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help! have bike but no keys!!!
Posted: Wed Feb 01, 2006 1:06 pm
by varden
I picked up my ZX636R race bike project from fowles auctions today.
As i feared it has no keys
Any advice on what i should do next??
Take ign to locksmith??
Take to Pro Kawasaki??
Cut leads off ign and hotwire?
Steering lock is off, but a key would be handy to get into tank too!
Posted: Wed Feb 01, 2006 1:22 pm
by aardvark
If you're going to use it as a track bike, I'd look at doing away with the whole key scenario. Or take it to a locksmith.
Posted: Wed Feb 01, 2006 1:44 pm
by varden
its a stat write off so it will never see the road, i just need the ign to work and have access to the tank just once so i can get one of those blank replacement caps.
Posted: Wed Feb 01, 2006 2:02 pm
by aardvark
You've answered your own question then.

Posted: Wed Feb 01, 2006 2:29 pm
by Strika
Does that model have the Security system with the codes in the keys???? If so, the ECU wont function without them!

Posted: Wed Feb 01, 2006 2:32 pm
by chameleon
a flat blade screwdriver and a hammer
Posted: Wed Feb 01, 2006 3:38 pm
by Stereo
I have your keys.... Pay me $400 for them and you can have them...
otherwise a flatblade screwdriver and a hammer will do the job....
Posted: Wed Feb 01, 2006 4:51 pm
by Plaz
yep as strika said they are security coded and with out the master key, its time for a new ecu
Posted: Wed Feb 01, 2006 4:58 pm
by Barrabob
nah its a 03/04 its a plain key not a electronic jobbie I bought mine new and it came with a little metal tag with a key code on it and i am thinking a call to a dealer might might help.
I am pretty sure you have to use the right blanks with them when they cut them.
Posted: Wed Feb 01, 2006 5:14 pm
by gizmo
Like Bob said hassle a dealer , only hassle they normally use the vin number to get key code, but yours are gone....
I'd probably hassle a good locksmith, my ZX2 key fell out one day I went riding & I had to give him the tank, rear seat lock & ignition & he rekeyed the 3 to be the same & gave me 2 new keys.
It's about $100 for a new genuine tank cap that would still need rekeying the same as ignition if you wanted (1) key to do both.
I think it cost me $100 for (2)keys & all (3) locks to be the same.
Does the bike have an aftermarket can on it?
Posted: Wed Feb 01, 2006 6:00 pm
by HemiDuty
I would personally ditch the keys man, just hotwire the thing to a toggle switch under the seat. As for the fuel cap, the 7 just has the guts taken out of the lock, and you use a screwdriver to open it. Gotta give it that race look....
Posted: Wed Feb 01, 2006 7:17 pm
by Gosling1
HemiDuty wrote:I would personally ditch the keys man, just hotwire the thing to a toggle switch under the seat. As for the fuel cap, the 7 just has the guts taken out of the lock, and you use a screwdriver to open it. Gotta give it that race look....
best advice yet - its a track bike, ditching that ignition barrel will save you 200gms at steering head height.....I'm not kidding, every little bit helps.......
as an old Pommie racer once told me - "Find 16 places to lose and ounce.........and you've lost a pound son.........."
still true today.

Posted: Wed Feb 01, 2006 7:24 pm
by Strika
Yeah if it's not a coded key, fcuk off the whole thing. None of my racers have anything but a battery isolater switch and an inline fuel tap!

Oh and front and rear wheels, and a seat, and an ,..................

Posted: Wed Feb 01, 2006 7:47 pm
by gizmo
Remember it has an EFI pump fella's, but the switch would obviously work.
Posted: Wed Feb 01, 2006 11:15 pm
by varden
Thanks for the responses fellas, you had me worried I'd have to buy a new ECU (power commander??) to get the thing running.
I'll see what a locksmith has to say and failing that I'll go the flat head screwdiver and hammer way
Barrabob wrote:
I bought mine new and it came with a little metal tag with a key code on it and i am thinking a call to a dealer might might help.
That rings a bell i might have one of those!
*edit* duh...for my other bike...
gizmo wrote:Does the bike have an aftermarket can on it?
yup, no brand name on it and it looks kinda rough where the pipe meets the muffler. But other than that it looks to be sound with no gouges and scrapes, reskinned perhaps?