Kawasaki Sportsbike Riders Club - Australia - Online Forum

Told ya move to Melb

Ahh and that'd only cost me about ten times as much as any other solution, including getting a dealer to do it

Tones wrote:These are the clearances I run (from the manual I have)

.08mm - .13mm for the intake valve clearance
.11mm - .16mm for the exhaust valve clearance

Just in case some people are confusing "thou" with "mm".

Hope it helps

Cheers

exactly, given that he said "the valve clearance is 0.003 of an inch " previously. 0.003 of an inch is 0.075mm, so a little tight, but not too far off. remember these bikes are japanese, their gaps, bolts, sockets, plugs, threads, frigging everything is metric. Except for tyres & rims that is...

mike-s wrote:.... Except for tyres & rims that is...

isn't that bizarre ?? I mean, we have been metric now for what, 30 years ?? and its still 17" rims, 5.5" or 6" wide etc, no different in the car world, you still get 16",17", 18" rims advertised everywhere, and every kid knows how good 20" or 21" wheels look...... its just strange........

back on topic........

As a general 'rule of thumb', valve clearances for *most* jap bikes can be set around 4-7 thou exhaust , and 3-6 thou inlet........

Only use these specs if you don't have access to factory specs ( which in most cases will be close to these specs anyway....) - You should always set the clearances a bit on the 'looser' side, as they tend to tighten up as the valves 'drop' into the valve seats....

'Racing' clearances ( when every little bit counts), can be closed up a bit, I used to run 3 thou inlet and exhaust, and check the clearance after each round ( it hardly varied over a season....)

Yeah 'twas my bad, it's kinda obvious that it's metric (mm) actually, i didn't pay enough attention when reading it!

Nothing like a dodgy home mechanic to eff things up ey