Kawasaki Sportsbike Riders Club - Australia - Online Forum

Is it possible that the heat from 3 wet session's at the track that my calliper bolt's could have heat seized????....

I got wet's fitted to the ZX6 at the track last time I rode it and went to get tyre's fitted today and the mechanic cant even undo any of the 4 with a breaker bar ....They say they have been way overtightend and dont want to strip or snap a bolt...I spoke to the people who changed my tyre's last and they say they have heat seized and common for ZX6's even after I told them they fitted wet's and had only done 3 pissing down session's....I have had theses wheel's on and off over 10 time's by me and other mechanic's with no issue and even done a few stinking hot day's last summer without them "heat seizing"....Did these people overtighten them?????....No freaking happy

No bloody way!
Let me speak to these uneducated fools. If anything the heat from the calipers then getting cooled by the water would actually make them unseised, I do this all the time at work with anything seized
Heat it up then cold water quench it so it shocks the steel and releases it.
Tell them to go bend one, before going to far try this stuff called freeze and release it's available for
Supercheap and it's made by loctite. Has worked for me, if not then heating up the bolts and quenching them would be my next protocol
With the freeze and release get a bar that sits inside the head so it doesn't burr over and give it a few healthy wachs
Or bit of timber
See how that goes

Never had a caliper bolt sieze, but had a brake pad bolt sieze...
Heat them up with a small flame or similar (I have a small flame torch that uses a refillable lighter base) and spray some WD (or penetrating oil stuff) onto to it. The heat should help draw the WD down the thread, then give it another go..
If you strip the head you'll need to get onto it with eazi outs... and you'll need some good ones..

Edit
yep, what timmy said, he beat me to it..

Over tightening in combination with tension rust from the wet session?

Not sure if this method of removal is applicable to bikes, but its always worked on cars when I have had issue removing stuborn or rusty bolts that have seized.

Soak it with PB blaster, leave it for several hours then attack the bolts with a dose of heat before attempting removal.

Impact Driver! Dave or rattle gun set low to start off with.
& always do this shit yourself, I would never trust the monkeys with anything mechanical.....

Thank's guy's I knew they were blowing smoke up my arse....I'm gunna take the bill with me to EC on saturday (if it get's fixed by then is at a mechanic's now) and if they don't refund me the cost will spend every session in between mine telling my story to their customer's so if you don't see me on the day that's where i will be

i have had caliper bolts get a bit sticky, dip some oil on them when they are out so they stay nice and free.

Lube is a mans best friend,all my bolts when they are reset always get a good lubing

Hey Dave - pm Stace ..... he's the BOLT expert ...

z900/zx9 wrote:Lube is a mans best friend,all my bolts when they are reset always get a good lubing

Sound advice.


I had a rear axel bolt on my GS500 seize. Took a grinder to get it off....

Some times, it happens and it aint any ones fault.

Would do it for you if you were close by, I do this stuff all the time and the worst thing you can do is fark it, by the time guys like me get to see it it usually gets extreme from there on.
In future an occasional small dab of antisieze silver or copper compound on the start of the thread will eliminate this problem, I mean a small dab as a bit goes a long way.

Try the "freeze ya nuts off" stuff in a can first before heating it, dont push it too far or it will make it alot harder if you stuff the hex and although it will take a lot to break those bolts it is possible, only use heat as the last resort and only apply enough to the threaded boss end on the fork mount to move it or you will burn expensive things.

Plenty of ways to do it, one would be to carefully cut the cap heads off, remove the caliper and use visegrips on the bolt shaft but thats destructive and one of the last resort options.
If in doubt goto a good engineering firm like a machining shop.

Why people feel the need to overtighten things is beyond me.

May not even be the thread that has seized!!
I had a calliper bolt on my car seize , I tried everything known to man and it still wouldn't
budge so I ground the head of the bolt off & the calliper fell off and I could screw the bolt out with my fingers, it wasn't even seized but the head off the bolt was the problem.
The bolt had seized on the sholder & the only way I could remove it was grind the farker off.

Cant be ground off as the bolt's in the nissin's are semi inset in the calliper...If it was 1 bolt I could understand but all four are affected.As I said to the guy on the phone yesterday the bike came to them lockwired so they know I do it so there is no need to overtighten them as they will never come loose...Thank's for the offer's of help to get them out and tip's it's already at a bike shop so I'm hopeing for some good new's today,They were waiting to see if they could get a hold of 4 new bolt's before they tried anything drastic....

You'll be having a nice conversation with them ....... madaz that is

Shit if even the experts cant get em to budge, there will be hell to pay