Tue Jun 26, 2007 12:14 am
Tue Jun 26, 2007 8:09 am
Tue Jun 26, 2007 9:30 am
Tue Jun 26, 2007 9:54 am
Tue Jun 26, 2007 11:19 pm
Technik wrote:here is my $0.02.
1. If the previous owner put on lower springs, a set of sports shocks would be ideal but not necessary.
2. Nah, usually the front shocks worn out faster that the rears - due to the weigh distribution of the car being front engine etc.
3. Worth it a try pending on the price/quality.
4. 2/3 hrs
5. Dunno much about HSV..
Wed Jun 27, 2007 9:17 am
Wed Jun 27, 2007 9:51 am
Neka79 wrote:howdy folks..since so many of u are mechanically minded with all things that steal our money (bikes,cars and women...mostly women)...i got a few questions regarding car/ute shock/struts....so my mechanic told me i need new fronts, and he wants to charge me $600 for a couple , and to fit em..fark that i reckon at the "greeny house of fixing shit" we can sort out the labour (greeny has offered his garage again)... so heres the questions...
1.the car was lowered YEARS ago, but they only put new springs, not shocks (so i think)..should i put a set of "lowered shocks" or just original like its already got?? Lowered shocks would be a bit better only cause they are tuned to the lowered ride height and are generally a tad stiffer - but not necessary IMHO
2. should i put 4 new ones in while im doing it?? i can just buy the front and save abt $50...but if the back ones sjit emselves in 6mth ill kick myself... I wouldn't change the rear ones unless they needed it - it's a piece of piss job too...
3.i can get a set off ebay for abt 1/2 the normal price if i get these "pulled off a car for HSV mods" type deal..surely they gotta be better than my leaking ones..any1 had ne trouble with this type thing?? I'm almost positive the HSV Shocks of that era were made by Monroe - they will be stiffer than original but nowhere as good as Koni or Bilsteins
4. how long will it take to do a swap of 4 shocks approx?? The fronts will take some time - you will need a rattle gun, spring compressors ($30 at Supercheap), normal spanners and a big hammer.
The front is a sealed strut meaning you have to undo the 3 bolts at the top (from the engine bay - and mark which way they sat before you do), then remove the strut from the lower control arm (usually a ball joint - hence the big hammer), remove the brake lines (they twist off the bracket) and sway bar mounts.
Once the strut is out of the car, you need to undo the nut at the top (sits in the centre of the bearing cap). put the spring compressors on first so the bearing cap doesn't get launched into orbit, or your face. use the rattle gun to get the top nut off cause the shaft of the strut will spin as you try and undo it.
Then put the spring in the new strut, put it back together and put it back in the car - easy![]()
The back shocks are 4 bolts which are piss easy to do...
5. apparently the ute has 2 diff types of susp...i kno its not IRS..but how do i determine the type?? (and for this reason should i just do the front??) according to the website i found it should be live axl yea? - Unless it states its the IRS, the you've got the live rear axle
the utes got 220,000km and i just want it driveable and safe...
thanks for ur help...
Wed Jun 27, 2007 7:25 pm