97 zx6r dyno results

[SocialSecurity]

fair enough, i was planning to have a little fiddle with my needles and pilots tonight so might check that out while im at it

looks like he could gain ponies from just under 5 till redline, if that is the problem (and im sure it is)

[ozx6r]

thanks for the advise guys


and i was going to get an advancer soon 2 - might check out ebay tonight

[ozx6r]

if i do lean it out with above method

how do i know that at the points its already making good power it wont run to lean

or if its running rich will it be right across the board?

regards

pat.

[I-K]

if i do lean it out with above method

how do i know that at the points its already making good power it wont run to lean

or if its running rich will it be right across the board?

It's a matter of proportion. With the needle at the start of its travel, it leaves only a tiny little aperture for the fuel emulsion to pass through. Drop or raise the needle by a smidge and the change in needle cross-section changes the size of the emulsion aperture by, proportionally, a lot more than where the needle is raised some distance.

In any event, the flat power peak would indicate you're running a bit rich across the top end, too, so dropping the needle by a notch would be helpful there, too.

[SocialSecurity]

you can see on the dyno that it has a nasty big flat spot...

you can feel on the road that it has a nasty big flat spot...


with the needle set correctly, your seat-of-the-pants-ometer will be able to tell you that its making a lot more power in the midrange than it was before, and perhaps a little more up top... adjusting the needles with primarily affect the midrange more than anything else, and you can see clearly that its currently buggered tho the top end isnt too bad

that leads to another question, did LAE install a jet kit? as most stock needles are not adjustable

the trick is to adjust it for the single best power you can, and its not hard to tell when a bike is going harder than it was previously... dont worry about how much O2 is in the exhaust gas, because if its lean enough to actually damage the engine then it will be running like shyte in comparison. the best mixture is always the one that makes the best power. maybe different for turbos or 2 strokes, but we're talking 4 stroke n/a's here.

for starters, set the needles down one notch and see how that goes... you will most likely notice that it feels stronger in the midrange, less of a dip/flat spot... if you notice its good when cold but gets a little flat when warm, then you need to set the needle lower still... likewise if it feels bad when cold but after 15+ minutes hard riding it starts to feel a little better, then you need to raise the needle a little.

when its set right, you should notice the power is very linear through out the range, that it will pull well from about 3-4000rpm and only get stronger and stronger, any dips or flat spots (major ones at least) mean there is a fuelling issue

[SocialSecurity]

idealy you want your power curve to look like one of these, rather than the graph you currently have:

http://www.speed-sports.com/Arrow/KAW-Z ... .html#Dyno


as for how to actually do it...

you will most likely need to take off the fuel tank and air box to expose the carbys... i have not worked on a 95-97 6R but on my 98 9R you dont need to remove the carbs to adjust the needles...

on each of the 4 carbs there is usually a round black plastic cover that the slide diaphragms reside in... unscrew the covers and remove the spring and slide diaphragm. take notice of the way they go in, and try not to lose any little seals if there are any loose ones.

there will be a needle sticking out of the bottom of the slide, take it out and there should be an E-clip in one of the notches, usually with a washer above and below it. using some long nose pliars, pull it out and move it one notch higher than it currently is (so away from the tip of the needle, thus making the needle sit lower and let less fuel in). reassemble, making sure everything goes back in exactly the same as it came out.

here is a little guide, not for a 6R but for a cbr900, pretty similar tho and you should not need to remove the carbs for this:

http://www.factorypro.com/magazine/How_ ... er97t.html


now test ride


report your findings... good luck