okay, let's get it back on the road.
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Re: okay, let's get it back on the road.
Yeah, that's the routine I was thinking.
As for the oil, I was lucky enough to know the head honcho Castrol oil technician at the time, and I went to see him at the Castrol oil lab (fascinating place). It was his recommendation; the oil was, apparently, designed to be used in engines that were going to be stored, and if my (increasingly fading) memory is to be trusted (ahem), I remember him saying it was recommended to last ten years if just sat in an engine, but he indicated it could sit there for much, much longer.
Yes, I wish I could remember what the oil was, too.
Anyway, to another point - I'm ordering some oil filters and my memory is telling me I had a crushable copper washer under the sump bolt. Now, I'm told that's not true, but I definitely remember using one, and ordering another one after a few oil changes.
Any idea?
As for the oil, I was lucky enough to know the head honcho Castrol oil technician at the time, and I went to see him at the Castrol oil lab (fascinating place). It was his recommendation; the oil was, apparently, designed to be used in engines that were going to be stored, and if my (increasingly fading) memory is to be trusted (ahem), I remember him saying it was recommended to last ten years if just sat in an engine, but he indicated it could sit there for much, much longer.
Yes, I wish I could remember what the oil was, too.
Anyway, to another point - I'm ordering some oil filters and my memory is telling me I had a crushable copper washer under the sump bolt. Now, I'm told that's not true, but I definitely remember using one, and ordering another one after a few oil changes.
Any idea?
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Re: okay, let's get it back on the road.
I asked Castrol about the oil, and here is the reply:
"I would say to drop the oil out & re-fill with Castrol Activ 4T.
Run it for a short while (short drain interval, say 500-1000 kms) & then
drain & refill."
Checked it out on the 'net, and it's an oil designed for m/cycles, $32 for 4 litres.
"I would say to drop the oil out & re-fill with Castrol Activ 4T.
Run it for a short while (short drain interval, say 500-1000 kms) & then
drain & refill."
Checked it out on the 'net, and it's an oil designed for m/cycles, $32 for 4 litres.
- Gosling1
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Re: okay, let's get it back on the road.
Activ 4T is a good oil for older bike motors. Mineral-based, I am pretty sure it is a 10W40 weight, which works well in these bikes.
There is a washer under the sump bolt - and according to the book, you are meant to replace it every time you change the oil. That was probably put in the book by the Kawasaki spare-parts beancounters
- yeah, its meant to be replaced, but in practice rarely is - unless it is damaged. You can keep re-using old ones no worries. If there is no washer - buy a new one and hang onto it....

There is a washer under the sump bolt - and according to the book, you are meant to replace it every time you change the oil. That was probably put in the book by the Kawasaki spare-parts beancounters


".....shut the gate on this one Maxie......it's the ducks guts !!............."
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Re: okay, let's get it back on the road.
Man, I'm SURE there was a crush-able copper washer on the sump bolt...you sure?????
I don't doubt you, Gosling, as you seem well up on the Kawa's, I'm just trying to save what's left of my memory....
I don't doubt you, Gosling, as you seem well up on the Kawa's, I'm just trying to save what's left of my memory....
- Gosling1
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Re: okay, let's get it back on the road.
Some models used a big rubber O-ring which fits into a groove in the sump bolt. You may have one of these, its worth checking out.


".....shut the gate on this one Maxie......it's the ducks guts !!............."
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Re: okay, let's get it back on the road.
Mate, there is no one better than The Goz. If he doesn;t have one he can find it, if he doesn;t know (which is rare) he'll find out.paul w wrote:I don't doubt you, Gosling, as you seem well up on the Kawa's,
In all honesty, Give it another couple of years and Kawasaki Japan will be calling him to ask question. Your in safe hands
Just watch out for the talking arse

FASTER AND FASTER Until the Thrill of Speed Over Powers the Fear of Death


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Re: okay, let's get it back on the road.
Well, that confirms it - my memory is cactus...
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Re: okay, let's get it back on the road.
I asked this is another post: any know of someone who can rebuild Mulholland shocks?
If that cannot be done, suggestions for some decent shocks for the Z1000?
Just for sports touring stuff, nothing fancy (it seems almost laughable to now include the term 'sports' with the 85hp, 235kg Z!)
If that cannot be done, suggestions for some decent shocks for the Z1000?
Just for sports touring stuff, nothing fancy (it seems almost laughable to now include the term 'sports' with the 85hp, 235kg Z!)
- Gosling1
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Re: okay, let's get it back on the road.
You will spend more on getting these old shocks rebuilt, than in buying a new pair of Hagons.
Talk to Darryl at Moose Racing in Euroa (Vic) - Darryl is the aussie importer of Hagon shocks, and can actually build you a set with the correct spring rate that you need. He is a great bloke to deal with.
You can also get IKON shocks from Albury - these are the old KONI shocks, but now Made in Australia. They are more expensive than Hagons, but a lot of punters (including myself) have used KONI or IKON shocks now for 30+ years. 7610 is the correct series for a Z1000.

Talk to Darryl at Moose Racing in Euroa (Vic) - Darryl is the aussie importer of Hagon shocks, and can actually build you a set with the correct spring rate that you need. He is a great bloke to deal with.
You can also get IKON shocks from Albury - these are the old KONI shocks, but now Made in Australia. They are more expensive than Hagons, but a lot of punters (including myself) have used KONI or IKON shocks now for 30+ years. 7610 is the correct series for a Z1000.

".....shut the gate on this one Maxie......it's the ducks guts !!............."
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Re: okay, let's get it back on the road.
Booked in for the auto-electricians on the 14th.
While it's there, going to clean out the carbs, as I figure they'll have a bit of dried crud inside.
While it's there, going to clean out the carbs, as I figure they'll have a bit of dried crud inside.
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Re: okay, let's get it back on the road.
Oh, also have a set of 28mm carbs.
Got them in the late 70s, and while not rusted, the slides are stuck.
Anyone interested?
Got them in the late 70s, and while not rusted, the slides are stuck.
Anyone interested?
- Gosling1
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Re: okay, let's get it back on the road.
yes mate I would be interested in those - pm sent


".....shut the gate on this one Maxie......it's the ducks guts !!............."
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Re: okay, let's get it back on the road.
Just found this thread, great story plus I can borrow all the info
Re: electricals

Re: electricals
Stripped my old girl down on the weekend ........ electricals .......Phaaark!! Mate I feel your pain.paul w wrote:Started on the wiring so I can get the motor running...I'll spare you the pain of a photo, but think 'rat's nest' and then think 'but, I knew how all this worked twenty four years ago!'
...
06 zx10r - road
99 zx7r - trackie
77 z1000 - project
99 zx7r - trackie
77 z1000 - project
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Re: okay, let's get it back on the road.
Things have settled down (sort of) and the bike is finally at the auto-electricians.
The wiring loom I bought of ebay is for the US version, and is not the same as the one I need to replace, but the auto-elec says it's okay, so long I has a wiring diagram.
I'll be searching, but meanwhile, does anyone here have a link to a wiring diagram for a 1977 Z1000?
The wiring loom I bought of ebay is for the US version, and is not the same as the one I need to replace, but the auto-elec says it's okay, so long I has a wiring diagram.
I'll be searching, but meanwhile, does anyone here have a link to a wiring diagram for a 1977 Z1000?
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Re: okay, let's get it back on the road.
Re the wiring diagram: I found some on the 'net, but these are for the US model.
Is this the same as the Australian model, or is this the same as the European/Japan model?
Is this the same as the Australian model, or is this the same as the European/Japan model?