Posted: Wed Feb 07, 2007 11:05 am
As you are only halfway through the job - a few more tips:
1. get a low-range torque wrench - 20Nm isn't much. Failing that, use a very short handle on your socket and just nip them up.
2. you'll need a micrometer as the size marking/etching on the shims is not always legible.
3. the good news is you can get a good all-metal micrometer for $25 these days.
4. line up the cam sprocket marks with the cam box gasket surface (with crank marker on 1 and 4) then use some tippex or nail varnish to mark the adjacent cam pins to the cam sprocket marks (as a reference for later refitting of the cams)
5. only remove 1 cam at a time and use the other to hold the cam chain up.
6. use the tensioner with the rachet advanced to lock the cam chain prior to tightening down the cam caps when refitting the cams.
7. once the cams are back in then you'll have to refit the tensioner a second time with the rachet retarded before turning the motor and letting the spring set the correct running tension.
8. a small strong magnet is ideal for removing the bucket and shim together - strong enough to separate the oil stiction between bucket and valve collet
9. I used a couple of eggboxes marked with each cylinder number to keep the shims and buckets together in the right relative positions.
10. Remember that you'll probably be able to swap some shims between valves. You can also check with your dealer to see if they will swap the shims you need for less than the $6.00 (i think) that precisionshims charges for new ones
Good luck, let us know how you get on.
1. get a low-range torque wrench - 20Nm isn't much. Failing that, use a very short handle on your socket and just nip them up.
2. you'll need a micrometer as the size marking/etching on the shims is not always legible.
3. the good news is you can get a good all-metal micrometer for $25 these days.
4. line up the cam sprocket marks with the cam box gasket surface (with crank marker on 1 and 4) then use some tippex or nail varnish to mark the adjacent cam pins to the cam sprocket marks (as a reference for later refitting of the cams)
5. only remove 1 cam at a time and use the other to hold the cam chain up.
6. use the tensioner with the rachet advanced to lock the cam chain prior to tightening down the cam caps when refitting the cams.
7. once the cams are back in then you'll have to refit the tensioner a second time with the rachet retarded before turning the motor and letting the spring set the correct running tension.
8. a small strong magnet is ideal for removing the bucket and shim together - strong enough to separate the oil stiction between bucket and valve collet
9. I used a couple of eggboxes marked with each cylinder number to keep the shims and buckets together in the right relative positions.
10. Remember that you'll probably be able to swap some shims between valves. You can also check with your dealer to see if they will swap the shims you need for less than the $6.00 (i think) that precisionshims charges for new ones
Good luck, let us know how you get on.