Kawasaki Sportsbike Riders Club - Australia - Online Forum

Hoping for some tips re setting the suspension on my dinosaur. I have a workshop manual which will be quite usefull once I am fluent in german...

Q's
1. Air adjustments. How much air pressure should be in the forks and back shock.

2. Stupid antidive. 1-4 adjustments, which is highest effect, which is lowest and is there an easy way to blank the whole show off.

3. Rear shock. 1-4 adjustments, which is more, which is less. It feels like the higher the number the harder the shock but I might be wrong. (its bloody stiff anyway)

4. Tyre pressures. BT45's I read a tyre chart that I found somewhere on the net and it reccomended pressures around 38psi for the front and more for the rear.

Cheers,

thatp1g wrote:Hoping for some tips re setting the suspension on my dinosaur. I have a workshop manual which will be quite usefull once I am fluent in german...

Q's
1. Air adjustments. How much air pressure should be in the forks and back shock.

2. Stupid antidive. 1-4 adjustments, which is highest effect, which is lowest and is there an easy way to blank the whole show off.

3. Rear shock. 1-4 adjustments, which is more, which is less. It feels like the higher the number the harder the shock but I might be wrong. (its bloody stiff anyway)

4. Tyre pressures. BT45's I read a tyre chart that I found somewhere on the net and it reccomended pressures around 38psi for the front and more for the rear.

Cheers,

If memory serves, 6 psi max in forks, rear dont remember.
Antidive 1 is lowest 4 highest, no way to disable, just set it on 2 or 3 and forget it.
Rear shock is the adjuster at the bottom of shock, if so its rebound 1 least 4 most rebound.

Test sag with and without rider and set suspension accordingly.



Neil

I just wound everything to the max and put enough air in the rear shock (as a ride height adjuster) to make it headshake at 180k
I'd always beleived from MX that the air valves on the forks were to RELEASE pressure but let the air out the RX and it was a PIG.
For some reason it used to scallop the front tyre and wear it out as quick as the back

My XJ900 had similar crap - air adjustable forks, anti dive. Anti-dive never really bothered me, aside from overcomplicating something I didn't think needed complication.

Forks took between 2 and 8 psi, and you need a special low pressure compressor to fill them - the tyre hose at a servo will blow them out. All the rest, no idea. My bike had Hagon preload only shocks on the rear, and they are ok. I even have them on the ER-5.

Oh just remembered, I ended up getting a link made at Enzed to join the two forks together, made it a damn sight easier to top up.

[quote="frogzx12rFor some reason it used to scallop the front tyre and wear it out as quick as the back [/quote]

Funny you should say that, it's what lead me to believe that my tyre pressures were wrong. I have never owned a bike that could scallop fronts in 200 k's. (two up and twisty tho). I think it's a combination of the higher profile 16 inch front (big sidewall) and sheer weight.

the link on the forks is a great idea, i have done that before on an RG500, but to keep the pressures even in the forks constantly in that case.

I got a mate who is a tyre guru, does bridgestone for all the race meets, will get him to do a little research for me.

Thanks people, you are without doubt a friendly bunch of buggers.

thatp1g try http://www.gpz900r.org/gpz900r/index.php or http://www.gpzzone.co.uk/gpzforum/
i was a member when i had the RX
heaps of info on there