Kawasaki Sportsbike Riders Club - Australia - Online Forum

yeah thats what i said, "it aint a 2 stroke" and ive owned 3 of now, and never felt like a powerband, but they do just rev hard at the 12k-18/19000rpm
and should i tighten the clutch adjustment?.
and thanks ill ring up ALL fixed today and maybe book it in for friday as its my next day off.
yeah i've replaced the battery with a to market battery from hawkesbury honda had to replace old one as it had a collapsed cell.
does any1 know what the benefits of the new lithium bike batteries are?
guys i cant thankyou enough for the help you's have given.

Hope you get it sorted soon. Yes they really take off once you get over 10k rpm, no need to run all the way to redline though. Let us know what the outcome is with the shop.

hey my buzz box/junk box is buzzing every time i hit the starter i bought a new one and its doing the same thing.. could it be the solanoid causing this?

Or loose wire somewhere?

Umm guys been six months still trying to find a store/person to fix my bike. keep being told not to even bring it to them. if any1 can help me im still clutching my motorbike everyday.. id like to just walk up and hit the button and have it start. have switched to iridium plugs, replaced a fuel filter again, cleaned carby x2, re-adjusted jets x4 fuel lines are fine. battery is 100% starts fine when its hot. im over trying to find someone to fix it. need some ideas on directly what the cause is.

Is the choke working?
Does it crank over fine when cold? Just won't start?

zx2rfan wrote:thanks heaps for your help, oh by the way, doesn't matter what gear im in if i roll the throttle on all the way it will gain revs then when it hits approximately somewhere between 8000-12000rm it just like skips and revs to the redline, ive been told these bikes have powerband not sure if that is "true" and either way i dont believe that is how powerband should kick in, and it feels like the bike isnt going anywhere like the clutch is engaging itself..
Does this mean the clutch is slipping? or on its way out?

Sounds like a typical rev limiter in the ignition cutting the engine at high revs but im not sure what the ignition system is meant to allow it to rev to? I cant see it having anymore power above 12000RPM? More revs = power to a certain point then it drops off

A common thing that will cause difficulty starting is blocked pilot jets, Basically the carby jets that feed the fuel in the lower rev range, I would fit some larger jets than stock as the stock jetting on most bikes is usually too lean which is not good for any motor
I had similar trouble on a dirt bike & removed the carby 3 times but only fixed the trouble on the 3rd go when I fitted a new pilot jet, Now that bike barely even needs the choke at all, I recently did some similar work on my ZXR 750 carbs with the same results

This forum may be a great help too>
http://forums.ninja250.org/
http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_a_carb ... _explained

http://www.dirtygirlmotorracing.com/zxr ... etors.html

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VYRUfQ_p15o

This has been asked a few times whether or not the choke is working or on & what do the plugs look like? To check this you need to know if the fuel is getting in when starting the bike by checking the plugs after you have attempted to start it, If they are wet then the carbys & jets should be fine, If the plugs are dry then it may be a lack of compression or another thing to check may be your ignition coils, They may be sparking but due to the age they may not have enough output for a good spark, DYNA might make coils to suit & they are not that expensive either

Could also be an intake leak on a few cylinders at the carb boots? Many many different things to try, Just eliminate them one by one

I would just start collecting the parts like the timing chain & guides, gaskets & if possible some new carby boots etc etc
If you can find a parts fiche put the needed part numbers into ebay.com ebay.com.au & ebay.co.uk & you will eventually find the parts cheap

I bought the timing chain & guides & lots of other brand new OEM parts for my ZXR750 at around 1/3 of what they would cost in OZ

(NINJAINOZ) well i have the cam chain and cam tension. will get a new head gasket.. the last time i pulled the plugs out they were a tad like rusty and i replaced with brand new iridium plugs no difference in starting. .. will see if its getting fuel in the morning with your method. pretty dam sure its getting fuel (could be wrong have tried alot of ways ) thankyou heaps for your response best one ive had in the last 8 months of owning this bike. me and my father are pretty mechanically minded but this has just got us stumped. no intake leaks on the carby boots though. i have a feeling it requires a top end rebuild. -.- how much you looking for a full engine rebuild though?. Appreciate all your imput NINJA imma buy some oversized jets.though never had any problems like this with the last 2 ninja's i owned, both well looked after and refurbished and sold. this bike i cant even seem to fix it to refurbish it. just seem to keep wasteing money on shit i dont need.

(Timmy rocks) why dont you read the post mate.. im tired of explaining this problem im the person who started this thread 8 months ago.

also timmy wont dont you read the title of the thread. ( WONT START WHEN COLD.)
dont mean to be arguementive but this problem is pissing me off.

and Ninja, can you please right me a checklist, of things i can rule out.

I would work it the other way, Eliminate/rule out things as you go, Dont really need to go in any certain order, Cheapest options first are usually the go

1 Check plugs when cold starting, Wet or dry?
2 Check compression
3 Check coils / spark output
4 fit new pilot / slow jets, Great prices for jets here> http://www.power-barn.com/servlet/the-I ... Categories
5 Check & clean the choke circuit in the carby's when you do the jets

Im guessing you squirted some aerostart or similar around the carby boots to check them? Does it drop back to idle quickly after being revved?
Not many other options really except maybe what was mentioned by others? Unlikely but CDI, Valve clearances, Timing etc etc

If you eliminate each bit one at a time then when you get it sorted you will have a smooth running bike, Let us know if you get it sorted

Well just quietly I can't be fucked reading through your hard to read dribble posts!
Trying to help with the easiest things.

Check your valve clearances but seeing as your so mechanically minded you probably have already thought of that

And I did read the title, what gets the bike going from cold??????

Yeah ninja a bit of start ya bastard was used actually. returns to idle quick no stickiness, the throttle was sticky big time when i first got her. have replaced throttle cable at same time i did clutch cable as my clutch cable snapped. Valve clearances are my strongest feeling. But a bloke across the road recons its something electrical, hes been rebuilding bikes for years if its mechanical he said he shouldnt of became a mechanic... and thats where im having trouble trying to eliminate electrical issues. new battery, solanoid. might try a new coil thanks for your help Ninja..

I have a new set of Dyna ( DC1-2 ) coils & ( DW-800 ) leads on the way, It cost about $167 for the coils & leads incl postage from the USA

Price a new OEM coil, It will scare you, I would not bother with one from any wreckers
You may be able to match up a set of coils but there is none listed for the ZX2R / ZXR 250 on the DYNA site, Google the part number & look at the images to match them up if they are the correct output etc>

http://www.dynaonline.com/skins/product ... kes/coils/

SPark plugs had a dust like powder on the tips of them which looked like rust. Iridium Spark plugs, they have a good spark, cleaned and put them back in. compression seems like the biggest factor