Installing Dynojet Kits (fixed: thank God.)

[mike-s]

Ok, i forked out for a Dynojet kit, and knew there'd be a bitta messing about, but who-ha, requires a bit more use of the drill than i anticipated. (drilling air vent holes as well as the airbox, etc)

Has anyone else had the pleasure of installing one of these kits? and if so, was it more or less painfull than im envisioning? (im only slightly wary, im sure it'll go fine, but still im f*in nervous)

[MadKaw]

Good luck Mike... I had the dynojet kit on my zx7r fitted by a pro so I can't help...
The factory pro and Ivans kits are much easier as the don't require drilling...

[mike-s]

factory pro never got back to me when i emailed them about a possible obsolete kit. Ivans, no joy *shrug*.

I'll just set it to stage 2 (118 mains) and cross my fingers and hope for the best.

[mike-s]

Kit installed without a problem, seems quite nice down low, however i now cant get it above about 7krpm or so without a fight, regardless of how smoothly or viciously i wind on the throttle.

I'm suspecting its a problem with the ignition, simply because the "cap assembly" which goes from the HT lead to the plug is a rather loose fit on cyl #3.

Here's the symptoms:
1) Plugs 1-2-4 i can feel them attach firmly, #3 just almost kinda "sits" there and is in place, but i'd not totally trust it.
2) When running about, ,at revs under 5k the bikes as smooth as it ever was, if not better. from 5.5-7 it starts to progressively "stutter" for lack of a better description, and it just goes choppy as hell and REFUSES to go above 8k (or so) regardless of how much i try to convince it to, going WOT from 4k doesnt do much for getting through the problem, same goes with slowly creeping the throttle and trying to get it to use the lower range on the needle to go faster.

I'm suspecting that the engine vibration is minimal at lower revs, etc, and the lead thingo is staying relatively stationary, but is starting to dance like it's at a disco at anything above 5krpm.

does this sound right to you wise crowd? and if i need to get a replacement sorted, anyone got a spare one of these devices on hand?

Although i doubt it could be tuning or carbs, i've gone through nearly everything and put either NEW parts in, or verified the old ones ok (i.e. put newer carb slides in, new emulsion tube, floats are ok and at the right levels, etc..) Could it be something carb related i missed?

[Gosling1]

Plug caps can cause all sorts of problems - You have 3 that seat correctly, and 1 possibly 'dud' one, I would be checking out *why* it feels loose, you may have something come adrift inside the plug cap itself ??

[SocialSecurity]

could well be the case.... couldnt see poorly selected mains causing that much grief

[Barrabob]

check the plug boots for holes i have had a plug lead fireing through the side of a plug boot before.

Its running on all cylinders ? verify with the wet finger on the cold exhaust thing.

tried a plug chop after the event might find a black one and 3 good ones?

tried giving it a rev with the lid off the airbox all the slides moving as they should.

[SocialSecurity]

a water pistol or spray bottle works a little better than a wet finger

[Gosling1]

I just spit on the bastards...... that works too........

[mike-s]

Hmm, got home from work, the bike is acting a bit sluggish down low, but not suffering anything like it is at higher revs, i could JUST get it to 7.5k rpm tonight, by getting it to 6krpm on about 1/3 throttle and then letting it wind out on its own. But WOT, it doesnt like it too much, and the level of missbehaving seems to change a bit, so,etimes it behaves a bit better than other times.

Well the last time i took stuff off (when i was uhm-ing and ahing about how fecked the needle selection in the carb was) i could confirm that #3 was a LOT blacker than the other plugs, and it hasn't been really improving with time.

I ordered a second hand one from a wreckers, it'll be arriving in the post at my work tomorrow, i'll take the plugs out, clean them, gap them and replace the suspect boot. At the same time im seriously considering replacing the HT leads themselves as i think they are rather fucked for a lack of a better word.
.....
Goddamn, i just realised had i not gone to the pub with workmates, i could have dropped by autopro this afternoon and picked up a length of HT lead, might have to try and get some before taking the train to work tomorrow.

r.e. the spit/spray test, sounds a good idea, but i get rather minimal access to the headers through the air exit ports. I'm pretty sure it's just having a hissy fit to spite me, hopefully the above attempts at fixing it sort the issue out.

Oh and i know why, its just not gripping correctly. i"ve tried it with a spare plug and it just doesnt want to play ball, i've attacked it with pliers and a screwdriver and havent really improved the situation, a new one is def the way to go i think.

On that note i think i might buy a spare set of plugs from MCAS tomorrow too to take a peek at when doing the rest, who knows, the plugs may be rooted too (despite only being 8kkm old)

[mike-s]

pulled the bastards out again, made sure they were totally spick and spanners, everything was in correctly and lined up perfectly, put it back together, carb synched it (now within 1millibar or so of each other) and will take it out for a road test tonight or tomorrow night.

(i've since learned that taking it to work the next day is NOT a fun way to learn that your bike is still screwed up, especially in peak hour sydney traffic!)

results to follow......

p.s. thanks HEAPS for the ideas, on here and yesterday while half drunkenly talking shit at Dave & Jus's place

[KaneMortlock]

These fellas from this thread might be able to help, at least one of whom has already posted here:

http://www.ksrc-au.com/phpBB2/viewtopic ... highlight=

[mike-s]

As it turns out, despite having an aftermarket muffler/system and the correctly modified air box, the $3.44 GPX wasnt putting enough air through to satisfy the level of fuel getting dumped therein.

The solution was to go back to the dynojet size 102 jets (they have their own mysterious measuring system different to keihin stockies, so nfi how big the new jet hole is. Balanced the carbs (im gettin good at it, only took 10 minutes from beginning to end last night!!) and took it to work for a spin.

No coughing and spluttering at the high revs like it was drowning, like before. Though there is a minor hiccup at lower revs when i go past 1/2 throttle or so when its feeling a bit cold blooded in the mornings, testing after 10 minutes of riding showed that that trait had pretty much vanished once fully warmed up, im sure i can live with it though (just means its a touch rich at that throttle opening when cold).

How i figured out what the problem was? Aside from this being the only recourse i could think of, i spoke to a ex bike mechanic last weekend (at a bbq while slightly toasted) who suggested trial running the bike sans air filter, just to see if it opens things up sufficiently for the bike to work at the richer setting. The bike revved when warm at up to 9krpm with a minor bit of stuttering, instead of fully telling me to fark off at 7krpm like before. So i figured it was definately running rich.

On the bright side, aside from the bike working nearly perfectly, i have now managed to get the carbs out, changed the jets and gotten everything fully installed again, all within a hour and a half flat. Significantly faster than the 8 hours of swearing and cussing the first time i tried to do it.

[Smitty]

As it turns out, despite having an aftermarket muffler/system and the correctly modified air box, the $3.44 GPX wasnt putting enough air through to satisfy the level of fuel getting dumped therein. ...snip...

Mike what shape is the airfilter in....?
the foam gets clogged pretty quickly!
I for one, was always giving mine a clean/re-oil
every few months


cheers

[mike-s]

Theres a little bit of black engine oil on it on one side, but honestly not enough to affect it as 3/4+ of it is perfectly clean. I did the breathe-thru-it test on a clean bit of it, and it didnt feel clogged at all. the K&N oil is still red on it as opposed to all black with crap and dust.

I might give it a clean sometime soon (i.e. when i can be arsed), but otherwise it seems pretty good to me considering i've done about 5000km on it since i oiled and put the new filter in it.