new airfilter & stalling

Hey all,
Bike is a 2010 ZX6R.... *let the noob story begin!*

Sooooooooooooooooo......
Did a straight forward job today, which i changed my air filter, *one would think its a walk in a park*
took about an hr because i was noob...

After all was done, i went to start the bike and let it idle... started up fine, ran fine, but after the engine was warm, at about 60'ish degrees the bike stalled, and wouldnt start....
after 20seconds it started up again and ran for about 10 seconds then stalled again.... so i tried to start it again, but this time add alittle revs to it, and it started but stalled as soon as the throttle was released....
then i thought to myself, lets twist the idle control knob, so i did and it took a few fire ups before it idled... and then after tweeking the idle it stayed on,
but now i got the problem when i just give it a quick twist on the throttle to about 3-5k rev and then let it drop back to idle... the lights dim slightly for a second and then the bike goes back to normal....

(to add to the embarrassment i dropped a screw down the side of the airbox & frame.... and cant find it someone kill me now please!)
i havent taken it out for a ride or anything yet to try it out but if anyone has any experience from a similar situation or any advice, it would be greatly appreaciated...

thanks guys
and have a happy and safe New Year

It probably has nothing to do with the airfilter itself... the bike should run even without it. I'd check the injector connections to see if you didn't accidently pull too hard on any of them whilst removing the airbox cover or something like that. Also check both fuel lines clips to see if they're properly clipped on (there's one under the tank and one that sort of connects to the airbox - it's the hose that makes removing the screw in bottom of the airbox a PITA).

awesome, i'll check it out when the sun is back up...
thanks EDU
*yea that bottom screw was a massive pain... *

Like EDU said check all your connections are ok.

So you've replaced the air filter, have you replaced the exhaust? Just a slip-on? Slip-on plus link pipe(removes the silencer box)? The last comment plus dug out the cat from the headers? Or a full system?

After adding a filter, slip-on, link pipe and digging out the cat the topend on mine was shite and a dyno tune showed it was v V Very lean and the PCV corrected it. Runs much better since

Supposedly they are lean as standard to help emissions or something.

As before check all your connections, if you've got either a full system or dug the cat converter out of the headers, be thinking a PC to ensure its all ok

Also has yours had the recall completed? The (hope this is the correct name) 'rectifier' replaced?

haha, rectifier... for some reason i thought of something else.....
i've got a Two Brothers carbon fibre slip-on, and thats about it.

hmm so you reckon having a tune would help? dam... i was hoping this wouldnt affect the tuning required....
is there a way to reset the bikes stock auto tuning? (im not sure if this applies to bikes, but im pretty sure that new car's ecu does adjustments to its tune in the early parts of its life. and there are ways to reset the cars ECU to make it learn its mixure again... )

It helps but it's not necessary... I'm running a full exhaust on mine atm with just the stock ECU and it runs just fine 95% of the time. The other 5% are when you're getting back on the throttle mid turn and it pops and struggles a bit but it cleans out after a second or 2.

If you followed the instructions correctly and only removed the air filter cover to do this job, there can't be much wrong with it. My money is still on the fuel hoses not being connected properly.

I know when I change the exhaust on my dirt bike (to be quiet or loud)
I need to adjust the idle as one exhaust has better back pressure than the other.

I'd simply wind the idle screw in a little and then when it's idling smoothly, take it for a spin and make sure all is working.

Good luck finging the screw. It will probably fall out somewhere.

Just a slipon should be alright.

Just a slipon should be alright.

The Ktm stock pipe hits a plate, bounces back an then goes out a little pee hole.
The tidied up one goes straight through.

I meant on the 6

so.. i DID remove another part...
i have no idea what that other part is, so here goes a really really bad explanation.

Its the horizontal bar that goes across the airbox (which in this model, is at the end closes to your groin area, and it has 4 spark plug looking things that goes into a 1 of the 4 holes and into what i believe is the intake valves???)
i removed that coz i thought i was somehow connected to the bottom part of the air box,
- when i popped that part off, it had an O-ring on each which was greased up, so when i went to put them back on, i just slipped the O-rings up the *spark plug look-a-like thing* and aligned them back into the holes and screwed up back up tight...

-so, today i went to drop it off to bikebiz grandville, and on the way there the bike cut off on me about 1min away from my house and 1min before i got to the shop as i was exiting the M4, basicly it was coming to a stop and as i clutched in it just died,
i checked all the lines before i left home and made sure they were all pluggged in snug and werent hanging off or such.
They called me back and told me it was fine and that it was idling abit low, i had it set to 1k rpm, give or take a hundred,
is that too low? or should it be fine?

-on an off topic, where the hek would i be able to find another screw to close my airbox, it feels wierd in my head that have 1 screw missing... or am i gonna have to improvise and have a "special" screw??

thanks for all your help guys

To replace the air filter why would you remove the bottom part of the airbox?

Did you undo the rod that has access holes through the frame? IE its the seal over the velocity stacks(is that what theyre called?) that has a metal ring and if they dont seat correctly can let air in. Cause when you put it back,there were spacers between the rings that help seat it all in the correct position and you may have dropped them hence causing issues.

yea i have no idea why i took them out,
when you say spacers, do you mean black rubber rings * O-rings * ??
or is it that + another part?
when i went to put it all back together, i slid the rings up the (velocity stacks*i'll call it that for now) and then popped them all back into the slots and screwed the thing down.

Did you do the screw on the side of the bike? The one where you go through the frame to tighten it?