Stator resistance question

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Stator resistance question

Postby javaman » Wed Dec 13, 2006 2:48 pm

Okay.. so my stator resistance reading are 1.5ohms, 4 ohms, and 3.7ohms.

Manual says it should be 0.3 - 0.4 ohms.

Is that a logical fault since my understanding is that either they can short out (0 ohms) or open (infinity ohms)... ?


At the moment stator output at 4000rpm is a mere 12v where it should be 53 volts (AC current)... need to rule out whether it's a stator or rotor (magnet) problem.

Thanks....
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Re: Stator resistance question

Postby mrmina » Wed Dec 13, 2006 5:45 pm

javaman wrote:Okay.. so my stator resistance reading are 1.5ohms, 4 ohms, and 3.7ohms.

Manual says it should be 0.3 - 0.4 ohms.

Is that a logical fault since my understanding is that either they can short out (0 ohms) or open (infinity ohms)... ?


At the moment stator output at 4000rpm is a mere 12v where it should be 53 volts (AC current)... need to rule out whether it's a stator or rotor (magnet) problem.

Thanks....


Andi, the resistance across the stator should be around what the manual says or even upto 0.7 ohms.

Short circuit has a resistance that is negligable but not totally zero. Open is infinity. However the vaules that u have measured are not too bad, but the voltage u measured is!

Are u using the right equipment to measure the VAC
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Postby javaman » Wed Dec 13, 2006 8:19 pm

I used 100 Vac resolution so no question about the accuracy (I guess)...

I come to the conclusion that the stator is screwed. Will need to rewind the thing if it's too expensive to replace.

Does anyone know whether the winding of stator on ZX6R is Y-wound or Delta-wound ?

Will also need to trace why the stator gave up. Hopefully the regulator is not fcuked ...

Thanks....
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Postby Strika » Wed Dec 13, 2006 8:30 pm

javaman wrote:I used 100 Vac resolution so no question about the accuracy (I guess)...

I come to the conclusion that the stator is screwed. Will need to rewind the thing if it's too expensive to replace.

Does anyone know whether the winding of stator on ZX6R is Y-wound or Delta-wound ?

Will also need to trace why the stator gave up. Hopefully the regulator is not fcuked ...

Thanks....


For a rewind, try Bert at Small Coil Rewinds in Geelong. I don't have the number so look it up ya lazy bugger! :wink: Oh, and he is the best in the business Andi! :)
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Postby javaman » Wed Dec 13, 2006 9:17 pm

Strika wrote:
javaman wrote:I used 100 Vac resolution so no question about the accuracy (I guess)...

I come to the conclusion that the stator is screwed. Will need to rewind the thing if it's too expensive to replace.

Does anyone know whether the winding of stator on ZX6R is Y-wound or Delta-wound ?

Will also need to trace why the stator gave up. Hopefully the regulator is not fcuked ...

Thanks....


For a rewind, try Bert at Small Coil Rewinds in Geelong. I don't have the number so look it up ya lazy bugger! :wink: Oh, and he is the best in the business Andi! :)


Hey thanks Strika... I did not know there is such service like that around here in Australia... used to be around any corners back home :lol:

off to yellow pages then!!
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Postby javaman » Thu Dec 14, 2006 9:36 am

Take a good look at the stator and it's fried alright... few wiring later all back to normal :D
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Postby mrmina » Thu Dec 14, 2006 5:06 pm

it will be a star (Y) rewind to put out more voltage.

Y uses voltage across 2 phases where delta uses voltage across one phase. If i could draw a pic, u'd understand what i mean.

i'm 99% sure it will be star (Y).
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Postby RG » Thu Dec 14, 2006 7:56 pm

mrmina wrote:it will be a star (Y) rewind to put out more voltage.

Y uses voltage across 2 phases where delta uses voltage across one phase. If i could draw a pic, u'd understand what i mean.

i'm 99% sure it will be star (Y).
Image


Now you have a pic.











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Postby javaman » Thu Dec 14, 2006 8:05 pm

My brain hurts :lol: it's been 16 yrs since I learn these things ...

So far the stator is good. I did not take it off to see how the wires are routed (thanks to weird star-shaped bolt :evil:), simply solder the broken part.
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Postby Yankee » Sat Dec 16, 2006 7:28 am

Have you got pics Andi of what you had to do? eh, probably not since they aren't here, huh?
You said solder broken part, did you have to just "re-attach" some broken windings????
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Postby bonester » Sat Dec 16, 2006 8:13 am

I would disconnect the wiring from the stator connector plug (goes to regulator) and measure the AC voltage with the bike running. There should be three yellow wires in most instances. (some have two) My bikes have an output of around 70 volt AC per phase @ 4000 or so RPM. (measured between phases, not to ground) If you don't have an EVEN output of the phases it would point to the stator or it's wiring. What you DON'T want is a short to ground from any of the phases. AT low resistance values like you mention I would not be too concerned about the values as the multimeters won't be too accurate there.
One of my GNs has fried two stators or wiring in the last year- I caught the last one- wiring fried and shorted where it left the engine case. I assume that the wiring fries, and the stator can't stand being shorted for long and fries itself. I just put new wires on the stator and she has been good to go since. Why is this happening to a KAWASAKI? Usually a piece-of-shit SUZUKI problem! :shock:
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Postby javaman » Sat Dec 16, 2006 8:57 am

Yankee wrote:Have you got pics Andi of what you had to do? eh, probably not since they aren't here, huh?
You said solder broken part, did you have to just "re-attach" some broken windings????


Was thinking of taking pics but then not too keen to get my uber slr dirty with oil :lol:
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"my dad's motorbike is cool it is all ways clean.oheter pepole' s motorbikes
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-ariel circa 2007
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Postby javaman » Sat Dec 16, 2006 9:00 am

bonester wrote:I would disconnect the wiring from the stator connector plug (goes to regulator) and measure the AC voltage with the bike running. There should be three yellow wires in most instances. (some have two) My bikes have an output of around 70 volt AC per phase @ 4000 or so RPM. (measured between phases, not to ground) If you don't have an EVEN output of the phases it would point to the stator or it's wiring. What you DON'T want is a short to ground from any of the phases. AT low resistance values like you mention I would not be too concerned about the values as the multimeters won't be too accurate there.
One of my GNs has fried two stators or wiring in the last year- I caught the last one- wiring fried and shorted where it left the engine case. I assume that the wiring fries, and the stator can't stand being shorted for long and fries itself. I just put new wires on the stator and she has been good to go since. Why is this happening to a KAWASAKI? Usually a piece-of-shit SUZUKI problem! :shock:


That's what I did and according to the manual. Apparently 2 wires from #1 and #3 spool shortened but not enough to cause it to open/short. Just barely 'burned' together. Few pokes later it's confirmed those two wires has fried together.

Mybe just my bad luck since any references to google always returns honda periodic stator replacement :lol:
alien.gif andi - Red GPZ900R, GPZ750R1, KLR650 Tengai, KLR250
"my dad's motorbike is cool it is all ways clean.oheter pepole' s motorbikes
are't like my dad's one it's because their is one not always clean."
-ariel circa 2007
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Postby mrmina » Sun Dec 17, 2006 7:24 pm

RG wrote:
Now you have a pic.


farkin engineers


that u grasshopper

its always good to have another square, who knows what i'm on about :lol:
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