help! have bike but no keys!!!

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mrmina
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Post by mrmina »

yes hotwire it with a switch
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Post by MunkeeGrlZX6R »

Mate if your interested my fellas got the whole ignition system off my old zx6r with the key... thrilling I know.... also he has the pillion seat too if you are interested??

mailto:rkoderz@hotmail.com

cheers! Lani
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Post by Lucas »

Mate i'd get a key cut for it ..... make a couple of keys
then use a switch on the race bike and sell the ignition on ebay
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Post by christianzx6 »

just wondering if you had any luck hotwiring it, i have a zx6r J1 (thats a 2000 model), and i have an alarm system with remote ignition. I cant seem to get the remote ignition to work, i've hooked up a relay that i thought would emulate the barrel conditions with the key in, but its not working. The ignition circuit has 3 wires, a white +12v, a brown which gets shorted to white when you turn the key, and a grey which i measured 200ohm resistance between grey and brown/white (either cos they got shorted). This is what happens when i have the barrel unplugged from the rest of the bike, when its plugged in, it behaves completely differently! (no short between the white and brown, it goes open circuit!) I dont understand that at all, im guessing somewhere else along the circuit something happens. That shouldnt matter to me though, if i can recreate the barrel conditions exactly. I tried just using a resistor, and its not working, i dont think the value of the resistance is vital, maybe there is some kind of circuit inside the barrel? my multimeter is pretty good, and there is no pulsing coming down the grey wire. Im getting a bit frustrated at the dead end, because the wiring diagram makes the barrel look like a simple switch.

I realise that posting a reply to this could make it easier for someone to hotwire a zx6r, so if you can help, please just PM me.
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Post by BladeBoy »

Sounds like the barrel has a semiconductor relay circuit inside that activates when powered changing it from closed circuit to open circuit, food for thought? the ECU may not be that eazy to beat.
PS. The multimeter you are using is it analogue or digital?
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Post by christianzx6 »

the multimeter is digital, but has an analogue bar type display along with the numerical output, this is why i know its not pulsing. Also, i have 2 barrels, cos i bought 2 bikes at auction.

As i only have a key for 1 barrel, i'm taking the other 1 apart right now, there's no relay, so im happy :twisted: im going to finish taking the key mechanism off, then see exactly what happens to all the switches and connectors, there's a pretty cool switch thing down the bottom of it, and as soon as i replicate the conditions exactly, it'll work. there's a resistor, apart from that there's just lots of wires.

still open to suggestions tho, cos i dont have it going yet!
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Post by ducati_paul »

My ZZR600 track bike just has a toggle switch up by the headlight, but one day I forgot to take my key to get into the fuel tank, I walked the pits at EC until I found another Kwaka and borrowed his key to try (I wonder if it was anyone from here?) and it opened my fuel cap! :D so before you go whacking it with a hammer and screwdriver try all your mates keys! (you have got mates haven't you? :? )
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Post by mike-s »

i remember reading something about the resistance. measure the resistor in there at the moment. Not that i need it, but i remember reading here or elsewhere from someone elses adventures that they worked out that they use a high (1% or less) accuracy resistor in the switch that was about 180-220 ohm or so, cant give specifics, but remember hearing that little clue somewhere along the way.
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Post by Woody69 »

I don't know if it's the same with the bigger bikes, but on the GPX 250 you just take off the helmet lock, and on the back it has the key code ! Once you have the key code you take it to the locksmith and they make your new keys !

Hope this helps

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Post by christianzx6 »

yeah u just gotta be accurate with the resistor, the one that was in there was only a 5% tolerance... so dosent have to be crazy accurate.

the problem was my immobiliser was kicking in whenever i pressed the keyless ignition button, dont know why that was, so i disconnected the immobilising wires and all is good. still has alarm, and i can kill the bike remotely.
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Post by Daisy »

Woody69 wrote:I don't know if it's the same with the bigger bikes, but on the GPX 250 you just take off the helmet lock, and on the back it has the key code ! Once you have the key code you take it to the locksmith and they make your new keys !

Hope this helps

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That's what you're supposed to do, but the numbers on mine didn't match the key. If he had cut one to code it wouldn't have undone even the helmet lock. Oh, and you need the key to get the helmet lock off the bike. :wink:
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Post by Woody69 »

You only need the key to get your helmet lock off, if you want to put it back on ! lol ! On the GPX 250 the lock lets your helmet hang down on the hot exhaust, NOT GOOD ! plus i don't like leaving my helmet on the bike anyway ! Imagine coming back to your bike, only to discover someone has pissed or puked in your helmet !!! you can't ride without a lid, so you'd have to wear it !

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Post by christianzx6 »

i straightup wouldnt wear it. who would. get a cab, if u cant leave the bike there, call a mate who rides and get their helmet. total worst case scenario, ride home without one, just dont get caught.
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Post by varden »

I ended up running a resistor in the ign circuit to get the bikes ecu to detect that the key was there, it was a 100ohm resistor with a specific wattage and tolerance to get the bike to work, i tried a range of other resistors rated at 100 ohms but no go.

But now its all good.

No keys needed!

Pull the back of the ign barrel and see if there is a resistor there, if so take it to radio shack and get em to identify and supply you one.
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Post by mike-s »

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