ZXR750 Buyers Guide

[dave#3]

Hi Guys,

I'm thinking about getting a ZXR750; if I buy one I'll probably register it for a short while then trackify it.

What I'm looking for is anything specific to this model that I should be aware of. Any previous owners got anything inteligent to add ?

[T)]

well i'm not an owner, but looking to buy.

so what i have found out so far:

earlier bikes have harsh rear shock, & supposedly a bit underpowered

later bikes fix shock link, have more power but apparently don't quite handle as well (?)

because they are a "sportbike" many have lead a hard life, which would be showing up now as early models are getting long in the tooth. Having sniffed around i'm surprised seeing the number that have had engine work done on them ("rebuild")

if i'm incorrect on anything here please don't hesitate to correct me - i'm learing about this model as well.

[Strika]

Here's some stats to assist in your quests!!!

1988: a sensible Kawasaki technician ripped a rapid 16 valve, water cooled, inline four motor from a GPX750, treated it to a spot of tuning and wedged it in an aluminium beam frame. This bike was called ZXR-7. At race meets it went like stink and copped a lot of attention from the watching world. A road version appeared a year later ('89) under the tag of ZXR750-H1. From then until 1994, ZXR750 underwent many mechanical, cosmetic and chassis geometry changes, all for the best - 'though buyers didn't always agree

The bike has changed in all planes but success came with using the same formula of alloy frame, strong motor and good graphics.
At several points in time, Kawasaki launched 'limited edition' models. These bikes (ZXR750R - K1, M1, M2) were out and out racers - close ratio gearboxes, flatslide carbs, different cams, timing, suspension, ally tank, etc - to comply for homologation rules (specified amounts to be eligible for major race series eg, F1, Superbike). Those that didn't get snapped up for race duty ended up on the street, instantly recognisable by their single seat units and different graphics.
Towards the end of 1995, ZXR750 was killed off. From the angst and tears came a new model: ZX-7R. To ZXR750 worshippers the 7R has none of the aggression, meanness, appeal... call it what you like, of the bike it replaced. The ZXR750 is dead. Long live the...


1989: Bore x stroke & cc: 68 x 51.5mm, 748cc. Carbs: 4 x 36mm Keihin. Suspension: tele forks with adj. preload & rebound damping. Uni-Trak monoshock rear, adj. preload & rebound damping. Castor/trail & wheelbase: 24.5°/100mm, 1410mm Frame: ZX750H-000001 onwards. Colours: green/white/blue, black/red. The first of a long line. Bitching looks... 1990: Bore x stroke & cc: 68 x 51.5mm, 748cc. Carbs: 4 x 38mm Keihin. Suspension: teles with same features as H1 plus adj. ride height. Castor/trail & wheelbase: 24.5°/100mm, 1455mm. Frame: ZX750H-015001. Colours: green/white/blue, black/red. New style pipe, longer rods and shorter pistons made for a bit more poke. Braced swingarm gone. Hard rear suspension.


1991: Bore x stroke & cc: 71 x 47.3mm, 749cc. Carbs: 4 x 38mm Keihin. Suspension: USD forks, adj. rebound and fork ride height. Rear: adj. preload, rebound damping and ride height. Castor/trail & wheelbase: 24.5°/95mm, 1420mm. Frame: ZX750J-000001. Colour: green/white, blue. Lots of mechanical changes, better midrange, less bhp. Bloody hard rear shock. 1992: Bore x stroke & cc: 71 x 47.3mm, 749cc. Carbs: 4 x 38mm Keihin Suspension: USD forks, adj. rebound and fork ride height. Uni-Trak. Rear: adj. preload, rebound damping and ride height. Castor/trail & wheelbase: 24.5°/95mm, 1420mm. Frame: ZX750J-013901. Colour: green/white, blue, red. Kawasaki half-sorted the rear shock with softer springing and damping.


1993: Bore x stroke & cc: 71 x 47.3mm, 749cc. Carbs: 4 x 38mm Keihin. Suspension: 41mm USD forks, adj. rebound and preload. Rear: adj. preload and rebound. Castor/trail & wheelbase: 25°/99mm, 1430mm. Frame: ZX750J-000001. Colour: green/white, black/purple. Forks down in size by 2mm, Ram-Air, new pistons and head design, ZXR750-R (K) cams, 8-9bhp increase. V nice. 1994: Bore x stroke & cc: 71 x 47.3mm, 749cc. Carbs: 4 x 38mm Keihin Suspension: 41mm USD forks, adj. rebound and preload. Rear: adj. preload and rebound. Castor/trail & wheelbase: 25°/99mm, 1430mm. Frame: ZX750J-020001. Colour: green/white, black/violet No notable changes. Starting to look and feel dated already. The world waits...

1995 Bore x stroke & cc: 71 x 47.3mm, 749cc. Carbs: 4 x 38mm Keihin Suspension: 41mm USD forks, adj. rebound and preload. Rear: adj. preload and rebound. Castor/trail & wheelbase: 25°/99mm, 1430mm. Frame: ZX750J-030001. Colour: black/purple. The world is still waiting, watching, hoping.



1996: Bore x stroke & cc: 73 x 44.7mm, 749cc. Carbs: 4 x 39mm Mikuni Suspension: 43mm USD forks, adj. rebound, compression and preload. Rear: adj. rebound, compression and preload Castor/trail & wheelbase: 25°/99mm, 1420mm. Frame: ZX750P-000001. Colour: green, red. All new with nearly perfect suspension.

[YoungKwakUK]

Ive got an H2 ZXR and ive just rebuilt it. Few problems ive had ....

Clutch 'push rod' (?) is made of aluminium and has worn where it goes into the engine through an oil seal.Rebuilt with some nice bodywork and after 1st ride-oil everywhere. Ive now made a stainless steel one (its 8mm dia. and 181mm long, make sure u de-burr the end) which should sort it.

rear shock is too hard, buy an aftermarket one as the old one will probably be wayyyyy past it.

Get some braided lines, IMo the best mod u can do to the brakes as the calipers are good enough for me (GSXR 600 SRAD friend loves them, his are like cheese)

Mine had been on a track as i think many have, check subframes front and rear for distortion/breakage and rad/oil cooler. Mine had been dropped and snapped clocks off mount, oil cooler bent double and an H1 rad instead of the H2 (although it keeps it easily cool enough)

Alternator belts (ive heard) have a habit of snapping. If you strip it replace it if it looks anything like worn. they are a bit pricey but a bit of a tw*t to do. It also squeaks occasionally when lights etc are on but i dont worry....

Keep standard airbox/airfilter, apparantly they are the best combination to use

Finally, if the clutch needs replacing the manual states u have to drain all the engine oil first. Dont bother doing this as you can remove the clutch cover with the bike on the sidestand (level ground of course) and all the oil stays at the other side of the engine. I did this because to drain the oil i would have had to remove the exhaust silencer and centre link pipe. So, if you ever have to remove the exhaust its worth changing the oil and the filter at the same time....

not sure if this was the kind of info u were after but thought id post it, it may help someone out there .....