What Next? [ZXR250A 1990]

[Neka79]

Not sure about your bike, but usually on the top of the rubber manifold there are nipples with various vacuum hoses - fuel tap etc. You simply connect the gauges to each of those,making sure that you still have some way of fuelling if you're using the bikes own tank and it has a vac tap. Then at operating temp, making sure the idle speed is correct, adjust the carbies in pairs. I think for mine it was left pair, right pair, and then synchronise them with the centre screw.

u kno way too much for a girl!!

are u a tranny?? or a dyke?? or a mechanic??

or u just learn stuff??

[Daisy]

Mechanic? Naah, I got a pet one. Where else would I get hold of gear like that?
Plus I learn stuff real quick. I lean over his shoulder whenever he touches my bike to make sure he doesn't hurt it.









and I read the workshop manual...

[Neka79]

Mechanic? Naah, I got a pet one. Where else would I get hold of gear like that?
Plus I learn stuff real quick. I lean over his shoulder whenever he touches my bike to make sure he doesn't hurt it.









and I read the workshop manual...

haha i notice u get all defensive abt the mechanic comment...but the tranny/dyke comments slip thru untouched...

PMSL

[Daisy]

Nothing defensive about that.
as for the other, would you still love me?









I got a bit frowned at last time I admired a girls bum here ...

[Neka79]

Nothing defensive about that.
as for the other, would you still love me?









I got a bit frowned at last time I admired a girls bum here ...

u kno i'd love u no matter who's bum u admired!!

[Slow and wobbly]

I got a bit frowned at last time I admired a girls bum here ...

Frowned on ! A girl admiring a another girls arse is definitely to be encouraged

[craig]

awww shit will you people be serious your scaring the punters away.....................apparently

[craig]

oh and attracting imbeciles

[Slow and wobbly]

May be a little late now that the carbs are back together but......... It definitely pays to remove the emulsion tubes and give them a good clean.

[Gosling1]

......Frowned on ! A girl admiring a another girls arse is definitely to be encouraged

Bloody oath ! and remember Rule #1 - Pic's - Or it Didn't Happen !!!

[momo]

Well you were absolutely right when you said that removing the carbs was no insignificant task.

I took the airbox off with ease and sat staring at the bike for the next 30 minutes trying to figure out where the manifold clamps were. After another 15 minutes of head scratching, realised that you need to drop the radiator down in order to get at them properly.

You won't necessarily need to remove the radiator. To make it easier for yourself in future, make sure that the screws on the manifold clamps are almost perpendicular to the main axis of the bike. You should then be able to poke a long screwdriver in from the sides to loosen the clamps, without having to remove the radiator.

[momo]

Couple of things to do:

Take the throttle off completely, and lube the bar, inside of the throttle tube, and inside of the actual throttle housing as well with wizards piss. Sometimes if any one of these 3 components is a bit dodgy, you won't get a smooth throttle action or return. You can squirt a bit down the throttle cables as well, but as long as these are routed correctly, you shouldn't get too much drama from the cables themselves.

I am having that very problem. I covered the bar, tube and housing with carbon graphite lube. Is there a better/more permanent solution?

[Stealthassassin]

Well i got a chance to have a quick look at the bike tonight, I found that there's fuel getting to the the fourth carb, well at least fuel came out of the float bowl drain.

I lubed up the right 'bar and the cable guides inside the switchblock and it works like a charm Snaps shut exactly how it should.

I had a quick look at the plug lead and the end cap basically snapped off in my hand, so for now im going to focus on that. I'm pretty sure i should replace all of them considering the troubles i had with the others being loose too. So i'll shoot an email off to Southern Cross Sports and get a price .

Got a few o-rings for the pilot screws from MCAS yesterday, i'm a bit unsure if they're the right size, i'll check it out on the weekend when i get a chance to get the carbs back out, but if they're the wrong size, do you think i could get the right ones at any decent hardware store? Are they a specific part?

Anyway, thanks again for all the help

[Gosling1]

I am having that very problem. I covered the bar, tube and housing with carbon graphite lube. Is there a better/more permanent solution?

not really - If the sticky throttle persists, it may actually be something like a dud return spring on the actual carby bodies, or even really sticky slides ? This assumes that the cables themselves are also lubed right up........and routed properly. Its easy to pinch the throttle cables on some bikes between the tank and frame, and this is guranteed to cause problems in some way....

I always use WD40 or CRC for throttle housings/cables etc. Graphite lube is good, but it can attract dust and dirt over time, and regular cleaning/lubing is then required. This is not such a bad thing anyway, because if you are checking/cleaning parts, you can often spot problems before they become *problems* - ie cable fraying on throttle/clutch cables.....

..... Are they a specific part?.....

They are, but thats not to say they can't be replaced with a cheaper version of the same thing from another supplier. Unless you muck around with carbs all the time, I reckon the best bet is to stay with stock parts. Good news about the throttle cable/switchblock....and plug caps are a known source of poor running, so replacing all of them with new ones is a good idea.

Soon, your bike will be running spot-onski !

[Stealthassassin]

Quick question... I have to charge the new battery and have borrowed a charger from a mate, but how do i know if it can be used for a motorcycle battery?

The charger is rated as follows:

Powertech PLus - Sealed Lead Acid Battery Charger

Model MB-3523
input: 240V~50Hz 39W
Output: 6/12V ---1800mA 21.6VA (max)

Its a switchable 6-12 volt charger, will this work?