Must be the weather or something(stuffed engine pics added!)

[Gosling1]

How about an update ?? Opened that box of matches yet ??

[mike-s]

Major improvements in the last week. Got the bastard project running thanks to input from other kind souls on this forum. Next meeting, many beers shall be bought as thanks, provided your there that is . It's just a shame one jet is still a tad iffy, but as per pictures below, I got her functioning and revving along quite healthily elsewhere throughout the rev range. No air leaks on the exhaust side of things, and im going to use silicone around the carbs to ensure there aren't any airleaks pre or post the carbies.

I re-bled the front caliper with a better brake bleeding kit and got a big bubble out, now the brakes have improved even more, but still it's only a shadow of what any multipot caliper can dish out. Next is to check and most likely renew the rear brake shoes, then mount up the crashbars (they are held on with good old zipties in the pic below. I guess i should start considering replacing some of the wiring out from the battery as the fuse looks a bit dicy and the wiring a bit long in the tooth. But from the checks ive done elsewhere, aside from needing to give the switchblocks a REALLY good once over, the wiring is otherwise pretty solid.

Then theres the whole pesky missalignment of the front light and indicators, i can fix that, but its not a worry as it'll take bugger all time to fix with a rubber mallet.

[mike-s]

adding these.....?


interesting offtopic read: http://www.umgweb.com/member1/sgs2501.htm

[mike-s]

didnt get those, my bidding thingo farked up on me. I ended up getting these, i have just got to wait for them to come from hongkong, the only downside




oh and this
as well as the left side one too. I've already figured out the wiring and joined them, i just need to solder them up and install them.

[Neka79]

u still trying to polish that turd??

[mike-s]

not really polish, moreso degunk

[Gosling1]

u still trying to polish that turd??

I can't understand it either mate, I mean people still clean Honda's FFS !!

[mike-s]

*chortle*

[Ratmick]

I can't understand it either mate, I mean people still clean Honda's FFS !!

Yeah, I don't have time to ride mine, just clean it

Mick

[mike-s]

have soldered up the new switchblocks to the old blocks, the only question i've got is, has anyone ever had to deal with black oxidised copper? Two of the lines on one side have gone BLACK on the outside, and it seems to have penetrated a reasonable length into the core of the wire. So im just going to cut them off at the switchblock and start again. Im just lucky its only a pair of wires i need to loop anyway (old switch could turn the lights on/off, this one i have to hardwire it so the lights stay on) so im just going to use a 6-7cm loop ofwire as opposed to having to thread it all the way back up through the loom again.

[Gosling1]

Yes, black oxidised copper wire is basically fucked, from having too much current pumped through it for too long. The wiring is rated at a certain 'amps', and if that rating is exceeded, then you get the copper wire turning black. Are these the headlight wires ? If so, its possible that someone in the past has jammed a higher wattage bulb into the headlight, without wiring in a relay to handle the extra current load.

Its a possibility anyway....

If I were you, I would rip out the entire section of wiring harness where these 2 wires run, and replace them completely. There will be some damage along the entire section of these wires.

[mike-s]

spoke to aneighbour tonight, and he suggested the relay thing too as well as mentioned that the wires are black basically as they've annealed (high heat treated themselves), which is exactly what im going to do. r.e. the black wires, im going to just replace the section on the switchblock length with a 6-7cm loop of higher guage wire. and not interfere with the current wiring. Until it comes to wiring in a relay, that i'll probably wire in as close as i can to the battery and run wire straight from the relay to the headlamp.

I should probably do it on the RF too if it's not already set up that way.
cheers for the confirmation there gos.

all that aside, its asctually f*ing scary they got hot enough to do that to themselves without melting the rest of the effing harness!

[Gosling1]

........all that aside, its asctually f*ing scary they got hot enough to do that to themselves without melting the rest of the effing harness!.....

its not that uncommon actually - I have done a lot of electrical work on Zeds over the years, and most of them have some sort of 'melty' issue with the main fuse in the fusebox......like the fuse-clips have actually melted into the plastic box !!! This is *generally* caused when owners let their batteries run dry, the bike will still start and run, but the ability of the battery to act as a big voltage-storing 'capacitor' is very much diminshed. The alternator will still pump out its voltage, and if the battery is not sucking in any excess current, it has to go 'somewhere' in the harness........and thats down the main wiring loom, starting at the main fuse......

Keep doing those hard yards with the wiring mate, you'll get there soon ....

[mike-s]

speaking of the wiring, i recieved the indicators from hongkong today, and to be honest, for what they are, they look pretty fricking good!! They're some chinese brand, chang-it or some such, but they still have the surface protecting plastic all over them indicating they are brand spanking new, which works for me.

regarding wiring, not done it yet, but i'll put the 20ampre loop in to bypass the shot wiring sometime this weekend.

p.s. as ever, i can believe it Gos, sometimes stuff like that is just scary and a massive kick of encouragement to look after your kit.

[mike-s]

new indicators, direct from thailand, and no there weren't any signs they were involved in any "$5 sucky sucky". It's sometimes pot luck with the quality of the things you get on ebay, and these things are built really REALLY well.

One's installed, the other i've got to cut the remaining one off, stupid nut frost on the shaft on the indicator making it a hacksaw job to remove.