rechroming zxr forks - pulling the buggers apart!
Thu Jun 14, 2007 8:44 am
did a quick search & came back with nothing so apoligies if this has been covered in detail before.
my zxr has the p1 front fork upgrade. when i bught the bike the previous owner had the l1 forks rebuilt, but since i was rebuilding the whole bike & came across a p1 wreck i had to have the forks & brakes.
typical wear patches on the chrome, & even with new seals one side weaps a little so it's time to rebuild the forks again!
there is nothing in the manual i could see about seperating the steel tube from the alloy bottom. having spoken to one bike mecanic he tells me that the tubes unscrew from the bottom section
. any truth to this? any trick to getting them to come apart without destroying something in the process?
oh - assuming standard rh threads of course? (i found out the hard way thast some manufacturers change specs on parts when rebuilding my mr2 gearbox & finding one nut was actually lh thread on that particular model of gearbox...
)
thanks in advance
Toby
my zxr has the p1 front fork upgrade. when i bught the bike the previous owner had the l1 forks rebuilt, but since i was rebuilding the whole bike & came across a p1 wreck i had to have the forks & brakes.
typical wear patches on the chrome, & even with new seals one side weaps a little so it's time to rebuild the forks again!
there is nothing in the manual i could see about seperating the steel tube from the alloy bottom. having spoken to one bike mecanic he tells me that the tubes unscrew from the bottom section
. any truth to this? any trick to getting them to come apart without destroying something in the process?
oh - assuming standard rh threads of course? (i found out the hard way thast some manufacturers change specs on parts when rebuilding my mr2 gearbox & finding one nut was actually lh thread on that particular model of gearbox...
)
thanks in advance
Toby
Thu Jun 14, 2007 1:51 pm
Will be a std thread...
Strip off the outer tuber, and remove cartridge and all gubbins - clean everything, and get it dry...
Look up the side of the axle holder and you should see a grub screw, commonly between 2 and 3mm "allen key" type; though some use Torx... You must use the absolutely bestest tool here, and I recommend using a quality hex-bit, rather than a key - the key will likely snap!
Then heat the whole kaboodle right up until you smell the glue melting and burning, then insert a good strong bar of the right bore into the oil/air transfer holes at the other end of the staunchion, and unscrew... (if there aren't any holes, you will need to drill them there first.
You might need to prepare o-ring material for the underneath where the staunchion meets the axle-holder, and perhaps a replacement crushable gasket down there - udder than that, it is all in the methods/techniques employed....
Strip off the outer tuber, and remove cartridge and all gubbins - clean everything, and get it dry...
Look up the side of the axle holder and you should see a grub screw, commonly between 2 and 3mm "allen key" type; though some use Torx... You must use the absolutely bestest tool here, and I recommend using a quality hex-bit, rather than a key - the key will likely snap!
Then heat the whole kaboodle right up until you smell the glue melting and burning, then insert a good strong bar of the right bore into the oil/air transfer holes at the other end of the staunchion, and unscrew... (if there aren't any holes, you will need to drill them there first.
You might need to prepare o-ring material for the underneath where the staunchion meets the axle-holder, and perhaps a replacement crushable gasket down there - udder than that, it is all in the methods/techniques employed....
Mon Jun 18, 2007 1:18 pm
thanks very much for all that zenodamper! just what i wanted to know. hopefully they will come apart easily enough
T
T
Mon Jun 18, 2007 1:36 pm
yeah that part is a real pain as you need special tool to hold the inside of the tube, otherwise it would just move.
The mechanics used a compressed air tool from the bottom of the fork, to do this the spring must still be inside to give it a bit of bite.
The mechanics used a compressed air tool from the bottom of the fork, to do this the spring must still be inside to give it a bit of bite.
Mon Jun 18, 2007 10:10 pm
It won't come apart easy. i had to drill the grub screws out. was a shit