1980 KH100 EL

[Ticketyman]

Ok, I've just bought one of these little puppies to play with, and so my wife can learn to ride. Does anybody have a workshop manual for these..hard copy or disc? Short term I need to know how to check if the 2 stroke oil feeder pump is working. Also what do others run in these, engine oil etc. Also the tank needs a full refurb... any contacts would be handy. Oh yeah what fuel ratio do these run at if the original system works properly.

Thanks

Greg

[Slow and wobbly]

Surprisingly yes I do know a little about these fuckers.
Oil pump is easy peasy.
Put a couple of litres of premix in the tank. Attach a pvc or other suitable clear line to the pump to drain into a container / floor ( your choice). run the engine in neutral and note wether it pumps oil from the tank. If it doesnt ( would be surprising)then let me know I have about a dozen of these pumps yours for postage costs. There are marks on the pump actuator to adjust the oil cable that runs in tandem with the throttle cable. If it is within these marks - at idle and wide open then your in business.
I've got several manuals for this engine but none specific to the KH100 they are bloody simple though.
Just read through all the literature I have and nothing specifies the mix ratio. I run mine at 20:1 for safety sake at the moment. Although for a runabout you should be able run them to 30:1 safely. They are a very under stressed engine in standard tune.
Oil I use is 2KR but this is not suitable for an everyday bike as it is a castor mix and therefore one shot use. Use any high quality 2stroke oil and you will be fine. Check out Penrite HI-per ( or similar ) available at supercheap and for a good price.
We have discussed tanks before - unfortunately I dont have any that dont need work themselves - what is the problem with yours? They are repairable but it depends on how much effort you want to apply. Dave 3 will remember the tank on the bike that passed through his hands that now resides here - the tank was fairly ordinary with a big crease across the top of it. Now though it is completely straight (factory) and has no leaks.
If you need clarification or any further info or parts Just continue to post up here I am happy to discuss them.

[Ticketyman]

Sweet, Thanks for all the info. The tank has previously been rust treated on the inside, so that's okay. The only thing that needs doing is to get a couple of small dints removed and resprayed and stickered up original red and gold.

Q. What covers can I remove that don't hold oil? Talking about attaching a tube to the pump can this be done simply?

[Slow and wobbly]

Edit:
Rewrote all this again - this time with correct information
Service manual for the G series engine says to premix to 20:1.
Remove the cover over the carburettor - front RH side of engine.
Remove the cover over the oil pump - above the kickstarter.
You will see an oil line between the pump and the rotary disc cover behind the carburettor. Undo the banjo fitting from the disc cover end and carefully move it out and away from the engine so that it may drain into a receptacle. Do this carefuly so as not to kink the line or split it - given its age it will be brittle. If you damage it dont worry I'll get you another.
Mix up 2 litres of fuel with 100ml of 2 stroke oil - 20:1. Add this to an empty tank.
Ensure there is sufficient 2 stroke oil in the oil tank so that the pump has something to pump. Start the bike and let it run at an idle and note whether there is oil coming from oil line you disconnected. If there is then run the engine up to approx 5000rpm and hold it for a short while - the flow of oil should increase with the RPM. If all this is happening then the pump is working as it should. If not then it may require adjustment.
The marks on the half pulley the cable is attached to are fairly self explanatory and the adjustment required. Check that with the throttle closed and in the wide open position that the marks align. If they don't of course adjustment can be made to the cable.

Given the 100's I have are High Performance, balltearing, weapons of mass destruction I remove the pumps and oil tank and just run premix. I use Silkolene Pro KR2, but this is a castor ester mix that is suitable for single use though as it seperates from the fuel and goes stale very quickly and so not for everday use. But it does smell bloody good - I run the stale stuff in the mower You could try Penrite Hi Per, well priced at Super cheap or any other quality 2t oil.

[Slow and wobbly]

For the purpose of continuity to this thread below is a PM I received from Tman and instead of keeping it quite I would prefer to reply here so as to create a source of reference. Or some shit like that .

Adrian, I took this puppy out for a run today after checking oil pump etc.

I found that the clutch was mildly slipping in 3rd, 4th, and 5th but the more I road it the better it got. I don't think it's been ridden bugger all in the last 6 months. It had a full rebuild 3000klms ago and was serviced 8 months ago and has only put about 50klms on the clock since.

This is going to be a road going bike but was wondering what simple things I can do to this baby to get it running stronger whilst maintaining reliability? I removed the restrictive baffle from the exhaust today but I realise this want make much difference. What's your advice.

Tman.

In regards to the clutch. The clutch springs are not very strong from the factory and it is possible that gearbox oil that is being run at present is too good. Gearbox oil for 2 strokes these days are based upon the needs of current model bikes such as MX bikes and race reps like the Aprilia's. These bikes of course are designed for a much higher HP output and as such have much heavier clutch springs that can disperse the slippery stuff from the clutch plates. The KH however is just a humble 2 stroke pack horse and is quite happy with the most humble of oils. Remember its age and the parameters of oil quality at its age of design - the worst oil you can find at Kmart is probably better than the best of its day. Sooooo you will need to try a different oil in the box. Simple and cheap really since they only hold 600ml. Try some Advance SX because it is quite possible that when it was serviced they added a specific lightweight gearbox oil - SX does the same stuff or any other mineral based motorcycle oil. Thats the simple option. I run ATF in the engines I have but that's because I have made modifications to the clutch. ATF has a much lower viscosity and can give a smidgeon more power because of less drag within the gearbox. To modify the clutch there are a few options. Add another friction plate to the clutch pack - this pretensions the springs and takes up the wear they will have most definitely have suffered plus the wear to the clutch plates themselves. Or you can purchase a heavy-duty Barnett clutch pack for around $160 and fit that. Modifiying the clutch can be done with the engine in and can be done in under an hour. Try changing the oil first though.

More power but still reliable? This is a contradiction of terms but there are still a few things you can look at doing to ensure its running at its optimum before looking for more power.
1. De-coke the exhaust. Simple and effective for any 2 stroke. Now there is a few different ways you can achieve this - Google and you'll see! The method I prefer is to use an electric heat gun - I have a Ryobi from Bunnings about $60 and is stated to reach 600c. Remove the exhaust pipe and IN AN OPEN SPACE direct the heat gun towards the inner edge of the header pipe. The carbon and oil buildup there will start to glow after a short period of time, once it does then direct the airflow of the heat gun directly down the exhaust pipe. What you have done is start the carbon and crap burning by keeping the hot airflow going down the exhaust pipe you are sustaining the burn and accelerating the burn. If done correctly - and this takes about 20 mins on one of these original pipes - you will see a glowing red ring travel down the pipe. Be warned though that this does create an absolute shitload of smoke and fumes that neither you nor your neighbours should ingest. So make sure they are out and the washing isn't on the line ( I learnt that the hard way from the missus ) and try to do this on a windy day to help dissipate the cloud of smoke. An alternative to this is to use an Oxy Accet torch if you have one and set the carbon / oil alight and then turn off the Accet pumping straight oxygen down the pipe. Its much quicker but nevertheless creates 5 times more smoke 5 times more quickly. That Baffle you took out is nothing more than a rolled up piece of glass fibre that is no doubt dripping in unburnt oil. Wave the heat gun at this and watch the oil catch alight - once again smoke warning. The Glass will not burn but the oil will - place it on a fireproof surface of course. once your done it will be brand new. Put it back in. This is in the essence of keeping the bike original - very few are these days and it may add to resale value in the future as funny as it may seem. The baffle adds nor detracts anything to the engines performance.
2. Make sure its carburating properly. 3 things to check here. Air filter is clean, airbox is sealed and the plenum chamber in which the carburettor sits is sealed so as the only air the carburettor is receiving comes through the air filter. On some of these engines there is a rubber grommet that sits at the very front RH side of the carburettor housing that allows screwdriver access to remove the carburettor clamp. Often this is missing and this can cause the carburation to run lean as it is jetted for use with restriction through the air filter. Check that this is in place. I will grab an engine and photograph it later for you if you cant see what I mean. Your carburettor is a VM19 and has only one adjustment ( aside from it being clean ) and that is the idle mix screw - 1.5 turns out. This can vary with age and the unknown history of previous users. Adjust it from all the way in until it both idles smoothly and revs cleanly from closed to open throttle. You may find a variation from the 1.5 turns out of 1/2 a turn in or out. This adjustment is for off the line, first1/4 turn of the throttle. Useful info here http://www.iwt.com.au/mikunicarb.htm
3. Gearing. If the bike is only going to be used for Urban use then drop a cog on the front to give it a little more pep off the line. standard is 14. go to a 13. While your there check that the chain is in good nick and the rear sprocket also. The driveline of any bike saps HP so ensure that its the best it can be. Standard gearing is 14 front 36 rear 428chain ( dont bother with o'ring). Replace the lot and you'll get change from $100. check also that the rear wheel is running true and not placing a sideways strain on the chain by measuring the distance between the swingarm pivot and the rear axle both sides should be equal. You only have 9HP at the rear wheel from the factory so you cant really afford to lose any.
4. Wheel bearings. Check them to see they are serviceable and add some fresh grease. A set of wheel bearings from a Kawasaki dealer is around $80 - cheaper if you take the lot down to your local bearing wholesaler and get them to size them up. Once again only 9HP don't forsake any.
5. Check that the rear brake is adjusted correctly and is not dragging. Lubricate all moving parts - including the sprimgs - to ensure that the shoes are releasing clearly and cleanly from the hub. Shoe and hub shouldn't be considered moving parts .
These bikes when in fine fettle should be able to be wheeled around by hand like a mid 80's BMX bike - a little heavy but still within the ease of a 12YO boy. If you know what I mean. Nothing should be causing friction or drag against movement.
6. Spark plug. Give it a new one and by a spare one while your at it to bung under the seat.

Thats the Simple diy stuff in it's original form.
More oomph again? Then its engine out and on the bench for some mods. Can be completed "simply" but your definition of simple may vary from mine



My typin finger hurts now

[Gosling1]

I bet it does !! some great tips there mate.....

Greg - ATF in the gearbox of these little jiggers - and you can also add some extra pre-load to the clutch springs by placing an extra washer under the bolt-head of each of the clutch bolts.

[Slow and wobbly]

Greg - ATF in the gearbox of these little jiggers

Doesn't mix well with old oil though and since these engines come with sludge installed in the bottom end of the gearbox I wouldn't recommend it unless the engine was split and cleaned internally first.

you can also add some extra pre-load to the clutch springs by placing an extra washer under the bolt-head of each of the clutch bolts.

true and this may well be enough to resolve the situation.
Reason I didn't want to just PM a reply - there are more ways to kill a cat than by just stuffing strawberry's up its arse. Or something like that.

[Ticketyman]

Pictures

[Slow and wobbly]

Wow!
They grow in your garden too!






Seems that way around here! They just keep popping up!


Looks good as a basis of an easy and simple resto job. Some TLC and a focused effort on each component could see it really shine. I really want one like this in original trim that I could use for nipping up the street (legally).
Leave it original and accept it for what it is. Take pride in each little job you do and it will definitely be a rewarding little bike, along with enriching your motorcycle knowledge.
I offer to you anything you need in the way of parts or information, just let me know.

[Ticketyman]

I love this site, your information has been invaluable. Being a member of this forum is reason enough to ride a Kwaka.

Thanks.

[Ticketyman]

Oh yeah, I got 100klms an hour out of this little beast carrying my 92kg. How's that sound?

[Six Addict]

dangerous

[Slow and wobbly]

This is going to be a road going bike but was wondering what simple things I can do to this baby to get it running stronger whilst maintaining reliability?

Tman.

I forgot to add
The best advice for running a KH100 is here http://www.switch.tv/videos/550
You dont have to dress like a homosexual astronaut and remember that hydration is an important part of fitness

[Stace]

I dont have to dress like a homosexual astronaut

But you DO

[Slow and wobbly]

You dont have to dress like a homosexual astronaut .......

Its optional.......