by Rossi » Tue May 16, 2006 4:15 pm
I know yours is a 6 but they're basically identical
It's just about the easiest job on the bike, you don't even have to drop the oil, you need an 8mm allen key and a phillips screwdriver (for the fairing bolts) and a ratchet with a 10mm socket on it and a 6mm allen key for the clutch bolts.
remove belly pan and right side fairing panel, loosen cable at lever and actuator, unhook from actuator, turn actuator arm 90 degrees and withdraw, undo all cover bolts and remove (may need a slight tap) undo all the allen bolts in the centre of the clutch and withdraw them with the springs, pull out the pack of friction plates and steels and turn upside down on a clean surface, put a new friction plate in the clutch basket, discard the one from the removed pack and put the next steel plate in the basket and repeat until all the steels have gone back in the order they came out (along with your new friction plates) reassemble with your new springs and remember the last friction plate in goes in the next position round! or it won't work, you may need a slight smear of gasket goo on the casing if the gasket isn't up to much. the whole process should take about half an hour to forty minutes (honestly).
As you reinstall each steel plate check the surface for wear, each surface is dotted with oil dimples if any of them have worn away you need to get some plates.
Finally, make sure you have 2-3mm entirely free play at the actuator arm, if it has no play your clutch will still still slip (and is normally why 9R clutches are slipping anyway).
I'd rather change three clutches than one set of plugs, easy peasy.
I'll wager you your clutch plates are well within spec (2.2mm is the wear limit, 2.5-2.8mm is new) and the free length of the springs coming out is the same as those going in, and that you have no free play at the actuating arm and that it's either got a sump full of fully synthetic oil or some wally has used it in the past.
I don't suffer from insanity; I enjoy every minute of it.