issue, either 1) your float levels are out or 2) your idle jet setting is wrong on one of the carbies.

I'd suggest try resetting your idle jet setting to 2.5 turns out (i believe that's the standard setting), increasing it to three turns out if you've got an aftermarket pipe on it.

Also it'd pay to ensure the float levels are the same as that affects the 1/32-1/4 throttle opening, which is most often used when cruising around.

aardvark · Post by **aardvark** » Tue Sep 26, 2006 8:29 am

Benny,

Carbies are an evil wonder of the universe. I have an RD250 which is giving me all sorts of nitemares!!

I've tried 3 different needles, two different main jets, two different needle jets and the bastard if a thing STILL doesn't run properly.

Good luck!!

bennyn · Post by **bennyn** » Tue Sep 26, 2006 9:57 am

Okay guys i really appreciate the advice...

Mike-s, when i had the carbies out, i didnt see any screws for the jets.

Do you mean physically unscrewing the main jet 2.5 turns? Otherwise an explanation of where these screw settings are, would be hugely appreciated

Johnnie5 · Post by **Johnnie5** » Tue Sep 26, 2006 11:36 am

i havent got the base manual so cant tell you where the screws are , they are going to either be on the side of the carb or underneath

I found this useful guide
http://ninja250.kingston.net/~jeb/Kawasaki Ninja 250 FAQ.pdf

but it doesnt mention the screws

either way

do not unscrew your main jets

you need to find the screw

settings

mix screw is 1 3/4 turns out
float height is 17mm +/- 2 mm

if you bike has a fair few kays on it they do get bad hot idle due to excessive engine gas blowby being pumped back into the airbox via the crankcase breather

solution is to remove the hose from the airbox and put a little filter in it and possibly into a catch can as it can blow some oil out of this hole
block off the hole in the airbox and now your engine will thank you by not having hot oily air pumped into it

bennyn · Post by **bennyn** » Wed Oct 04, 2006 8:52 pm

Yo johnny it turns out to be that blowback pipe.

Can you reccomend a filter or catchcan small enough to use on the gpx?

BladeBoy · Post by **BladeBoy** » Thu Oct 05, 2006 1:25 am

bennyn wrote:Yo johnny it turns out to be that blowback pipe.

Can you reccomend a filter or catchcan small enough to use on the gpx?

Try a small in line fuel filter, I have seen them used before as standard equipment on some bikes

mike-s · Post by **mike-s** » Thu Oct 05, 2006 10:53 am

r.e. the idle jets, they are usually on the underside of the carby, on the part that connects to the rubber manifold that bolts to the head of the bike. I still think you should check that, if thats set up correctly then you shouldnt have any trouble with the warmer air from the venting tube.

If you still want to follow the its-the-vent-pharking-it-up avenue, try a inline air filter as suggested above, but for environmental friendliness and stopping it leaking shit onyour bike and the road may i suggest you have it venting into a film canister with 4x 2mm airholes on the top on the sides (drill a hole in the lid in the centre and epoxy in from both sides a 3/32-1/4 inch tube that you connect to the re-used fuel filter, you'll just have to remember to empty it once a month or so.