Kawasaki Sportsbike Riders Club - Australia - Online Forum

Hi to all,
l have just bought a 1986 GPX750 with a few miner issues, no surprises therel''m sure .
l haven't ridden for a few years and when you think you going through a mid life crisses what do you do? Buy a bike of course. So any way l have a few questions some of you might be able to help me with.
question ( 1) l'm looking for the glass for the fairing?
(2) l need a front guard or what is the next best thing?
(3) l need inlet rubber ducts that go between carbies and airbox? or would it be easier to go with airpode filters, thats if i cant get inlets. What would the best thing to do here?
(4) my forks have that elct: antie dive system on them , can l disconnect them and take them of and if so will it effect the handling of the bike?

Well guys there are my questions l hope someone can help me solve these problems.

cheers Nick

Hi Nick, welcome

Just sold my GPX750 and now miss it as it was awesome.
Not sure from your post if its the screen or fiberglass fairings but this is the screen: https://www.ajplasticsmanufacturing.com ... isting=374.

I have an electronic copy of the workshop manual. If you want a copy send me a PM.

Cheers

nickprilly wrote:Hi to all,
l have just bought a 1986 GPX750 with a few miner issues, no surprises therel''m sure .
l haven't ridden for a few years and when you think you going through a mid life crisses what do you do? Buy a bike of course. So any way l have a few questions some of you might be able to help me with.
question ( 1) l'm looking for the glass for the fairing?
(2) l need a front guard or what is the next best thing?
(3) l need inlet rubber ducts that go between carbies and airbox? or would it be easier to go with airpode filters, thats if i cant get inlets. What would the best thing to do here?
(4) my forks have that elct: antie dive system on them , can l disconnect them and take them of and if so will it effect the handling of the bike?

Well guys there are my questions l hope someone can help me solve these problems.

cheers Nick

gidday and welcome from this ex-GeePeeX7fiddyR jockey....

1)screen for the Gpx should be available in a few places (try as suggested above or maybe Fleaby)
2) try wreckers or eBay ( Ihad a spare but it went when I sold the bike)
3) the rubber airbox/carb seals were available from Kawasaki last i looked...check a dealer and if not go pods
4) even when new, the bikes antidive ...sorta worked. Mine? I left it all in place and just got some heavier fork oil in there (I used 7.5 weight oil PLUS NEW springs)
problem sorted the Gpx then had a great front end


hth

welcome nick to ksrc.

thanks for that infow on screen i pick one up in qld

thanks for the infow on forks


thanks for the welcome

Hey Nick. I did 60,000klms on my 1986 GPX750R. It was red and white and I still rate it as one of the best bikes I have ever owned. Here is what I would suggest you do, but it's up to you as to what you want to spend.

1.Screen- There are a few after market screens available, but try Ebay or the Wreckers first. I found a tender email to work well when looking for parts.
2. Front gaurd should be available from the wreckers, but you will have to have the crack repaired and reinforced before you mount it, otherwise it ends up collapsing onto the front tyre and the tyre eats it! How do I know it will be cracked???..........they all are!! (you could modify a gaurd from something else, but it may require some fiddling)
3. in the interest of maintaining a rideable and serviceable bike, I stick with the airbox rather than go down the Pod Filter route. I don;t care what anyone tells you, they are a bitch in the wet!!!!! Try to buy new rather than used, as used is exactly that and you may end up with ones which still leak. Try ebay if you can't get new ones from Kawasaki.
4. Remove the Anti Dive as it does nothing! It was supposed to stiffen the compression damping in the forks while the front brakes were being activated. But in reality it was more marketing gimick than actually having any real effect. Some worked OK, but it makes the forks harsh. Remove the system in it's entirety, and place block off plates over the bottom of the fork legs where the Anti Dive bolts on. Don't go to thicker fork oil as someone has suggested, as this well start causing Hydraulic lock issues with GPX forks. Better to use a slightly lighter oil, with a higher oil height. Even better again, is to have them resprung and revalved, but once again this is dependant on how much you are willing to throw at the old girl! The rear shock, if still the original unit, is an air adjustable one. Most fail and are replaced with either an aftermarket, or an adapted factory shock from something else. Mine had the standard shock in it, which was terrible. But at the time, I didn't know that!!

I wish you luck with it, they are getting old now and parts are becoming harder to source. Be patient and use the net lots and you will eventually find what you want or something which is close enough to modify to fit.

hi and welcome mate ........

Strika wrote:. Better to use a slightly lighter oil, with a higher oil height. .

dont do this in a Gpx.... it causes a hydraulic lock up in the forks and it WILL throw you down the road
the first time you have to use the brakes ..I know it happened to me on mine and when i discussed
it with my local dealer, he said it was a known vice with GPx7fiddys He told me the proper airgap
is a must...too high and the forks go rigid and it was better to go heavier oil with decent springs and the
correct airgap

hth

Smitty wrote:

Strika wrote:. Better to use a slightly lighter oil, with a higher oil height. .

dont do this in a Gpx.... it causes a hydraulic lock up in the forks and it WILL throw you down the road
the first time you have to use the brakes ..I know it happened to me on mine and when i discussed
it with my local dealer, he said it was a known vice with GPx7fiddys He told me the proper airgap
is a must...too high and the forks go rigid and it was better to go heavier oil with decent springs and the
correct airgap

hth

Smitty, your dealer is a dickhead then. The hydraulic lock is caused by way too much Hi-speed compression. Heavier oil aggravates this issue, not the other way around. BTW, Oil is used for damping, not air. A lighter oil can only illeviate compression locking, not the other way around.