fibreglassing over a mould

[timmyrocks]

hey i have made a mould out of aluminium sheet for a belly pan for my zxr250 race bike and to make it a little less noticable a want to make it out of fibreglass and paint it to my bikes colour so it looks half decent
i have read up on some site and they all say to use this super duper non stick adhesive on your mould then lay your fibreglass sheets then when your happy it just peels apart and your left with your mould and fibreglass product
now to the topic anyone done this before or have a better idea and where can i get this super duper non stick stuff
cheers Tim

[Slow and wobbly]

hey i have made a mould out of aluminium sheet for a belly pan for my zxr250 race bike and to make it a little less noticable a want to make it out of fibreglass and paint it to my bikes colour so it looks half decent
i have read up on some site and they all say to use this super duper non stick adhesive on your mould then lay your fibreglass sheets then when your happy it just peels apart and your left with your mould and fibreglass product
now to the topic anyone done this before or have a better idea and where can i get this super duper non stick stuff
cheers Tim

Bunnings have it.
And if they have it then most other places that stock fibreglass materials also have it.
It's called Mould release - Different brands etc but that is its basic name and purpose.

[timmyrocks]

cheers will have to stop in at bunnings sometime this weekend cheers

[Nanna10r]

Also you should polish the Daylights out of the mould with McGuires Canuba (Sp) polish, fiberglass suppply places will sell it too ya for about $10 a tin. But as Wobbler said "mould release agents are the go"
Post up a pick mate when you're done.

[timmyrocks]

will do lolz currently doin it now just laid the first sheet and waitin for it to dry i went to the auto shop to get the release agent they only had one size ( to fuggin big ) in stock and it was $48 lolz tradies pack so i was like eh fuk dat dun wanna spend that much the guy came up to me and said meh fuk using that just put a heap of grease on it that'll keep it from stickin hehe so atm its covered in grease drying when thats done i will build up the glass and smooth it out and make it look pretty cheers Tim

[mike-s]

if thats the case i'd hate to be your keyboard right about now.

[MiG]

If I'm reading your post right, you've laid up one ply and put the grease onto this. You haven't have you? WD40 should do the trick too.

[timmyrocks]

i put the grease on the aluminium so i can release the fiberglass mould n WD-40 wouldnt have worked cause i had to mould a bowl and WD-40 wouldnt have stayed on the lips either way it worked and am atm sanding and making shore it holds the capasity and doesnt leak hehe will post some pics hopefully by the weekend if i dun get distracted with the case of homebrew from me mate what a mate he is goota love homebrew keeps ya regular cheers

[mike-s]

I would have used 2 layers across the whole thing minimum, and used three or four towards the mounting points to ensure its strong enough but remains flexible

[timmyrocks]

done and done hehe

[robracer]

So Tim you are holding out on us......where are the PICS!

[timmyrocks]

lolz will post pics tomoro sanding it atm and trying to make it lighter fuggin thing weighed 800grams lolz so now im sanding and making holes in it so i have to patch them up and sand again haha hopefully its lighter if not i will just backing tray the bitch

[MiG]

You need to maximise the volume ratio, which is the ratio of reinforcing fibre/matrix material (resin) if you want a strong and light part. You have to squeeze out the resin.

[wet4uracing]

and dont forget it has to hold 5 litres of fluid

[timmyrocks]

check your rules its 3 litres