Kawasaki Sportsbike Riders Club - Australia - Online Forum

as per my other post in this section (G A S)... i will be changing my spark plugs once i get all the F@rkin' LRP thru it (i've been using the stuff for a year! gulp)... so anyway, i have the manual and i'm about to go read it, but is it a difficult job changing the buggers out, and how many, uh, well, i guess i'm about to find out, oh yeah, 4 i'd guess eh? not like the alfa t. spark or the early datsun one on intake and one at exhaust per cylinder......
hhhhmmmmm...
also, what's a good spark plug for the 6R? they do split fires or some such silly platinum ones here?? (man i'm pissed and concerned about this shitty ass LRP stuff.... F@rck me! )

NGK??

Yankee

the Kwika specc'd NGKs (can't remember the code)
are as good as anything

Splitfires and Platinum (at $25 a plug )
are not a sure fire success on the 6r...
and
if you intend doing the plug change your self
get a plug spanner to suit...from your dealer..about $10
the bike NGKs do NOT fit car type plug sockets or spanners

cheers

thx smitty found out they r the NGK cr9e.... $18 for all of 'em... may hold off on doing this tho.... just run some good ol BP Ultimate thru it a few tank fulls, and see how that goes.....

Smitty1955 wrote:Yankee

....snip

if you intend doing the plug change your self
get a plug spanner to suit...from your dealer..about $10
the bike NGKs do NOT fit car type plug sockets or spanners

cheers

according to the manual u have to use a special tool and from memory it comes in the bike tool kit (i think).

i changed my bike plugs using a normal spark plug socket and a pair of long nose pliers and it worked great. (dodgy brother's mechanical repairs)

thats it, cr8 & cr9 spec plugs , i just put some bog standard ngk's in mine and it's helped it a bit with being smoother & not bogging down as much if i go hard on the gas . oh yeah, the plugs are a 18mm one. i just bought a 18mm socket and the adapter so i can use it on my 3/8 sitchrome set

If you feel like paying 20 - 25 bucks a plug you can fit iridium ones. You get a more intense spark and therefore a better burn. Its probably a negligible advantage on the street but every 100th of a hp counts on the track. A mechanic mate said on a 6r you can't really feel it but you get slightly better fuel consumption.

Go to the nearest Caltex servo' and buy a bottle of TECHRON Concentrate. It is basically a fuel system cleaner, but it works extra well on carbs and fuel injectors.

Put the whole bottle in your tank, then fill the tank with Caltex PULP. The techron will dissolve varnish and gum that the LRP may have allowed to form.

Don't top the tank up until it gets down to reserve both before and after you use the techron.
It won't harm your engine and will usually clear minor carb deposits.

BTW Shell LRP is basically ULP with Valvemaster added ( a bit like BP Zoom !!)

Go to the nearest Caltex servo' and buy a bottle of TECHRON Concentrate. It is basically a fuel system cleaner, but it works extra well on carbs and fuel injectors.

Put the whole bottle in your tank, then fill the tank with Caltex PULP. The techron will dissolve varnish and gum that the LRP may have allowed to form.

Don't top the tank up until it gets down to reserve both before and after you use the techron.
It won't harm your engine and will usually clear minor carb deposits.

BTW Shell LRP is basically ULP with Valvemaster added ( a bit like BP Zoom !!)

Marty you get that "2 Stroke" lol just as well Aninja posted twice so marty dont furk it up .
Cheers Brett

Hey no 2 Smoke jokes !!!

Hope it all turns out OK Yankee... These guys know what they are on about so listen up OK!

Yankee wrote:thx smitty found out they r the NGK cr9e.... $18 for all of 'em... may hold off on doing this tho....

How long since your last plug change. I've had my J-model 6R for just on 40,000km now, and it's asked for plugs with a sharp dropoff in bottom-end torque every 10,000km, like clockwork.

To get at them, remove the seats, tank and airbox (top and bottom halves come off separately; check your filter and clean if, as would be likely, necessary-the ram air drags all kinds of rubbish in there), unplug the coils (integrated with plug caps; no HT leads) and go nuts with your 16mm sparkplug socket.

To get at the #1 and #4 cylinder plugs, you'll need to scrunch the rubber air duct back into its frame passage, which will still get in the way; due to the camchain being on the right and the cylinders thus sitting lopsidedly to the left on the engine, the #1 cylinder plug is markedly more difficult to get at. With my socket set, I have to first drop the plug socket into the plug tunnel, then send the socket extension in after it, and only then attach the ratchet to the top of that. The reverse is required for when you're actually pulling the undone plug out.

just run some good ol BP Ultimate thru it a few tank fulls, and see how that goes.....

Not to be a smartarse, or anything, but why would you think running the bike on LRP would be such a good idea that you'd persist with it for a year?

No premium anywhere near you, or...?

If you need a hand sing out and I will give you one, it cant be any worse than doing it on a cbr250 probably take 1 hour topsthe first time.

Lets all help yankee spend his vast amounts of cash I think you replace your air filter to while you have it in bits. May as well do the engine oil as well. Come to think of it when was the last time you changed your frork oil,brake fuild,head bearings,chain and sprockets,brake pads and had the shock serviced?
Just put the RIGHT fuel in it, ride the damn thing and see how it goes!
Then if it doesn`t run right do something about it.
Oh, You do get the bike serviced dont you ??????????
Cya mart
Stu

Sounds like a good excuse for a QLD KSRC BBQ and a good bike stripping!! mmmm bike stripping!!

nothing like having 10 chiefs all standing around with a beer and burnt snag in some bread pointing at the bike and someone doing the work!!!