u other brothers cant deny
when a girl walks in with an itty bitty waist and a
round thing in ur face u get sprung,
wanna pull up tuff
cos u notice that butts not stuffed,
even the jeans shes wearing, im hooked and i can stop staring...
im actually old enuf to remeber that being released...1990 i reckon..sir mix -a -lot.... didnt do much after it tho
RedRoo wrote:
My current 94 D series is an old pig with 140,000k's without head coming off until now, (bent valves doing 3rd gear clutchies today). Cams are pitted and noisy but still work fine. most common prob with the ZZR11 is doing the no3 big end which had happened to my 97 (mainly from high speed wheelies) but fixed under warranty with 87'000k's on clock... ZZr mill is (if serviced well) good for a couple of hundred thou, have several mates with 96 mods from new that have done those figures and totally thrashed all their lives. ZZR will have a bit of oil burn like all kwakas when thrashed shitless but not aware of any other genuine common fault otherwise.. prob the most fun reliable and forgiving bike i've ever abused.
Set up right and ridden hard has no probs dusting off most things out there
would have no issue buying very high mileage one again 80k-100k plus no probs bullet proof suckers unless rev limiter does not work...hmmmm, dont use straight synthetic oil though but mineral /synthetic oil, they like it better! makes no diff if its early version of D series or last, other than a clock and diff paint almost zero difference in them.
No.3 Big end is supposedly a clearance issue with the end float on the rod. Haven't had trouble but a lot of guys on Big Bike World have, and that seems to be the consensus. Nothing you can do about it unless it happens (high speed wheelies wouldn't help). Cam pitting is more an issue with poor servicing practices, if you change the oil regularly and don't use the cheap stuff from Dirtcheap then it isn't a problem. Sidestand mounting bolts come loose (bit tricky to tighten but not insurmountable). Centrestand tang breaks (scared the shit out of me when it happened). Camchain tensioners wear out, as do starter chain tensioners. Forks are average but fixable. Shock is below average and should be hurled as far as your arm will allow and replaced with something decent (currently waiting for fully adjustable Wilbers to arrive from The Fatherland). Jetting can be a bit hit and miss but won't worry most people. They do use a bit of oil but not as much as older Kwaks. Over 120000 on mine so far and still motoring (fingers crossed). Whinging aside, they are a kick arse bit of gear. Very stable and mindbendingly fast. The first time you crack the throttle and the airbox starts roaring defiance at the heavens you think you've died and gone to heaven and if you don't have any self control, that's where you'll probably end up. If you buy one with low k's and a service history you can't go too far wrong.
If a man says something, and there is no woman there to hear him, is he still wrong?
Sorry to revive an old thread, but I thought I'd throw it out there that you need to keep the oil up to these big girls. Apparently they suffer from starvation to Nos.3 & 4. I got caught out and did the impossible; I broke a ZZR 1100 engine. She kicked a leg out of bed, costing me $2500 for another engine.
I had come from a ZZR 250, that has an upper and lower limit on the sight glass. The 1100 only has a lower limit. The level on mine was above the lower limit but below the top of the sight glass. As soon as I mentioned this to a US mate who has one, he said, "No, you've got to keep the oil right up to her. As soon as you can see the top of the oil in the sight glass, top it up!"
Unfortunately, I learned the hard way. I hope no one else makes the same mistake.
FTR, there's a bypass kit that fixes the problem. I've only seen ones that are available in the US, but they require you to send them your oil pan so they can machine it. Does anyone know of somewhere in Oz to get this done???
I will declare an interest here in admitting this bike is owned by my brother in law. I can vouch for the fact that it has always been meticulously maintained and garaged and is probably the best example you would find: http://bikepoint.com.au/DesktopDefault. ... ikepointau
cookeetree wrote:Sorry to revive an old thread, but I thought I'd throw it out there that you need to keep the oil up to these big girls. Apparently they suffer from starvation to Nos.3 & 4. I got caught out and did the impossible; I broke a ZZR 1100 engine. She kicked a leg out of bed, costing me $2500 for another engine.
I had come from a ZZR 250, that has an upper and lower limit on the sight glass. The 1100 only has a lower limit. The level on mine was above the lower limit but below the top of the sight glass. As soon as I mentioned this to a US mate who has one, he said, "No, you've got to keep the oil right up to her. As soon as you can see the top of the oil in the sight glass, top it up!"
Unfortunately, I learned the hard way. I hope no one else makes the same mistake.
FTR, there's a bypass kit that fixes the problem. I've only seen ones that are available in the US, but they require you to send them your oil pan so they can machine it. Does anyone know of somewhere in Oz to get this done???
It happened to me, my oil wasn't quite up there either-bye bye motor and the bearing went south, the motor was still running but slowly got noisier.
daffy67 wrote:It happened to me, my oil wasn't quite up there either-bye bye motor and the bearing went south, the motor was still running but slowly got noisier.
I had no warning. Mine just went "clatter, clatter, CLATTER, CLATTER, BANG!!!" on the way to work one morning. The only up-side was that the back tyre didn't lock up. At the 100km/h I was doing, it could've been messy!
I didn't realise exactly what I'd done until I pulled the fairings off and found this nestled amongst the header pipes...
Always checking my oil before and after a good ride. Speaking of a good ride I should be out doing FarRide #7 instead of being at work. Have found a good mechanic in Brissie and service mine religiously every 6000 kms.
large wrote:...Have found a good mechanic in Brissie and service mine religiously every 6000 kms.
Who might that be, if you don't mind me asking? I do my own oil changes, but I need to find a good mechanic to do my valve clearances. Got a bit of a tick.
you've seen the photos then?
would have no issue buying very high mileage one again 80k-100k plus no probs bullet proof suckers unless rev limiter does not work...hmmmm, dont use straight synthetic oil though but mineral /synthetic oil, they like it better! makes no diff if its early version of D series or last, other than a clock and diff paint almost zero difference in them.
