Kawasaki Sportsbike Riders Club - Australia - Online Forum

I have a 2004 zx10r track bike. My house was broken into last week and for some bizarre reason the perps removed the left hand fairing and cut through all the wiring. I have painstakingly resoldered the cuts and replaced the blown 15a ecu fuse.
Obviously it won't start, the F1 light blinks constantly and putting it in code reading mode I get 3 long blinks broken by 5 rapid blinks (immobiliser fail) I don't think I have the master key (I just have one black one) and I'm simply asking for some problem solving logic so that I can't identify if the immobiliser is faulty..

Maybe get an ECU and wiring harness out of the US to save stuffing around. The advantage is they don't have the immobiliser.

Good luck with it but a pox on the dirty mongrels that did it.

Thanks Glen..that's not a bad idea...In fact it's a brilliant idea. Now that I have soldered the cut cables would simply a US ecu work on the existing loom.

US all sounds good until it goes on the dyno and you find that you lost a pile of power, very restricted ECUs they have over the pacific

Yes that had crossed my mind..I'm just picking up a secondhand amp this afternoon after putting my faith in the diagnostic code...fingers crossed

I had an American ECU in the Gumby and it was fine. I think it's the Californian ones you have to avoid but you'd want to check it.

yup was californian only different on 07-08 six, rest of us ecu the same

It's taken a while but my US ecu turned up yesterday, popped it in and I have solved the F1 flashing light problem but the fuel pump isn't priming when the kill switch is closed...now understanding why you said ecu AND wiring harness..

would it be due to a change in resistance of the wiring loom making the ECU think that something dodgy is going on or something along those lines?

I'm not sure mate but I've got my hands on a USA wiring harness and they are identical to the Australian harness. It's something simple I'm sure it is. I've eliminated many things including the ecu relay box, the fall over switch etc..

Man I've tried everything, it now has a new wiring harness, new ecu, new relay box (all USA)....there is no F1 flashing fault codes, I have checked input voltages on most of the ecu pins (fall over switch, butterfly valve, throttle sensors etc etc).
The damn thing turns over fine but the fuel pump isn't going through it's priming cycle....
Any ideas to what could of failed for the ecu not to send the required signal to the fuel pump relay...

Have you checked that it's not the fuel pump itself that is not working?

Nelso wrote:Have you checked that it's not the fuel pump itself that is not working?

Yes I can get the fuel pump to work when I send a neg on the pin from the ecu to the fuel pump relay...something is stopping the ecu from creating the neg from the ecu...I have read on the USA forums that from the ignition switch a reduced voltage is sent to the ecu via a grey cable that is unique to USA ( non mobiliser models). This acts as an anti hot wire device and as I have a US harness and ecu I'm hoping that if I get a resistor on this cable to send a reduced voltage (6volts) back to the ecu I could of cracked it....

A 100 ohm resistor between 12v and the grey cable going to pin 46 on the ecu ( there is nothing connected into it on immobiliser models ) and it started for the first time in 6 months...