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Mon Jan 23, 2006 8:42 pm

jewjew wrote:is the bike new, if it is replace the battery, they seem to have a faulty cell......mine did


new to me. Its been push started before by bonester. It has always seemed to not have that ooommpphhhh a battery should. I might have to look into investing in a new one sometime in the near future. Then I can dispose of 2 batteries at the same time..the bike and the car battery I have had sitting around for the past 3 months :D

Tue Jan 24, 2006 9:54 am

It's only a friggin' GPX250, there's not going to be a lot of compression lockup...just use first gear it will work fine. I did it heaps of times on my old GPX when the battery was stuffed.

Tue Jan 24, 2006 11:50 am

ohno102go wrote:1:tie a rope around head stem
2:tie a rope around towbar, alternatively tie other end of first rope to tow bar and go to point 4
3:tie ropes together
4: drag bike to 20Kph
5: select 2nd
6: dump clutch
7: Attempt to keep revs up while avoiding towbar
8: Call NRMA ask for tow truck for car

or
1: buy new battery

Sat Jan 28, 2006 8:03 pm

On my old Z, I can't really roll start the bike if it's in gear and cold. The clutch sticks a little overnight and makes it an absolute bugger to push, lots of friction( that's what clutches do!).
So, I ride down the driveway, wait till I'm going about 15km/h, select 2nd and clutch smoothly in.
By the way, don't forget to make sure kill switch, fuel and ignition is on, and make sure you have fuel in your carbs if they tend to dry out after a few days, like my bike does. Don't ask me how I know all the above! I'm glad I live on a long steepish hill!
I'd second the possible dud battery suggestion too, although it could be a charging issue. Have you tried charging the battery and seeing how it goes?

Regards, Andrew.

Sat Jan 28, 2006 9:55 pm

battery is going again, although I suspect it has been flakey since I bought the bike (just before chrissy). I will have to keep an eye on it and save up for a new battery.

Sat Jan 28, 2006 10:00 pm

Supercheap has bike batteries for around $40...both shops in town last time I looked.

Sun Jan 29, 2006 5:19 pm

neka79 wrote:hahaha can i watch as......


Hrm...never guess what happened....

Battery was dead again..seems like its flaking out badly. Got a new battery for it but need to put acid in somehow :shock:

Anyway, push started it once with someone pushing me....first worked a dream :D

Got home, stopped bike, went to start again and battery dead...damn. tried push starting it and jumping on....didnt work tooo good as I was too chicken to jump on so I thought it would be a good idea (in hindsight, not so good idea) to ride beside and then just drop the clutch while running...needless to say I now have a semi sore arm, a grazed knee and grazes to upper thigh due to foot pegs. I have since learnt that I can roll down my short driveway and start it. All because of a bloody battery.

Edit

The bike was not damaged during this ordeal, I kept thinking to myself that there was no way I was letting go and causing cracked fairings just because it started at a runnign pace....so I got hurt and bike is ok :D

Sun Jan 29, 2006 5:36 pm

your regulator is cactus. You need to replace it asap.

8)

Sun Jan 29, 2006 5:54 pm

Gosling1 wrote:your regulator is cactus. You need to replace it asap.

8)

yea i was gunna suggest either voltage reg....or stator (alternator)...the voltage reg stops the battery from recieving the whole amount of power that a stator produces..so the battery doesnt get fried...but the stator produces the power..

HTH

Sun Jan 29, 2006 6:00 pm

wazza1234 wrote:..... Got a new battery for it but need to put acid in somehow :shock: .....


I use a 100cc syringe, get 'em from the chemists, try not to let them see your pick marks :shock: (j/k)

these make it really easy to fill batteries with the initial fill - after that, I have a 50cc syringe with a 150mm length of clear plastic tube ( carbie o/flow tube) attached, you can use this for filling the individual cells of the battery exactly to the right point...........either using distilled water or rain water ONLY !! tap water will cut your batteries life by 50%......

I meant to add this tip to the other post....... :oops:

8)

Sun Jan 29, 2006 9:01 pm

neka79 wrote:
Gosling1 wrote:your regulator is cactus. You need to replace it asap.

8)

yea i was gunna suggest either voltage reg....or stator (alternator)...the voltage reg stops the battery from recieving the whole amount of power that a stator produces..so the battery doesnt get fried...but the stator produces the power..

HTH


The battery has always been a little weak...wouldnt surprise me if it was dodgey from the time I got the bike. Will see how the new battery goes.

Sun Jan 29, 2006 9:03 pm

wazza1234 wrote:
neka79 wrote:
Gosling1 wrote:your regulator is cactus. You need to replace it asap.

8)

yea i was gunna suggest either voltage reg....or stator (alternator)...the voltage reg stops the battery from recieving the whole amount of power that a stator produces..so the battery doesnt get fried...but the stator produces the power..

HTH


The battery has always been a little weak...wouldnt surprise me if it was dodgey from the time I got the bike. Will see how the new battery goes.


Take it to auto electrician at same time and make sure it is getting correct charge or it will go flat again

Thanks
Natalie

Sun Jan 29, 2006 9:19 pm

need to get one out for the car so may as well get him to check at the same time. Bonester has checked previousally and it seemed ok. Will see how we go....at least I know how to push start now....albeit nearly killing myself doing so.

Sun Jan 29, 2006 9:29 pm

If you have a multimeter, there is a really quick way to check your charging circuit - without starting the bike, check the voltage across the battery terminals (set the multimeter to 25V DC) - You should get a reading of *approx* 12-12.5 volts....

Remove the test leads - Start the bike - replace the leads across the terminals - your voltage should be around the 12.5 - 13v DC mark. Give the bike a rev up to about 2500rpm - your voltage reading should increase to 13-13.5 volts. Maximum acceptable voltage from a good regulator is 13.8V. Anything over that, your regulator is stuffed, buy a new one.

If the voltage across the terminals doesnt change at all (or even drops), your regulator is stuffed, buy a new one. You will also need to check the stator output if this is the case, there are a number of possible things that can go wrong here........

Good luck :D

Sun Jan 29, 2006 9:45 pm

Gosling1 wrote:If you have a multimeter, there is a really quick way to check your charging circuit - without starting the bike, check the voltage across the battery terminals (set the multimeter to 25V DC) - You should get a reading of *approx* 12-12.5 volts....

Remove the test leads - Start the bike - replace the leads across the terminals - your voltage should be around the 12.5 - 13v DC mark. Give the bike a rev up to about 2500rpm - your voltage reading should increase to 13-13.5 volts. Maximum acceptable voltage from a good regulator is 13.8V. Anything over that, your regulator is stuffed, buy a new one.

If the voltage across the terminals doesnt change at all (or even drops), your regulator is stuffed, buy a new one. You will also need to check the stator output if this is the case, there are a number of possible things that can go wrong here........

Good luck :D


Yep...I still think battery. Bonester did this when he was over the first time it got flat...all check out ok. If the thing dies again I will continue investigation. I am still a little cautious about the battery being smaller than the one specified in the manual. One that was in it was 6Ah and the one specified is 8Ah. Not a lot of difference but enough to stop it from starting if its even slightly flat.
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