Kawasaki Sportsbike Riders Club - Australia - Online Forum

Well, have some goodies en-route which require removal of bar-ends.

How the hell do you get these off?.

I don't want to strip the bolt, but it appears good old Mr. Kwaka has put so much loctite/adhesive on there that I can't get them off.

Any ideas?

A ratchet with a allen end and a hammer worked for me. You're right he doesn't skimp on the thread lock.

I pulled the ZX6 apart the other day and yep he is a fan of the locktite.

anyway i managed to do it with just the correct sized HEX key and a bad temper.

you could try putting the end of the hex key through a ring spanner to gain some extra leverage if you need it.

Hold a soldering iron onto the screws for about 5 mins a side this heat softens the locktight and you can then use a normal screwdriver to undo.

Neil

Impact wrench is your friend ! Alternatively, the correct allen socket, big breaker bar and a bit of weight or a smack to one end should do it.

A certain knowledgable man once told me a very valuable lesson on working on bikes or cars..

Leveridge is your friend, if a little leverage doesnt work, try alot of leveridge!!!

Get the allen key in the 'hole and get the biggest ring spanner you can find and use it as leveridge!

It's a phillips head screw....

Impact wrench then , or maybe invest in one of those new cordless impact screwdrivers . They are great and have seen the GMC version for around $80.00 at Bunnings .

Say Hi to Colette while ya there

Sorry, I'm in QLD - don't associate with you mexicans from down south

Go with the heat method on the screw to soften the threadlock - the big effort/leaverage may turn the chocolate soft screw into something resembling a smooth round hole.

Q: How can I remove a fastener that is "permanently" locked in?

A: The application of heat is needed to remove a fastener that can't be removed with a hand tool. Temperatures of 325F and above is needed to break down a standard anaerobic, 500F for high temperature Anaerobics. A heat gun or propane torch is commonly used to do this process, and careful disassembly should occur while parts are still hot. Once apart, and cooled, use methylene chloride (Chisel #79040) to remove cured excess material. Always wipe down the fasteners with clean up solvent to remove the wax film that Chisel leaves on the surface.

from the loctite site
http://www.loctite.com/int_henkel/locti ... 4&layout=2

Its always an education to read post from beginning to end.
Not only to learn (the other reason for a forum besides getting your point across ) but to see how many ppl READ and how many just POST for their own glory therby missing the CORRECT answer several posts back. Lord knows I am not Robinson Caruso here.

So ask your self, in a social situation, say a party, do you lsiten to other ppl to learn OR just wait so you can bless them with your brilliance??
once makes you smarter, the other just removes all doubt

And I didnt hijack the thread, the correct answer was some time back

if your offended look in the mirror

i used an impact wrench to get things going, took a few good solid whacks to get the screw moving though...

frogzx12r wrote:Its always an education to read post from beginning to end.
Not only to learn (the other reason for a forum besides getting your point across ) but to see how many ppl READ and how many just POST for their own glory therby missing the CORRECT answer several posts back. Lord knows I am not Robinson Caruso here.

So ask your self, in a social situation, say a party, do you lsiten to other ppl to learn OR just wait so you can bless them with your brilliance??
once makes you smarter, the other just removes all doubt

And I didnt hijack the thread, the correct answer was some time back

if your offended look in the mirror

So which one is "CORRECT" ?
Dare say that Sulli is the Man , but Neil has the award . Photomike has validity with the soft screw .
Now just for the rest of us that have had all doubt removed ,
What type of thread locking compound does Kaw use . Is it aerobic or anaerobic , is it "Loctite" brand and if so which number . Also how do you know if the temp has got to 375 F in the area that the compound is . Does a small soldering iron get to 500 + F . What sort of torque would be required to undo said screw when compound is softened ?
Thanking you , judge of all things CORRECT , in advance for the CORRECT answers .
Off to the mirror now

also look at the specs on the loctite website, from memory the gripping ability of the loctite at 250'C (appears to be the magic temperature according to their website) is about 20% of when it is fully cured.

I used a (dick smiths $13 pencil) blowtorch to heat a chassis bolt, mind you by that point i had already frigged my chances of using a easyout by borking the head of it, i just drilled the head off and filed it smooth

then again i had no problems with the other 8 phillip head bolts on the chassis with a rattlegun


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