Kawasaki Sportsbike Riders Club - Australia - Online Forum

I was taught the same method as Mat above, and for me it works fine and feels natural. Never had an off yet (touch wood) and have had a few scary moments so something must be working!!

I will go with the strika post, i was taught to use the rears in a emergency fractionally before the front it settles the bike and stops excessive dive and definitly makes the bike stop way faster.

I also use it into corners to help with line and settle it a bit.

Question....you overcook a corner by more than a bit up the hills you get on your front brakes what happens????

Answer your bike stands up and you plunge off the side of a cliff and hope like hell theres some really thick lantana down there.

question 2 instead you hit the back brake which you use a fair bit and the bike may even turn in the point being in a emergency situation useing the rear brake the bike will still turn but if your hard on the front only good luck with that.

Anyway i use them more than i should but they have their uses especially if you have a undersprung front end.

I also agree with the above, the reason i was given is that a little pressure on the back will dip the front flattening the tyre out and giving you a larger surface area to use for stopping, instead of skidding the front wheel.
I also agree with the cornering thing, sometimes going down a large corner (like spit hill) i will put the front brakes on just to feel how much they stand the bike up and how much fight you need to keep turning.

jewjew wrote:I also agree with the above, the reason i was given is that a little pressure on the back will dip the front flattening the tyre out and giving you a larger surface area to use for stopping, instead of skidding the front wheel.
I also agree with the cornering thing, sometimes going down a large corner (like spit hill) i will put the front brakes on just to feel how much they stand the bike up and how much fight you need to keep turning.

Yeah kinda!!...When you apply the rear brake by itself, you will notice that it squats, thus moving the weight distribution backwards ever so slightly. It has nothing to do with flattening the front tyre down. Front brake pressure will do this with weight transfer all by itself! I think what you are referring to is that if you just grab a handfull of front lever really quickly, rather than squeesing it first to transfer the weight, it is more prone to locking, as weight transfer has not flattened the tyre. But the rear doesn't really effect the front at all in this regard!

my 2 cents

no drinking no riding

although its only taking 44 years to get that part right

unfortunately i really only learn from mistakes

a/i can put my bike on the stand w/out falling over
b/apply rear brake w/out locking up & binning bike


and i guessing im not the only one ?????
too many f$$%^ ups to mention
voting liberal / vietnam / iraq war
yada yada the list goes on

so learn the lesson
and build a bridge >>>get over it

go riding everday experience learn remember put shit into action

but most of all return home after the ride in one piece
tommorows another (ride) day

i still ride like a nanna
but everday in most ways i wanna get a bit smarter
and not do stupid shit when im on the bike

hidepenny you should do the try the yarra ranges rideday
that mick dundee attended cheap but valuable and or the other
courses at your finger tips
good insurance m8

when i get on my bike for a ride
im in combat mode
and the process is to eliminate possible dangers
that i have control over
my actions / riding gear / bike condition etc etc

just my thoughts
mick

Thanks Strika and Maty10 for going into greater detail. I do agree with Strika that you do need to apply rear slightly before front. The time difference is not great however and is influenced by suspensions, going up hill V's downhill, etc. According to some manufacturers their research has shown that many riders do not use both brakes when braking and hence have introduced "combined braking". I am not a fan of this as personally I like to control the braking bias and feel it can create a false sense of security. Anyhow there are other bike makers other than Honda who are now doing this. I do believe it should be encouraged at the learner and provisional levels though to create perhaps an understanding (as it should be explained at this level to a degree) and to prevent bad habits forming or not using the rear brake at all, or the opposite effect and becoming like some harley riders and only ever using the rear).

Maty10 is spot on with the set up and squeeze method and his describtion is brilliant too. This method should be used every time you use the brakes. The only thing that changes is how hard and fast you squeeze.

Great input here.

Cheers

Maty10 is spot on with the set up and squeeze method and his describtion is brilliant too. This method should be used every time you use the brakes. The only thing that changes is how hard and fast you squeeze.

Great input here.

I have to agree.

Yep all of the above and even use the rear on the way out a bit to stop it spinning so much (on the 12 NOT the old Duc or NSR ) until it is up straight, didnt know I was doing it until someone else pointed out my brake light was on, on the way OUT of corners ... anyone else do this ??

jewjew wrote:I also agree with the above, the reason i was given is that a little pressure on the back will dip the front flattening the tyre out and giving you a larger surface area to use for stopping, instead of skidding the front wheel.

The friction is largely independent of the area. A pneumatic tyre will flatten when loaded, but the flattening is not the reason you get extra grip. You need the downward force to get the braking force. Ask for the maximum braking force before you apply the extra downward force (due to weight transfer) and you skid.

hidepenny wrote:life goes on until after work friday drink, i had a bit too much and decided to ride home

First i get caught drink riding and riding on a 600CC bike with only a P plate and then i get my license suspended because i have no demerit points left

but instead none of the officers came over and got me and they just watched me started my bike again and FUCKED off

So let me get this straight:

You are a P plater riding a 600cc sports bike whilst intoxicated, with zero demerit points and a suspended licence?

You are an idiot.

I suspect you are a strong candidate for a Darwin award.

QLDZX6R wrote:

Colette wrote:HP, you say you misread a traffic light - are you colourblind?

You say you rode after drinking - are you serious??

Are you sure riding a bike is for you?

If you want to misread traffic lights and drink before travelling a car is the way to go..... lol

but seriously Hidepenny.....

If you dont take riding seriously, then the laws of physics are going to apply sooner than you like....

If you are making a mistake like locking up the rear, I strongly recommend you go to PI and do a superbike school or something.....

Riding well is not just about getting around corners quickly, it is more important to make good decisions when you are in an emergency situation...

that said, I am glad you didnt lose your license or something more serious.... Lets hope you learned from it...

Gosh, I sound like an old man!

Stereo wrote:

QLDZX6R wrote:

Colette wrote:HP, you say you misread a traffic light - are you colourblind?

You say you rode after drinking - are you serious??

Are you sure riding a bike is for you?

If you want to misread traffic lights and drink before travelling a car is the way to go..... lol

but seriously Hidepenny.....

If you dont take riding seriously, then the laws of physics are going to apply sooner than you like....

If you are making a mistake like locking up the rear, I strongly recommend you go to PI and do a superbike school or something.....

Riding well is not just about getting around corners quickly, it is more important to make good decisions when you are in an emergency situation...

that said, I am glad you didnt lose your license or something more serious.... Lets hope you learned from it...

Gosh, I sound like an old man!

Well said Stereo. For a old man you go allright!!!!

buy a f(*&ing lottery ticket dude, it was your lucky day.

i hate people that ride bigger bikes than what they should, the L's and P's period is there for a reason. SO YOU LEARN NOT TO BE A DICKHEAD on a smaller CC bike.

Stereo wrote:
If you are making a mistake like locking up the rear, I strongly recommend you go to PI and do a superbike school or something.....

Riding well is not just about getting around corners quickly, it is more important to make good decisions when you are in an emergency situation...

I'm not sure that Level 1 at CSS would help HP in this situation. Most of the attention would be focused on getting him around a corner quicker (somewhat safer). Braking is not mentioned once, in fact you can't even use the brakes in the first 3 sessions.

Personally I see HP has 3 choices.
1. Prove Darwin correct and add to the statistics they ram down our throughts all day long.
2. Have another scare sometime down the track, and either bin it painfully, or scare himself to the point of giving up and flogging it off.
3. Attend an advanced riding course and admit to the errors in his riding style and go about correcting them. There are heaps of courses to help, something from RideTek, HART, Stay Upright, etc.

BikerBoy wrote:i hate people that ride bigger bikes than what they should

Spare a thought for those of us who can already ride bigger bikes - but who didn't get around to getting a licence until now.
I hate that I have to have L' and P's because I never owned a registered bike - but my head mechanic - who hasn't been on a bike for 30 years - can jump on anything he likes, even though he can't ride it properly.