GPX 250 winter idling

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bNiNja
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Post by bNiNja »

Daisy wrote: I hate to put a damper on your banter, but it redlines at 14k. :P
I have a 1988 manufactured GPX (1995 complianced) with an engine rebuild earlier this year. Mine redlines at 15.5 but Kawasaki has gradually limited the redline over the years since they found that the engine wasn't getting sufficient lubrication at the higher revs.

I read that somewhere, can't remember where
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Neka79
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Post by Neka79 »

Daisy wrote:
Neka79 wrote:carn daisy..u kno not to let the facts ruin a good story... uve been here long enuf...
:oops: :oops:

I know - make it brief, make it interesting, make it up. :P
BINGO...we have a winner..tell the lady whats shes won!!
Neka
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MiG
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Post by MiG »

CaptnMooCow wrote: Why do you have the choke on while riding? What I do is I start the bike with the choke half way and gradually increase it if needed (I try not to use more choke than I need and I probably use the choke for no longer than 3-5 seconds. ) until I can use the throttle to keep the rpm between 3000-5000. I do this for 1 min and then ride off and keep the rpm around 5000 i.e. sometimes I ride in 5th gear to maintain a speed of ~60km/h. I do this until the temperature needle goes above the cold indicator.
Mine will stall if I come to a set of lights (or I'm filtering with the clutch in) without choke in the first few minutes, and that's with the warm idle set to 1600 RPM or so.
The amount of choke required reduces during the warm up period, but I like to use some for about 5 minutes.
It can ride without choke very soon, it's the idle that's the problem.
Stereo wrote:since the twin cylinder makes it fairly torqy at low revs I would think there is another problem
You reckon? Feels shit below 6k and peak torque is at 9k. I think the camshaft has a much bigger say in this matter than the number of cylinders...
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abvc
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Post by abvc »

that's weird man.
i have 2007 gpx. choke only need on start up after 1 min i can turn it off and bike will still run. best idle is around 1300 +-
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