Bling from Jaycar

Hey they look pretty good, however they are rated @ 600mA. What would you use to stop them from being blasted from the battery?

Dammit Gosbling, and you've taken all the checkerplate off the MFP now .

More reflective surfaces is what you need to match these babies, take off the mesh and crack out the scissors again mate .

Hey they look pretty good, however they are rated @ 600mA. What would you use to stop them from being blasted from the battery?

the battery wont blast them. If they are rated at 600mA, then thats all they will draw from the battery.

Example, i destroyed the power pack to my switch at home, the switch needs 400mA to run.
I didnt have any spare power packs apart from a 3A power pack. After some connector modifications, it runs fine. The switch is only requesting 400mA from the 3A supply. If i wanted to, i could piggy back another 5 switches off that same power pack and only be drawing 2.4A, leaving me plenty of room for more.

Hey they look pretty good, however they are rated @ 600mA. What would you use to stop them from being blasted from the battery?

the battery wont blast them. If they are rated at 600mA, then thats all they will draw from the battery.

Example, i destroyed the power pack to my switch at home, the switch needs 400mA to run.
I didnt have any spare power packs apart from a 3A power pack. After some connector modifications, it runs fine. The switch is only requesting 400mA from the 3A supply. If i wanted to, i could piggy back another 5 switches off that same power pack and only be drawing 2.4A, leaving me plenty of room for more.

As long as the power supply is regulated

What I'm planning to do is have a strip of LED lights out of view on the inside of the left and right front fairings so @ night it glows out of the side.

I'll bring these to EC on the trackday 10/05/08.

If you are using LEDs then to stop them getting 'blasted' bung in a couple of resistors... otherwise you will overload the LEDs and they will have a drastically shortened life span.

There are plenty of LED/resistor calculators out there on the INTAHWEBZ

EPIC thread resurrection !!

hehehehe... yes. I dug deep. And found something I could contribute on

dont use resistors, if the LED units are rated at 12v then they will work fine,

400ma is the draw on the battery, a battery holds a certain amount of Amp hours, but will not push amps, it pushes voltage, the current(amps) is what the device connected is using, not what its limited to.

the LEDs in these units are hooked up in series, they are not 12v LEDs, you can not split them, and if you do, they will burn out if you run them on more than 4 volts.

these units come complete with any risisters needed to prevent a short circuit(since LEDs do not provide resistance, without resistance you get a short circuit) they can just be plugged straight into the battery, ot hooked up through the headlight wires, dont try to modify an already good system, shave a bit off if theyre too big, sure, but dont wreck them because you think you can make it better.

I didn't realise they were built with resistors in there... but what you are saying about LEDs do not provide resistance... sure but they will still work... until they burn out because they will draw more amps than they are rated for.

This is talking about plain ol boring normal LEDs since they are normally rated around 25-50ma... so if you hook them up to a 400ma circuit they will run and then burn out. Trust me, I have tried it

no, not true.

a 400ma circuit will only provide as many milliamps as required up to 400ma, amps are a measure of draw from the LED, not the amout output by the power supply, the amp rating on the power supply is a measure of the maximum draw that it can take.

the only thing that would burn out an LED is too high a voltage, which is very common because they are usually rated at about 2.3 - 3.0 volts.

4 volt LEDs are more common now, but must be hooked up in series in groups of 3 or they will only last a short while and burn out.

I used to work at jaycar, and i sold many of these units(or similar at least), and have had to explain this to alot of people.

Volts = output
Amps = draw on the power supply
Ohms = resistance

there is a resistor to provide resistance, otherwise it will short circuit. The Leds are each rated to(approx) 50ma(meaning they will only draw 50ma out of your batteries store, measured in amp-Hours(how many hours your battery would last with a constant draw of 1 amp) and the battery is outputting approx 12V (usually about 14.5v)

you could, in theory hook a 50ma LED up to a 500Amp circuit, and not burn out the LED unless the circuit was outputting more volts than what the LED is rated for

I used to be a lighting technician, i did these calculations daily, you can hook up 2 x 1kw lights and 1 x 400watt(equal to 2.4Kw or 10 amps at 240volts) lights to a 10 amp circuit before overloading anything. but, you could also hook up a 60 watt light (equal to .25 amps) to the same 10 amp circuit, and the light will not burn out. (this is the exact same thing as a 50ma LED on a 400ma circuit, Im just using it because it is slightly easier to understand) you could hook up 8 x 50ma LEDs to a 400ma circuit, and would not have a problem because that equates to 400ma of draw, but if you attach a 9th, you will overload the circuit.(but not the LEDs!)

More illegal bling.....

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now that is HOT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

That ZX14 looks hot. And Corvus, yep I think I had it assbackwards... *gets back in box*