Steering Stem Bearing issues

[stevew_zzr]

Well as usual, the only way I learn things is to try, then fail - then ask someone who knows what the hell they are doing.

I'm replacing the stem bearings on the ZZR250 and it would appear that the outer-race of both the upper and lower stem bearing has stuck itself in the recess in the steering stem column in the frame. How on earth do i get those bastards out ? The manual is no hope at all, it seems to think that i'm supposed to have one of those steel ball type bearings (whereas the ones i've got are more of a roller-type ball bearing?)

So yeah - does anyone have any tips, tricks, ideas etc for how to get the damn outer-race of the bearing out of the frame ?

[mike-s]

aside from getting a long brass drift and bashing it from the other side of the tibe, id say reassemble it and take it to a bikeshop.

im gonna chicken out and get the bike shop to do it when i get it done.

[stevew_zzr]

Yer you can't bash from the other side as the inner diameter of the column is smaller than the inner diameter of the outer-race of the bearing ... so basically you can't get anything behind it.

I might ring my local workshop and ask 'em

[stevew_zzr]

I'm assuming heating things up to make them a bit more compliant (expanding the metal) is a really baaaad idea ?

[FrogZ]

First reply was correct, dont have to use brass but as you are not trying to save them.
I have had a bit of experience with this due to monos

The bike would have originally had balls but it is BETTER with the tapered rollers anyway (someone has done them before obv.)
The bike has to be high enuf at the front to get the forks out. I only take the top triple off and keep all the "bottom" together (axle wheel etc.) You can either put the bike on a block and trolley jack (dont forget you have to be able to get the forks out!) or suspend the whole front from the ceiling.
The last is more difficult but the bike wont fall over either.
Get a new set of tapered rollers and shells (should come in a set anyway).
Get teh number off the dealer (or the old ones) and go to a Bearing Shop, do NOT buy originals that come from the same place but come in a Kwaka bag for three times as much.
Knock the old ones out (I use a long screwdriver ruff ruff) by going around it, dont try and knock it all out on one spot.
I SEEM to remember that there was only two notches in the lip the shell butted to on a ZZR 250, so tap one side then the other until the shell comes out.
To replace either tap in using the old shell, or if you are a bit worried, put the shell in the freezer and it will shrink fit. (do this)
Do NOT just bash them in, if you have to use force something is wrong.
Check CONSTANTLY that the bugger is going in straight.
DO NOT MARK THE SHELLS, if you do peg em and start again.
When you are doing up the new bearings tighten to were it starts to bind.
There should be NO play but NO notchiness either.
Grab the bike by the front tyre of fork bottoms and get someone to put there finger on the steering stem and top triple. NO play, not even a hint of it OK !!
I like the bars to be able to "flop" back and forth (no cables etc. attached)
After going for a ride recheck.

In the "old" days we used to overtighten to notchy and back off but I am a bit sus' on this method now.

ps. I accept absoultely NO responsibility when your front end falls out and you die. Take it to a dealer, pay through the nose (the labour will kill you) and then at least your family can sue them for funeral costs :wink:

[stevew_zzr]

yeah well usually it would just be a case of bashing from the other end

As i said though - that ain't possible

[FrogZ]

Well I changed the fuggers, I know it.
From the balls to the rollers.
There was two notches in the lip. (on the early blue ZZR 250)
A rough pr*ck like me wouldnt be too concerned with making my own
BUT I DO NOT RECCOMEND THAT
IF not then hit it with a welder (as per heat up above)
I did that on my old BoldOr and it worked
BUT
IF you cant get them out then its the dealer dude
Just strip it as far as you can first, it all counts.
DONT assume that they will done up properly when you get it back, check it.

[stevew_zzr]

I ended up using a welder, but not to heat up!

The bearings had no notches on em, no lip to catch with a drift etc etc so as per instructions from Ian at bolton's klackersaki I welded, with a MIG, a 'substantial' bead around the inside of the shell/race ... then you let it cool and they basically drop out (tiny bit of prying).

Bloody crappy bearings !

[FrogZ]

We just "spotted" either side, but yeah they just drop out....
Thats what I meant about heat up, not welding the thing to the head stem

[stevew_zzr]

I feel like i've learn something

[stevew_zzr]

I feel like i've learn something

Obviously not any english skills though ....

[Duane]

I feel like i've learn something

Obviously not any english skills though ....

Yeah but u like mechanic mastering things. ratchet. spanner man, cool.

[Neka79]

I feel like i've learn something

Obviously not any english skills though ....

glad u said it....zzrblokey??

mate i was gunna say, i ussually go to the dealer cos i dont have a press thing to get em in & out... tho if u need em done, i recommend GC..Richard got em done for abt $200 after quoting me $300 (i was happy)..that included roller tapered bearings too..

[stevew_zzr]

Yeah but you can't beat $90 for the bearings and about $50 in beer to do it yaself

[Neka79]

Yeah but you can't beat $90 for the bearings and about $50 in beer to do it yaself

depends....if ya fark em getting em back in..then u can beat it...or if it takes u 2 days without a bike..then u can beat it...