Aj's zxr250a project

GO THE FUKI
anyway the leaks couldn't be any worse than an Ameriacn or Brit bike

Hahah thanks Rob, I love the sticker, goes well with everything, I think I've figured it out now though. I'm sourcing a new sump, getting some gasket goo on the stator gasket and going to reset the rubber seal that sits around the spark plugs, I'm pretty sure they've moved out of place so I just need to spend some time on it...

Here's some pics of prepping the tank

Cleaning it out with water before filling it with rust convertor...







The tough marks:



This tank has been coated in tank creme... went over it with rust convertor anyway


Clive's ingenious method of keeping paint out of the tank




ready to paint


1st coat:



3rd coat:

Looking good, keep up the hard work

I cant beleave you went to all the trouble to pull the thing down and powder coat the frame and other bits and then just rattle can th ebody work??

If that is just a shit matt black acrylic it will be tough to look after.-- 1 drop of fuel on that tank and it will be rooted, it needs to be done in 2k matt black.

Other than that im lovin what you have done

Cheers damo

It's vht primer black, the fairings I didn't want to spend too much on because they're the first things that are going to break, I didn't mind blasting and powder coating the easy to damage metal parts as I've now secured the corrosion problem for a few good years, the reason I've painted it in rattle can is because I had a lengthy chat with a painter down at a local smash repair shop, and he told me it'll be fine if I go through with rattle can primer, (read: no acrylic or enamel) and he can 2k matt clear straight over that, I'm getting it done soon, I'll post up the results, total cost of paint and 2k matt clear, $200+- $50. I'd never do this if I was going any other colour other then matt black because it's not possible,

thanks though, I appreciate it

That Primer is turps based?... which would be equiv to an enamel.....

ran it by him and he said he can 2k matt clear over it comfortably, hmmm... may go back and see him then, shall be taking the stuff to him sometime this week anyway, will let you guys know what happens!

Great project mate. However i think the matt paint will let you down and you will be disappointed in the finish. I did it once and after a few sessions in the rain the paint became real rough. It also looks like the engine paint was done in a rush even in the photos you can see the heavy paint spots. You are on the right track but you need to slow down and do things properly - believe me it it worth it so you dont have to re-do them.

If i were you i would be prepping the tank and fairings as much as you can, ask your painter what materials to use, so that you can take it to him after and he can just lay down some proper matt or gloss black. Should only be a few hundred bucks if you do all the priming/prep. Then it will be rock hard and will look alot better. You will be happier and you will get better resale when you decide to sell.

Other than that good work and keep us updated with the progress.

Looking good, on your oil leak issue I imagine you cleaned the motor before you painted it, if so you may have removed a lot of build up that was either stopping the oil leak or making it not very noticeable. it may be a case of some dirt or something between the gasket and case, ill fitting/back to front gasket (I know sounds strange but i know a few people that have done it on cars) or just a dead gasket.
Keep up the good work, the best way to learn is to break it yourself

Going well mate, but the best piece of advice i can give u, throw away that aldi stand, their CRAP, and the last thing u want is for it to roll off those crap stands!!!! and undo all ur good work. A little test for u, get someone to hold bike for u, stand behind bike and gently bump it, it will roll off!!!! good ones dont cost much

Great project mate. However i think the matt paint will let you down and you will be disappointed in the finish. I did it once and after a few sessions in the rain the paint became real rough. It also looks like the engine paint was done in a rush even in the photos you can see the heavy paint spots. You are on the right track but you need to slow down and do things properly - believe me it it worth it so you dont have to re-do them.

If i were you i would be prepping the tank and fairings as much as you can, ask your painter what materials to use, so that you can take it to him after and he can just lay down some proper matt or gloss black. Should only be a few hundred bucks if you do all the priming/prep. Then it will be rock hard and will look alot better. You will be happier and you will get better resale when you decide to sell.

Other than that good work and keep us updated with the progress.

Thanks heaps mate for the advice, I know matt colours are very hard to maintain and this is by no means going to be a show bike, this will be ridden exactly how it was built for, but at this stage I plan on keeping this bike even if I graduate, I don't need a bigger bike, if I get one, it'll be for show, even a scooter is enough to get me in serious trouble with the local constabulary... so this 250 should be enough for my commuting and weekend stinting needs... As for the paint, I'm getting it all done in 2k now to be safe, and with the engine, that heavy paint spot is actually an oil stain from the leak that I didn't realise I'd soaked up with the rag I was using to wipe my hands , I spent about 12 hours prepping the engine, and then painted it over 1 hour, there was a lot of cleaning...

Looking good, on your oil leak issue I imagine you cleaned the motor before you painted it, if so you may have removed a lot of build up that was either stopping the oil leak or making it not very noticeable. it may be a case of some dirt or something between the gasket and case, ill fitting/back to front gasket (I know sounds strange but i know a few people that have done it on cars) or just a dead gasket.
Keep up the good work, the best way to learn is to break it yourself

Yeah I think so mate, I'll go over the bike soon, I've got some gasket goo on hand for this, will give that a go soon and post results. Learning a lot then

Going well mate, but the best piece of advice i can give u, throw away that aldi stand, their CRAP, and the last thing u want is for it to roll off those crap stands!!!! and undo all ur good work. A little test for u, get someone to hold bike for u, stand behind bike and gently bump it, it will roll off!!!! good ones dont cost much

Thanks mate, hahah all I'm using it for is to make my life 10x easier for lubing and cleaning the chain, for everything else I have my jack stands, to be honest, for what they're designed for [250kg limit in mind] they don't do a bad job, I never expected workshop quality, and the constructed is good, I'm not sure what you mean by roll off, but mine is as sturdy as my friends Kaneg stand, I just don't expect it to last as long or hold the same weight as the kaneg, but for my 140kg bike once in a while I hope it'll be ok, at all other points, she's on the side stand.

I bought one as a spare, and had my girlfriends 636 on it, wasnt doing much, just cleaning the chain, wheel ect, bumped the back of the bike lightly and bike started to roll off it, by that i mean, arse end of the stand lifted up and bike would have rolled off and down on the ground!!! caught it in time!! the bend in the arms don't bend back enough to have the bike stable enough. I use kaneg ones for my track bike, never had a problem, i can push the bike around on it no probs.

Fair enough! Doesn't happen to this one for some reason, I don't have any issues with it, but I'm sure it won't last as long as a kaneg, looks like this will hold though, how much does the 636 weigh?

the 636 is light,prob about 170kg?
weights not the prob, was thinking about it today, i use the pick up spools, are u using the flats that pickup under the swingarm? maybe thats the diference?? that would prob be more stable