Kawasaki Sportsbike Riders Club - Australia - Online Forum

bonester wrote:Had em on my ZZR. Pulled the valve cover and liquid steeled the holes in the cover then removed the reed valves on top- did it to both my ZZR11 and 12- runs smoother. Maybe some small power increase.

I removed my plumbing from the ZRX and the ZZR. Didn't remove the reed valves though, is there any need for that? Stopped all of the bac-firing, and it is easier to do maintenance.

I used Ivan's Block-off plates on both.


Bill.

Must be something in the air, my bike stutters here & there every so often. But it was a bit more of a chilly morning this morning than the last few days.

It was alright once it warmed up properly (like to full oerating temp) BUT it IS running hot.

no sign of a prob when cold is there?

well, double points go the better of me.
it only took 10mins and about $4 worth of bits...
i blocked off the kleen air pipe from the airbox, after sucking and blowing on the pipe to make sure it wasnt a breather... its a one way jobbie, all good

but i actually put a tap on it, so i can turn it on and off. now i can test it
talk about auzzie enginuity
didnt even have to take the tank off. and i can just turn it on or off
Woo Hoo!!
now i just have get rid of the monstrosity that kawasaki call exhaust pipes...

good job Wattie, the cheap mods are always the best mods.

/me thinks about having put ducati pipes on his gpx.....

uhh cheapest isn't ALWAYS the best Hoffy.

I have been listening to this thread and wondering if I should pull the clean air off my zzr11? Thing is, I have no backfiring or anything like that, though it does tend to run a "little" rough under 4000. Perhaps I will put a bung in the pipe that comes from the airbox to the reed valve setup and close the hole in the airbox and see if I can notice any difference. I cant see the point in removing the reed valves themselves as they would make no difference just sittling there idle.

any kawa will run nicer with it disabled


but dont let anybody tell you will gain any HP from it, as the kleen system is only working at light cruise if im not mistaken?

frank on the new bikes they pump air into the exhaust to burn of the excess fuel, it seems to be a thing more with later efi bikes all the popping and burping off the throttle.

didnt seem to be a huge leap in performance but the engine sounded more like a engine off the throttle/ less busy belching and farting which seemed to me to make it easier to know what is going on.

Probably wasnt nesecary to do it to the older bikes to meet emmissions.

its no different to late 70's/early 80's cars that had a smog pump to pump air into the exhaust manifold to make sure everything was burnt

I was GOING to put my Kleen Air back on as I am FINALLY going to ta Dyno but after talkign to LAE Engineering in Geebung (recommended by ozZX12R members) I was informed to leave it OFF....

resurrected

Hey guys,
Sorry for the revival, but i want to get the KLENN off my Z1000, i am a little lost with all the terms so can anyone give me the specifics or some pictures of what i am looking for.
Thanks guys would be apprciated

take your tank off. there is a rubber hose about 1/2 inch wide running along the rocker cover from 1 side to the other.
in the middle is a T piece whick runs it back to the airbox.

Block the hose that comes from the airbox, anyway you like. i uses a small inline garden tap. Nylex brand.

Madkaw did my 10 with one of those rubber caps that go on the bottom of a chair leg.

Muzzy makes block off plates that just block the holes on the rocker cover. blocking the hose does the same thing.