Page 1 of 1

fuel injectors

Posted: Wed Oct 24, 2012 8:44 pm
by vince
Hi,
I own a 1981Kawasaki GPZ 1110 B1. I have found jammed fuel injector on number 4 cylinder. Do any of this group know how to clean these injectors or can anyone provide me with information as to where I can purchase a new set of injectors.
Has anyone fitted an alternative fuel injector and what make and type was used.
I have been told to change over to carbs, but this bike is on historic registration and I want to keep it as original as possible.
Hope to hear from you all soon with answers

Re: fuel injectors

Posted: Thu Oct 25, 2012 8:53 pm
by Gosling1
tell those dickheads who want you to change over to carbs - to go and get royally fucked !!!

Nothing shits me more than people who seek the easy way out. Its crap. These are great bikes, the DFI is good and reliable as long as the basics are looked after (good battery/alternator/reg-rectifier). Keep the wiring in good nick, keep all connectors clean etc.

How do you know the #4 injector is jammed ? You can take the injector bank down to any Bosch dyno-tune outlet and they will clean the injectors for you. These old injectors are a single-hole style - very basic. You can get better 12-hole nozzles from Bosch which will work fine, but they are not cheap. All the injector hardware - nozzles, O-rings etc - is based on Bosch injection so Bosch parts work. This may come as a surprise to the local dyno-tune manager :lol: - but he has probably never been approached by a Kawasaki owner in your area, looking for DFI parts before.

Don't bother with alternatives, OEM stuff works best on these old bikes. You will often see old Kawasaki EFI/DFI stuff advertised on Ebay - so keep your eyes peeled. If you get really stuck let me know - I have a few old DFI/EFI kawasaki's in the 4th Dimension. I hate breaking this stuff but may have an old injector rail with spare injectors.......

8)

Re: fuel injectors

Posted: Fri Oct 26, 2012 1:00 pm
by vince
HI,
I took all 4 injectors out. cylinders 1,2 and 3 looked the same on the tip. They had a small chrome dome sitting in the middle. When pressed gently the dome moved in and out . The 4th injector had the dome recessed and not moving.
I have taken bike to a workshop and they are going to ultrasonically clean the injector to see if it will free up. I have found injectors on ebay after a long search, but they are in America .

Re: fuel injectors

Posted: Fri Oct 26, 2012 1:10 pm
by vince
Hi,
I contacted bosch and they no longer list the injectors. They made no offer of cleaning them either. It is easier to get a car injector than a bike injector. Kawaskai no longer list this part but they know the part number is 490331001.
I agree with you regarding DFI. My 1984 citroen has basically the same system (bosch L-jetronic). Only ploblems I had with the car is the ignition computer faulty with dry joints. Had it fixed and still going.
Gpz1100b1 once started would miss intermittantly when hot an drunning at any speed. Sometimes when idling from a run the motor would stall with problem of starting which appeared to be flooding of motor. When left for a time the bike would restart, fuel evaporated out. This indicated faulty injector to me after thinking about it.

Re: fuel injectors

Posted: Fri Oct 26, 2012 8:50 pm
by Mattjin
Spray some carby cleaner inside the injector from the top, then gently tap the pintle (the little stainless thing hanging out the bottom) on something solid. Block of hard wood works well and does not damage it. Repeat many times. The only way this wont fix it is if you have corrosion which has internally damaged the injector, or if the solenoid itself has failed.

The other way is to again fill with carby cleaner and connect 12V+ from a car battery to one pin of the injector, and tap the other pin to the -ve terminal. Do it quickly and dont hold it on too long or you will damage the solenoid. When it starts to make a louder clicking sound the injector is working. Just keep pumping carby cleaner through it and even try forcing the cleaner back the other direction to flush out the crap. This job can be made easier by purchasing an injector connector from an automotive parts shop. Might cost $10 but will always come in useful.

I would not replace the injectors with those from a newer model unless you have a programmable ECU. Despite the fact that you will most likely never match up the identical flow rate, the dead time will also be different so it might be fine at full throttle but might run rich or lean at idle.

Re: fuel injectors

Posted: Fri Oct 26, 2012 9:02 pm
by Stuzrx
Gotta go with Gos .....end of arguement . hat36.gif

Re: fuel injectors

Posted: Tue Oct 30, 2012 9:40 pm
by Gosling1
vince wrote:.,.....Gpz1100b1 once started would miss intermittantly when hot an drunning at any speed. Sometimes when idling from a run the motor would stall with problem of starting which appeared to be flooding of motor. When left for a time the bike would restart, fuel evaporated out. This indicated faulty injector to me after thinking about it......
I know exactly what this problem is, having experienced the same symptoms on the Black Pearl 15 years ago....

the Pearl is a 1980 Z1000H, and uses the same basic injection setup as the B1. They both use an airflow meter, which measures airflow into the motor and determines the duration of the injector flow. These airflow meters - also send a signal to the fuel pump via a very small set of contact points (just like relay contacts). Over time and several hundred thousand cycles - these small contacts carbon-up. This creates an intermittent signal to the fuel pump - and dodgy running just as you have described.

Its an easy fix - just remove the big square lid on the top of the airflow meter. The meter sits just behind the airbox. You need to use a razorblade around the inside perimeter to break the seal.

Once the lid is off - you will see the contact points which close as soon as the air-flap starts to open. Just drag some clean paper that has been soaked with carbie cleaner between the points a few times. You will be amazed at the amount of carbon that comes out .....once the contact points are clean, just re-fit the lid with a small smear of silicone around the perimeter to keep the moisture out. Re-fit the airflow meter and plug the harness back in........and this should give you a good constant signal to the fuel pump, so that it does not cut out and in intermittently.

If you are still using the OEM fuel pump - it could also be just about fucked by now. A replacement Bosch pump that runs around the 33/36psi is what you need - these can be found at any Bosch dealer.

8)