G'day
Got myself a new set of venhill brakelines for my 2008 zx10r.
Has any got any suggestions on what type of brake fluid I should use..?
I've been told by a few people if I was to use the wrong brake fluid it could eat away at brakelines or master cylinder..!
new venhill brakelines
-
Wattie
- VIP MEMBER
- Posts: 10041
- Joined: Mon Oct 31, 2005 12:23 pm
- Bike: ZX10R
- State: New South Wales
- Location: Bligh Park
Re: new venhill brakelines
tell em their dreamin.
get Motul, Castrol, Penrite or any other major brand. make sure its Dot4 or higher.
get Motul, Castrol, Penrite or any other major brand. make sure its Dot4 or higher.
Wattie #55
ZX10R "The Crim"
ZX10R "Gumby"
Proudly Supported by Allfixed Automotive 9634 1455
sam & srt, survived
RGM, left a message
ZX10R "The Crim"
ZX10R "Gumby"
Proudly Supported by Allfixed Automotive 9634 1455
sam & srt, survived
RGM, left a message
-
Blurr
- Apprentice Post Whore :-)
- Posts: 7246
- Joined: Wed Apr 02, 2008 10:31 pm
- Bike: ZX10R
- State: New South Wales
- Location: Stockton
new venhill brakelines
First time I have heard that one.
Chariot of Fury 50cc 2stroke Race bike
Team Gumby in red
SAM & SRT Survived
Team Gumby in red
SAM & SRT Survived
Re: new venhill brakelines
Here you go, all you need to know. This topic has always been a hot one, D.O.T. 3 brake fluid versus D.O.T. 4, versus D.O.T. 5. Which is best? Isn't D.O.T. 5 the hot set-up? Why are there different kinds to begin with, and what are the pros and cons of each? Let's explore all that, and hopefully in the process eliminate the hype and misinformation that often surrounds this subject.
Air? From Where?
Let's begin at the beginning. A brake system is not a sealed system. A physics principle known as Boyle's Law in a round-about way establishes that a fluid cannot leave a container unless air can follow it. If the vent in your gas tank plugs up, for example, fuel will eventually stop flowing. Similarly, a brake system is, like a fuel tank, vented to atmosphere, usually at its highest point, the reservoir. (Ever notice that little notch?) Thus a brake system has continuous access to air.
The Problem with Moisture
But that means it also has continuous access to moisture, for air naturally has moisture in it, to varying degrees. All brake systems have moisture in them, all the time, and this is unavoidable. There are two inherent difficulties with this that brake system designers must contend with. First, as moisture increases in the brake fluid, it tends to collect around the system's moving parts, particularly the pistons. If this moisture is allowed to increase, the pistons and surrounding areas will begin corroding and brake function will be seriously impaired. Corrosion is a big deal in brake systems, as anyone who has restored a vintage vehicle will attest. Nasty.
The other problem with this continuous exposure to moisture is that moisture makes the brake fluid more compressible. You don't want any compressibility in a brake system. For every millimeter that the lever or pedal moves, you expect a proportionate movement of the brake pads against the disc. If you don't have that, you have an unreliable and dangerous brake system. Unfortunately, brake fluid becomes more compressible as it increases in water content. Water contains hydrogen, and in response to heat cycles the brake fluid soon has air mixed into it as well as moisture.
Consumer-Friendly Brake Fluid
Brake system designers consider these issues thoroughly. To reduce the effect of both corrosion and compressibility, virtually all vehicle manufacturers use and specify a kind of brake fluid that is designed to not only accept significant amounts of moisture, but even to neutralize it by dispersing this moisture evenly throughout the system, thus preventing its concentration in any one area. It's actually kind of amazing what brake fluid does, when you think about it.
What Does the D.O.T. Rating Mean?
Eventually, however, because of this designed-in moisture management, the fluid gets overloaded and must be replaced. So important is this fluid replacement point that vehicle manufacturers have traditionally called for a maximum of a two year period of use of the fluid. By that time, the fluid will have started to turn golden, then light brown, indicating that it has absorbed progressively more moisture. Eventually, if left unchanged beyond the recommended service interval, the fluid will become dark brown, indicating high amounts of water absorption and thus badly contaminated fluid.
The importance of monitoring brake fluid's water content is further demonstrated by the fact that in the U.S., a brake fluid's most important classification is determined by the Department of Transportation, an arm of the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration. The D.O.T.'s rating communicates how contaminated with water the fluid can be and still work properly. In essence, how consumer-friendly it is. This is where the numbers 3, 4, and 5 actually come from. The D.O.T.'s rating focuses on the compressibility issue, and measures a brake fluid's ability to resist boiling into a very compressible gas even when new. This of course reflects upon its compressibility over time as well, after it has aborbed moisture and become incrementally more compressible. This is the fluid's so-called boiling point, which for most brake fluids centers around nearly 500 degrees Fahrenheit when new, and rapidly decreases with water content.
Incidentally, D.O.T. 3 brake fluid is for all practical purposes obsolete. D.O.T. 4, a rating that came about in response to the emergence of sintered metal brake pads during the early 1980s, has replaced it, being still a glycol fluid but with a slightly higher boiling point. Glycol brake fluid containers now are labeled "D.O.T. 3/4," presumably to eliminate confusion, as the two fluids are nearly the same. However, this seems to have merely raised more questions in most people's minds. The short of it is, if using purely organic (almost exclusively aftermarket, and usually, racing) brake pads, D.O.T. 3 will suffice. Otherwise, use D.O.T. 4.
Glycol Brake Fluids
Virtually all vehicle manufacturers specify one kind of brake fluid, whose base is alcohol. As we have already explored, this eminently ubiquitous alcohol (actually glycol) brake fluid is suited to the realities of vehicle ownership. It neutralizes moisture, turns color in direct proportion to moisture content, disperses moisture so that it doesn't concentrate, and resists heat related degradation that leads eventually to increased compressibility. Glycol brake fluid is clearly extremely forgiving, maintenance-wise. In fact, vehicle manufacturers use it because they are quite aware that the average owner will never change his brake fluid, let alone do so at the recommended maximum two-year intervals!
There are disadvantages to glycol brake fluid however. For one thing, the very attribute that enables it to accept moisture actually causes it to attract moisture, as any alcohol product will. For this reason, brake fluid suppliers recommend that only small amounts be kept on hand, and that a tight seal be kept on any unused fluid. (In the old days, it used to be available only in metal cans.) Another disadvantage, and a significant one, is that glycol fluid is chemically caustic, meaning that it damages other materials. It effortlessly removes paint and does strange things to plastic. (Even after it is wiped off, glycol fluid causes catalytic embrittlement, a chemical reaction on the molecular level that leads quickly to deep cracks. The ABS plastic used in motorcycle bodywork is especially susceptible.)
Silicone Brake Fluids
In years past, all brake fluids were glycol. Then D.O.T. 5, a silicone fluid having a higher temperature rating, emerged, initially to meet the higher boiling point requirements of racing use. (Race car brake systems include oil-cooler-like heat exchangers and ceramic pads.) Silicone fluid was able to withstand the most heat of any brake fluid, so it earned a reputation as a racing brake fluid. However, silicone brake fluid has properties very different from glycol fluid, and has its own pros and cons. On the advantage side, silicone fluid will not harm paint or plastic, and does not aggressively attract additional moisture as glycol fluid does. On the disadvantage side however, silicone fluid aerates easily. Harley-Davison, one of the sole current OEM users of silicone fluid, warns buyers to let the fluid sit at least an hour before using it. The trip home in the saddlebag is enough to aerate silicone brake fluid until it looks like a freshly poured soft drink. Silicone fluid is also slightly more compressible than glycol fluid, does not change color to tip the user to its moisture content, and worst of all, neither accepts or disperses moisture, making systems using it more corrosion prone, and requiring much more frequent fluid changes. Silicone brake fluid also lacks glycol fluid's naturally occuring lubricity, making it incompatible with the mechanical valving in some antilock braking systems.
A third brake fluid category could be included, if we were to consider bicycles. Their hydraulic brake systems use mineral oil, that is, baby oil. About the same consistency as glycol fluid, mineral oil is still not the best thing around paint, but in most other respects it is fairly non-corrosive. Like silicone fluid however, it does not deal well with moisture.
Which is Best?
As you may have noticed by now, instead of looking at brake fluid as D.O.T. 3/4 versus D.O.T. 5, we should see the issue as glycol versus silicone. This represents the larger division of type, and comparing D.O.T. ratings just isn't significant, especially since D.O.T. 5 fluids are now available in glycol formulation. Glycol fluids have improved until they now meet D.O.T. 5 standards. D.O.T. 5.1 for example, is a glycol fluid designed for certain ABS systems having mechanically cycling proportion valves. So now we have D.O.T. 3, 4, 5, and 5.1, with all but the 5 designation being glycol, while the 5 is silicone.
The real way to compare brake fluids is by deciding what is important to you. Is silicone fluid's safety around paint and plastic more important than yearly changes and a softer action? Its higher boiling point, the reason for its development and at one time its strong suit, is now academic, since D.O.T. 5 glycol (5.1) fluids are now widely available. Glycol fluid therefore is, for most of us, the better brake fluid, and the best just may be the 5.1, if the highest boiling point, which is really a moisture tolerance measurement, matters.
On the practical side, beware that glycol and silicone brake fluids are hugely incompatible with each other. Mixing even small amounts will create a sludge that looks amazingly like Italian salad dressing and is about as effective as a brake fluid -- meaning, not. Of further consideration is that, in some cases, the hardware designed for one fluid will not accept the other. Brake caliper and master cylinder seals, hoses, and other parts won't always work correctly when the type of fluid is changed.
Summary
Over the years, the debate has continued as to which is the best fluid. Racers and custom builders have traditionally promoted silicone fluid, and many street riders have assumed this meant it was good for them also. However, silicone is the highest-maintenence of all brake fluids, one that demands frequent attention. While this is acceptable in a race setting, it is less so in everyday commuting. The plain fact remains that vehicle manufacturers use glycol fluid because, with its being designed for the average consumer, it poses the least liability to them. In reality, the answer to the usage question is simple -- the brake fluid type the manufacturer recommends is the best. In most cases this will be the glycol fluid, the one that is designed to meet all of your brake system's demands and do so with very little fuss.
Air? From Where?
Let's begin at the beginning. A brake system is not a sealed system. A physics principle known as Boyle's Law in a round-about way establishes that a fluid cannot leave a container unless air can follow it. If the vent in your gas tank plugs up, for example, fuel will eventually stop flowing. Similarly, a brake system is, like a fuel tank, vented to atmosphere, usually at its highest point, the reservoir. (Ever notice that little notch?) Thus a brake system has continuous access to air.
The Problem with Moisture
But that means it also has continuous access to moisture, for air naturally has moisture in it, to varying degrees. All brake systems have moisture in them, all the time, and this is unavoidable. There are two inherent difficulties with this that brake system designers must contend with. First, as moisture increases in the brake fluid, it tends to collect around the system's moving parts, particularly the pistons. If this moisture is allowed to increase, the pistons and surrounding areas will begin corroding and brake function will be seriously impaired. Corrosion is a big deal in brake systems, as anyone who has restored a vintage vehicle will attest. Nasty.
The other problem with this continuous exposure to moisture is that moisture makes the brake fluid more compressible. You don't want any compressibility in a brake system. For every millimeter that the lever or pedal moves, you expect a proportionate movement of the brake pads against the disc. If you don't have that, you have an unreliable and dangerous brake system. Unfortunately, brake fluid becomes more compressible as it increases in water content. Water contains hydrogen, and in response to heat cycles the brake fluid soon has air mixed into it as well as moisture.
Consumer-Friendly Brake Fluid
Brake system designers consider these issues thoroughly. To reduce the effect of both corrosion and compressibility, virtually all vehicle manufacturers use and specify a kind of brake fluid that is designed to not only accept significant amounts of moisture, but even to neutralize it by dispersing this moisture evenly throughout the system, thus preventing its concentration in any one area. It's actually kind of amazing what brake fluid does, when you think about it.
What Does the D.O.T. Rating Mean?
Eventually, however, because of this designed-in moisture management, the fluid gets overloaded and must be replaced. So important is this fluid replacement point that vehicle manufacturers have traditionally called for a maximum of a two year period of use of the fluid. By that time, the fluid will have started to turn golden, then light brown, indicating that it has absorbed progressively more moisture. Eventually, if left unchanged beyond the recommended service interval, the fluid will become dark brown, indicating high amounts of water absorption and thus badly contaminated fluid.
The importance of monitoring brake fluid's water content is further demonstrated by the fact that in the U.S., a brake fluid's most important classification is determined by the Department of Transportation, an arm of the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration. The D.O.T.'s rating communicates how contaminated with water the fluid can be and still work properly. In essence, how consumer-friendly it is. This is where the numbers 3, 4, and 5 actually come from. The D.O.T.'s rating focuses on the compressibility issue, and measures a brake fluid's ability to resist boiling into a very compressible gas even when new. This of course reflects upon its compressibility over time as well, after it has aborbed moisture and become incrementally more compressible. This is the fluid's so-called boiling point, which for most brake fluids centers around nearly 500 degrees Fahrenheit when new, and rapidly decreases with water content.
Incidentally, D.O.T. 3 brake fluid is for all practical purposes obsolete. D.O.T. 4, a rating that came about in response to the emergence of sintered metal brake pads during the early 1980s, has replaced it, being still a glycol fluid but with a slightly higher boiling point. Glycol brake fluid containers now are labeled "D.O.T. 3/4," presumably to eliminate confusion, as the two fluids are nearly the same. However, this seems to have merely raised more questions in most people's minds. The short of it is, if using purely organic (almost exclusively aftermarket, and usually, racing) brake pads, D.O.T. 3 will suffice. Otherwise, use D.O.T. 4.
Glycol Brake Fluids
Virtually all vehicle manufacturers specify one kind of brake fluid, whose base is alcohol. As we have already explored, this eminently ubiquitous alcohol (actually glycol) brake fluid is suited to the realities of vehicle ownership. It neutralizes moisture, turns color in direct proportion to moisture content, disperses moisture so that it doesn't concentrate, and resists heat related degradation that leads eventually to increased compressibility. Glycol brake fluid is clearly extremely forgiving, maintenance-wise. In fact, vehicle manufacturers use it because they are quite aware that the average owner will never change his brake fluid, let alone do so at the recommended maximum two-year intervals!
There are disadvantages to glycol brake fluid however. For one thing, the very attribute that enables it to accept moisture actually causes it to attract moisture, as any alcohol product will. For this reason, brake fluid suppliers recommend that only small amounts be kept on hand, and that a tight seal be kept on any unused fluid. (In the old days, it used to be available only in metal cans.) Another disadvantage, and a significant one, is that glycol fluid is chemically caustic, meaning that it damages other materials. It effortlessly removes paint and does strange things to plastic. (Even after it is wiped off, glycol fluid causes catalytic embrittlement, a chemical reaction on the molecular level that leads quickly to deep cracks. The ABS plastic used in motorcycle bodywork is especially susceptible.)
Silicone Brake Fluids
In years past, all brake fluids were glycol. Then D.O.T. 5, a silicone fluid having a higher temperature rating, emerged, initially to meet the higher boiling point requirements of racing use. (Race car brake systems include oil-cooler-like heat exchangers and ceramic pads.) Silicone fluid was able to withstand the most heat of any brake fluid, so it earned a reputation as a racing brake fluid. However, silicone brake fluid has properties very different from glycol fluid, and has its own pros and cons. On the advantage side, silicone fluid will not harm paint or plastic, and does not aggressively attract additional moisture as glycol fluid does. On the disadvantage side however, silicone fluid aerates easily. Harley-Davison, one of the sole current OEM users of silicone fluid, warns buyers to let the fluid sit at least an hour before using it. The trip home in the saddlebag is enough to aerate silicone brake fluid until it looks like a freshly poured soft drink. Silicone fluid is also slightly more compressible than glycol fluid, does not change color to tip the user to its moisture content, and worst of all, neither accepts or disperses moisture, making systems using it more corrosion prone, and requiring much more frequent fluid changes. Silicone brake fluid also lacks glycol fluid's naturally occuring lubricity, making it incompatible with the mechanical valving in some antilock braking systems.
A third brake fluid category could be included, if we were to consider bicycles. Their hydraulic brake systems use mineral oil, that is, baby oil. About the same consistency as glycol fluid, mineral oil is still not the best thing around paint, but in most other respects it is fairly non-corrosive. Like silicone fluid however, it does not deal well with moisture.
Which is Best?
As you may have noticed by now, instead of looking at brake fluid as D.O.T. 3/4 versus D.O.T. 5, we should see the issue as glycol versus silicone. This represents the larger division of type, and comparing D.O.T. ratings just isn't significant, especially since D.O.T. 5 fluids are now available in glycol formulation. Glycol fluids have improved until they now meet D.O.T. 5 standards. D.O.T. 5.1 for example, is a glycol fluid designed for certain ABS systems having mechanically cycling proportion valves. So now we have D.O.T. 3, 4, 5, and 5.1, with all but the 5 designation being glycol, while the 5 is silicone.
The real way to compare brake fluids is by deciding what is important to you. Is silicone fluid's safety around paint and plastic more important than yearly changes and a softer action? Its higher boiling point, the reason for its development and at one time its strong suit, is now academic, since D.O.T. 5 glycol (5.1) fluids are now widely available. Glycol fluid therefore is, for most of us, the better brake fluid, and the best just may be the 5.1, if the highest boiling point, which is really a moisture tolerance measurement, matters.
On the practical side, beware that glycol and silicone brake fluids are hugely incompatible with each other. Mixing even small amounts will create a sludge that looks amazingly like Italian salad dressing and is about as effective as a brake fluid -- meaning, not. Of further consideration is that, in some cases, the hardware designed for one fluid will not accept the other. Brake caliper and master cylinder seals, hoses, and other parts won't always work correctly when the type of fluid is changed.
Summary
Over the years, the debate has continued as to which is the best fluid. Racers and custom builders have traditionally promoted silicone fluid, and many street riders have assumed this meant it was good for them also. However, silicone is the highest-maintenence of all brake fluids, one that demands frequent attention. While this is acceptable in a race setting, it is less so in everyday commuting. The plain fact remains that vehicle manufacturers use glycol fluid because, with its being designed for the average consumer, it poses the least liability to them. In reality, the answer to the usage question is simple -- the brake fluid type the manufacturer recommends is the best. In most cases this will be the glycol fluid, the one that is designed to meet all of your brake system's demands and do so with very little fuss.
2005 BMW R1200RT
2012 ZX6R
2012 ZX6R
-
Gosling1
- Team Donut
- Posts: 13826
- Joined: Mon Jun 20, 2005 9:30 pm
- Bike: ZX2R
- State: New South Wales
- Location: Anarchy Road
- Contact:
Re: new venhill brakelines
what a load of bollocks.zx102008 wrote:......I've been told by a few people if I was to use the wrong brake fluid it could eat away at brakelines or master cylinder..!.....
Use any good-quality Dot5.1 fluid. Flush out all the old fluid first, don't mix fluids at all.
BTW that is a great explanation from Loubre, and covers all the important issues.
".....shut the gate on this one Maxie......it's the ducks guts !!............."
-
red_dave
- Team Kuda
- Posts: 7973
- Joined: Thu Oct 07, 2004 12:47 pm
- Bike: ZX6R
- State: Queensland
- Location: Dodgy BrisVegas
- Contact:
Re: new venhill brakelines
Speaking of - http://www.ksrc-au.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=38428Gosling1 wrote:what a load of bollocks.
-
zx102008
- Warming up
- Posts: 61
- Joined: Tue Aug 09, 2011 6:29 pm
- Bike: ZX10R
- State: Victoria
- Location: Croydon
Re: new venhill brakelines
G'day BORN GREEN"
I've read a couple of your earlier posts on silicone based brake fluid you seem to have a wide knowledge about different types of brake fluid.
Since you sound like you've been around bikes most of your life, got any suggestions..?
I've read a couple of your earlier posts on silicone based brake fluid you seem to have a wide knowledge about different types of brake fluid.
Since you sound like you've been around bikes most of your life, got any suggestions..?
-
born green
- KSRC Contributor
- Posts: 1491
- Joined: Sun Aug 07, 2011 6:59 am
- Bike: ZX10R
- State: Victoria
- Location: blind bight vic
Re: new venhill brakelines
Just go down to ur nearest supercheap or autobarn and grab the cheapest u can find, or use the bottle u prob got sittin in the shed for a couple of years...zx102008 wrote:G'day BORN GREEN"
I've read a couple of your earlier posts on silicone based brake fluid you seem to have a wide knowledge about different types of brake fluid.
Since you sound like you've been around bikes most of your life, got any suggestions..?
that will work just fine...No good askin me, i dont ride fast enough to use brakes
O and ive been told those brakelines are not adr compliant and not road legal... and here in vic u will get pinged for anything... even oem rear guards
96 ZX7R roady
07 ZX10R tracky. to many mods to list here!
95 tickford XR6,
SO MANY KAWASAKI'S SO LITTLE TIME
07 ZX10R tracky. to many mods to list here!
95 tickford XR6,
SO MANY KAWASAKI'S SO LITTLE TIME
-
s man
- KSRC Regular
- Posts: 809
- Joined: Sun Mar 14, 2010 7:58 am
- Bike: Z1000
- State: New South Wales
- Location: Lake Mac NSW
Re: new venhill brakelines
I used Venhill lines on my race bike for ages, loved them! Dont know about the ADR thing, I suppose anything other then manufactor lines wouldnt pass ADRs, because they have never been put through the ADR testing prosess??
ʎɐqǝ uo pɹɐoqʎǝʞ ɐ ʎnq ı ǝɯıʇ ʇsɐן ǝɥʇ sı sıɥʇ
-
6maniac
- KSRC Addict
- Posts: 4832
- Joined: Thu Oct 18, 2007 7:26 pm
- Bike: Z750
- State: New South Wales
- Location: Hawkesbury
Re: new venhill brakelines
http://www.kenma.com.au/brake_hoses.htmlborn green wrote:
O and ive been told those brakelines are not adr compliant and not road legal...
Apparently they are .....
I've spent over 40 years of my life riding bikes .... the rest of it, I wasted ..
If it's got wheels or tits, it's gonna give you trouble !
HCST #2
Team Black '09 ..... R.I.P. - 2011.
Back in Black....2011.
If it's got wheels or tits, it's gonna give you trouble !
HCST #2
Team Black '09 ..... R.I.P. - 2011.
Back in Black....2011.
-
born green
- KSRC Contributor
- Posts: 1491
- Joined: Sun Aug 07, 2011 6:59 am
- Bike: ZX10R
- State: Victoria
- Location: blind bight vic
Re: new venhill brakelines
6maniac wrote:http://www.kenma.com.au/brake_hoses.htmlborn green wrote:
O and ive been told those brakelines are not adr compliant and not road legal...
Apparently they are .....
Was takin the piss.. i know there adr compliant, we checked before i fitted a set to a mates bike some time ago..
Someone on here said they wernt.. thats all..
But having said that, their a very well made set of brake lines, and he got them a lot cheaper than hells, which is what i susgested he get, than he turned up home with the venhills, and i must say i was very impressed with their quality...
And we used motul RBF 600 brake fluid
96 ZX7R roady
07 ZX10R tracky. to many mods to list here!
95 tickford XR6,
SO MANY KAWASAKI'S SO LITTLE TIME
07 ZX10R tracky. to many mods to list here!
95 tickford XR6,
SO MANY KAWASAKI'S SO LITTLE TIME
-
s man
- KSRC Regular
- Posts: 809
- Joined: Sun Mar 14, 2010 7:58 am
- Bike: Z1000
- State: New South Wales
- Location: Lake Mac NSW
Re: new venhill brakelines
The thing I liked about the Venhill lines, is you can turn the banjo fittings to what ever angle you need to make them fit..++ i say
ʎɐqǝ uo pɹɐoqʎǝʞ ɐ ʎnq ı ǝɯıʇ ʇsɐן ǝɥʇ sı sıɥʇ
-
6maniac
- KSRC Addict
- Posts: 4832
- Joined: Thu Oct 18, 2007 7:26 pm
- Bike: Z750
- State: New South Wales
- Location: Hawkesbury
Re: new venhill brakelines
Next time you "take the piss" at the expense of a newbie ( zx102008 has 8 posts - you have over 1000 ) , be kind enough to let them know that ....born green wrote:6maniac wrote:http://www.kenma.com.au/brake_hoses.htmlborn green wrote:
O and ive been told those brakelines are not adr compliant and not road legal...
Apparently they are .....
Was taking the piss.. i know there adr compliant, we checked before i fitted a set to a mates bike some time ago..
Someone on here said they wernt.. thats all..
But having said that, their a very well made set of brake lines, and he got them a lot cheaper than hells, which is what i susgested he get, than he turned up home with the venhills, and i must say i was very impressed with their quality...
I've spent over 40 years of my life riding bikes .... the rest of it, I wasted ..
If it's got wheels or tits, it's gonna give you trouble !
HCST #2
Team Black '09 ..... R.I.P. - 2011.
Back in Black....2011.
If it's got wheels or tits, it's gonna give you trouble !
HCST #2
Team Black '09 ..... R.I.P. - 2011.
Back in Black....2011.
-
born green
- KSRC Contributor
- Posts: 1491
- Joined: Sun Aug 07, 2011 6:59 am
- Bike: ZX10R
- State: Victoria
- Location: blind bight vic
Re: new venhill brakelines
Was taking the piss at who said they wernt road legal, simple, not having a go at the guy who bought them..
These brake lines have been brought up before... remember the worth doin thread
im sure hes not stressed, as i had PM him about their qualty and been ADR compliant, along with some advice on fitting them, as their a flange and nut type, and it pays to get them right. and as the post before this said, in some ways there better as u can set them up with no twist at all, so i sent a PM with all the detais on how to do, and some idea's on which brake fluid,
Last time i put in up, it went to shit as we all know.... hence the PMs now
These brake lines have been brought up before... remember the worth doin thread
im sure hes not stressed, as i had PM him about their qualty and been ADR compliant, along with some advice on fitting them, as their a flange and nut type, and it pays to get them right. and as the post before this said, in some ways there better as u can set them up with no twist at all, so i sent a PM with all the detais on how to do, and some idea's on which brake fluid,
Last time i put in up, it went to shit as we all know.... hence the PMs now
96 ZX7R roady
07 ZX10R tracky. to many mods to list here!
95 tickford XR6,
SO MANY KAWASAKI'S SO LITTLE TIME
07 ZX10R tracky. to many mods to list here!
95 tickford XR6,
SO MANY KAWASAKI'S SO LITTLE TIME