Bodywork Modification Discussion.
Wed Aug 10, 2011 3:03 pm
That killrust will stop your plastic fairings rusting a treat!
Looks a bit bubbly?
Wed Aug 10, 2011 3:05 pm
yeah what are those little dots from? i couldnt work it out i wiped down the panels with turps before painting
Wed Aug 10, 2011 4:35 pm
What primer did you use & were the panels cut back to plastic or did they have paint left on them?
Plastic requires special primers available from auto paint shops, but if you only cut back to the original primer then it should be ok.
Kill rust is normally for metal but depending on the primer it shouldn't matter.... best result for enamel is to bake it for a perfect finish but the plastic might get a bit saggy
Bubbles in 2pak is a sign of solvents getting trapped from not flashing between coats (normally 10 - 15 minutes) enamel dries slowly so I don't know if this is the reason
Wed Aug 10, 2011 6:32 pm
i gave all the parts a sand with 1500 the front guard has acrylic under coat from a spray can the other panel is just sprayed strait over the original paint which was white
do u think those thousands of little particles are dirt and dust kicked up while drying? as im spraying outdoors
Wed Aug 10, 2011 7:11 pm
robracer wrote:.... best result for enamel is to bake it for a perfect finish but the plastic might get a bit saggy
You can still bake the plastics, the deflection temperatures are surprisingly high (around 100 degrees C for ABS under a 66psi load).
As for all the dots I'm going to guess it's dust while drying. It's pretty hard to avoid if you don't have a booth setup.
Wed Aug 10, 2011 7:54 pm
gazza2008au wrote:i gave all the parts a sand with 1500 the front guard has acrylic under coat from a spray can the other panel is just sprayed strait over the original paint which was white
do u think those thousands of little particles are dirt and dust kicked up while drying? as im spraying outdoors
Ummmm Acrylic is water based, Enamel is turps based, another thing .... if you used turps or prepsol as a cleaner on acrylic it will have a reaction.
Use alcohol for a final wipe over before a tack cloth.
Mon Aug 15, 2011 7:31 pm
this may or may not help!! would need 2 see them. prob dust, maybe a reaction as said earlier, but when cured u can sand back with 2000 grit untill they gone then cut and polish, carefull not 2 rub back 2 much!! depending on how many coats, o and rub back wet, bit of morning fresh in water works great. me mates a spray painter and picked up a few tips
Thu Nov 03, 2011 12:09 am
I just resprayed my bike & had similar dramas as i was using acrylic & a few spots came out where the primer hadnt been prepared properly.!
Sun Nov 06, 2011 4:58 pm
useing anything that dries slow is only asking for a shite job.
if you use better rattle cans and plenty of clear you can get an average finish that would be acceptable for a trackie.
mate did a white 05 zx10 in white from rattle can orange peeled to buggery.( road bike )
he loves it .
i think it blows.
but to each his own
Sat Jan 07, 2012 3:52 pm
looks like you gonna have real problems with that if you gonna paint a bike or car you need to use the right paint and thinner for the job and dont apply any top coat colour untill you primer is right any bare steel needs etch primer or you will only cause drama further down the track for yourself hope this helps if you stuck call or click
http://www.aceofsprays.com.au
Tue Jan 17, 2012 8:12 pm
WHAT EVER IS DONE ACRYLIC CAN GO OVER ENAMEL BUT NOT THE OTHER WAY AROUNDAS IT WILL CROWFOOT (UNLESS YOU ARE TRYING TO ACHIEVE A WRINKLE FINISH)
Tue Jan 17, 2012 8:41 pm
mate you will never get a good paintjob working outside (dust) and using enamel over acrylic. Sand the lot back to bare plastic, get some proper plastic primer and apply - then do the top coats in acrylic. I'll be honest - all those little specs in the paint look like shit.
cloudnine9 wrote:....useing anything that dries slow is only asking for a shite job....
if you use better rattle cans and plenty of clear you can get an average finish that would be acceptable for a trackie.......
this bloke is on the money. I did the following paint-job on a trackie, using the cheapest Aussie Export rattle-can you can find ! But - had good surface prep, did the top coats outside on a perfectly still day but at 26deg - light coats and lots of them, you could see the finish just 'laying-off' out of the rattle can !! There is not one coat of clear on the bodywork at this point either
Tue Jan 17, 2012 8:46 pm
Yup agree with gos

I used the super cheap export lime green on my zxr250 trackie (and before I crashed it) the paint was awesome cause of good primer and prep work.
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