Kawasaki Sportsbike Riders Club - Australia - Online Forum

Kawasaki Ninja 1000 2011 ABS (SX). Man I have just about tryed everything to get this little guy off but it just keeps hanging on. Given my attempts to remove it ANTI-CLOCKWISE have failed, I'm woundering if its not a left hand thread. Any advise?

Yep it's on Kawasaki factory tight

Normal thread direction but it's on bloody tight, and I mean really tight. Either get a long 24inch breaker bar, a single hex socket that fits and perhaps a long extender bar for the breaker bar and hang off the darker with the rear wheel locked.

Or

Get a rattle gun



I you the second option

Maybe not the same considering mine is MUCH older but I had to use a 5ft scaffolding bar over my 18 inch breaker bar with an impact socket on the nut and a mate on the bike to hold it steady and apply the front brakes with the front wheel against a kerb!

Seems excessive but it refused to shift any other way and I don't have a compressor for impact tools!

Thanks, yep done the rattle gun, both eletcric and air, two guys on the braker bar but still no joy, any thoughts on the application of heat to the nut?

A half inch rattle gun is usually not enough. A three quarter rattle gun will work if you have one, or just use a 3 foot long pipe on a good breaker bar and it will come undone. Put a piece of wood through the rear wheel to lock it up as the brake wont hold it. You will be surprised at how much force is needed to undo them.

Nelso wrote:A half inch rattle gun is usually not enough. A three quarter rattle gun will work if you have one, or just use a 3 foot long pipe on a good breaker bar and it will come undone. Put a piece of wood through the rear wheel to lock it up as the brake wont hold it. You will be surprised at how much force is needed to undo them.

Get a better half inch rattle gun or check air supply. Half inch should do it easy

Did mine with a electric half inch no worries.

Heat always works also.

Blurr wrote:Did mine with a electric half inch no worries.

Heat always works also.

I've heard some good things about electric rattle guns. I might have to invest in one soon.

Blurr wrote:

Nelso wrote:A half inch rattle gun is usually not enough. A three quarter rattle gun will work if you have one, or just use a 3 foot long pipe on a good breaker bar and it will come undone. Put a piece of wood through the rear wheel to lock it up as the brake wont hold it. You will be surprised at how much force is needed to undo them.

Get a better half inch rattle gun or check air supply. Half inch should do it easy

I never tried with a rattle gun as the pipe on my breaker bar worked fine, I was just going off what others have experienced. The general consensus was that they didn't undo them. There's a big difference between good and cheap rattle guns too. It's good to know that a decent one will work. It pays to get decent tools, eh? By the way, my breaker bar is a Caterpillar, which was made by Snap-on 25 years ago and is still going strong despite me abusing it by hanging pipes off the end of it.

Good to hear mate.

Yep can be over double to triple the bolt break away torque from a bottom to top shelf brand rattle guns.

Bottom shelf may be luck to punch out 300-400 ft pound bolt break away torque where a top shelf one can reach almost 1200.

I could not budge Mel's sprocket nut on her ZX6 with either a 1/2 inch electric rattle gun, or a 3/4 inch air gun from Kennards !!! It was on ridiculously tight. Lost all faith in rattle guns of either type after that.

Breaker bar also did not work on this particular stubborn fucker. Had to take the bike into the dealer workshop - and even those blokes whinged about how tight it was. That nut took 2 applications of the blue chisel (oxy) to loosen up. Have to be very careful with using heat to loosen up the nut, there is an oil seal on the output shaft of every gearbox, too much heat on the sprocket nut will fuck the seal.

Have had a few others that come off with a good 4 foot breaker bar. Use 1" gal pipe with a wall thickness of 1/8 ". Good luck

Don't know if it will work on your sprocket but have had nuts and even bolts like that before on the dozer and although f@#king tight sometimes you can try tightening a bit more with force then try undoing it, sometimes but not all the time this has worked for me