ZZR-11 choke starting question

I can't seem to get the bike to warm up under 2500 RPM? It starts on choke fine, runs at about 1500 or less for the first 10 seconds and then the engine races up. If I try to back the choke of it dies, no matter how tweeky I get with it. The only thing I can do is have half choke and bump the throttle a little which is a pain as it takes about 2 mintes before it's warm enough to idle on it's own.

does it idle normal after 2 minutes?

If it wont hold the idle at all, it could be an airleak near the manifolds.

Way to test for it is get it semi warmed up, then spray WD40 / Aerostart around the manifolds, if the revs have a further rise, then the manifold boot isnt done up tightly enough, OR you're the proud owner of a leaky boot. Best option is to replace it, but dodgy bastards have been known to find the leak and pump it full of silastic.

yes it idles nicely after it's warmed up, I can have it as low as 400 if I wanted but I keep it set around 1200rpm.

just a maybe.......try lubing the inside of the choke assembly, and the cable as well........it *might* be binding a little ??

do you mean the assembly up on the handlebar Goz? Yes, I havent done that I must admit. I got a can of moto whatever spray lube for cables and a trusty "cable-lubricator" I'll pull it off tonight and oil up the surfaces in there. Should I spray a load in between the carbs where the cable ends too? * a load of lube that is *

do you mean the assembly up on the handlebar Goz? Yes, I havent done that I must admit. I got a can of moto whatever spray lube for cables and a trusty "cable-lubricator" I'll pull it off tonight and oil up the surfaces in there. Should I spray a load in between the carbs where the cable ends too? * a load of lube that is *

Yes mate, give the assembly on the h/bar a good spray, down the cable with the "cable-lube" jobby, and it probably wouldn't hurt to do the bit at the carbie end as well...........at least if all these are done, you can discount 'cable-binding' as a possible cause of the problem.

As the bike holds a nice idle when warmed up, you can *almost* discount the manifold rubbers as a source of a possible air-leak. You should do a quick check on the clamps on each manifold though, just to make sure they are all nipped up tight.

Well I got an oil change saterday, putting in the motol synth, so When I have the covers off I'll pull the tank and the airbox and give it all a suss over. My throttle is still giving me a little trouble because when I take all the slack out of it it sticks at right lock? Gotta be a twist in the cables mabe but perhaps the rod that links all the carbs nees a spray of lube too? I'll get the thing tweeked right eventually

UPDATE!
Apparently its normal for the bike to falter under 3000 rpm when on the choke. So I should not expect it to warm up at a low rpm. Hmmm. I just wanted it to warm up low cause warm up is where you have to take the most care, before the oil has fully circulated..