General Discussion
Wed Jan 25, 2006 1:44 pm
Well after completing the protest got home turned the bike off then when to start it mmmm no power

tried it a few hours after and no problems

Any idears.Bike didnt get to hot top temp 103 then fan cut in back to 90.And wasnt hot when i got home either after riding from the city lane splitting all the way to greensbourough
Wed Jan 25, 2006 1:54 pm
phew... was expecting to see a photo of a mangled ZX9 caught between a honda CRV and a landrover
uhmmm.... sounds to be an electrical problem... when you say no power, you mean absolutely nothing... no horn no dash lights no tail light, no cranking?
Wed Jan 25, 2006 1:55 pm
Nope absloutly nothing

I have done14000 ks on this bike since end of october and never happened before
Wed Jan 25, 2006 2:03 pm
Loose earth ?
Check where your negative battery terminal goes to (should screw into your motor somewhere or frame)
Or, by not lane splitting, the motor heated up too much and melted some casing of wires, and now it's just going to start going crazy from now on, like herbie but the bike version (ask nikos)
Wed Jan 25, 2006 2:09 pm
oh also, try electrical contact cleaner in ya ignition barrel.. could be it's not connecting well
could be all different things! all else fails, anyone know a good auto elec??
Wed Jan 25, 2006 2:13 pm
electrical gremlins are the best, they really flloat my boat
coconuts had a similar problem to this once...turned out to be the ignition barrel
not much you can really do if its working ok now... but if she plays up again, go nuts with a multimeter and a piece of bridging wire
"when in doubt.... bridge it out"
Wed Jan 25, 2006 2:16 pm
I've had something similar once on a Yahama...that was a faulty ignition switch.
The guts of it is that a little piece of plastic that turns with the key inside the switch broke and the brass bits attached to the plastic bit only made contact with all the other brass bits (attached to another plastic bit) by chance.
Switch felt normal and it was a bitch to diagnose. At first an occasional "nothing" and gradually got worse. I let it go once I knew I had to jiggle the key around but one day it wouldn't go no matter what..
Wed Jan 25, 2006 2:18 pm
if you need to bridge the ignition out, you might need to put a 100ohm resistor in there to make it work.... little anti-theft thing there from the factory
Wed Jan 25, 2006 2:37 pm
something dicky in the kill switch? Perhaps try bypassing some of these systems?
Wed Jan 25, 2006 2:45 pm
hmmmm
curious one
either the battery playing up
or one of the main switches/fusible link
reckon it will be one of those and will need the
ol' multimeter out to find it
cheers
Wed Jan 25, 2006 4:24 pm
Fuse, yes, think fuse. Very easy to change a fuse. Everyone repeat after me...
"IT'S A BLOWN FUSE"
Wed Jan 25, 2006 4:28 pm
fuses dont typically come good a few hours later
Wed Jan 25, 2006 6:15 pm
whip the seat off and check the battery voltage...
the fan and headlights from idling might have stopped it from charging up due to low revs...
so def check that first.. could be as simple as a charge of the battery.. or jump start and abit of a blat.. posibly d/c the backs of the head lights to conserve the current.
Dan
Thu Jan 26, 2006 12:02 am
Thanks for all your advise

Went for a blast after rehersals tonight and all went well so im thinking i will wait and see if it does it again or get it checked out next service.I did have a low beam light that was going on and off sometimes so changed that and cleaned connections.Hey dan have you still got that manual on cd that i was gonna get off you on pig and whistle run thinking i might need it the zx is not as simple as the z9
Thu Jan 26, 2006 12:28 am
Will have to check mate... But if your's is the same model as Rossi's then I believe we haven't sourced one as yet... Cause I think Rossi is still trying to find one.. F2 i think his is????
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