Kawasaki Sportsbike Riders Club - Australia - Online Forum

I read a thing on the net tonight that said that acrylic paint is porous, and allows rust to happen underneath the paint. Is this true? I bloody hope not, as I have painted 4 bikes in the last couple of years in acrylic with a couple more to go soon, including a friends GT550 which I hope to restore to look the same as mine, but with new paint. If I paint it well enough, I'll respray my own too.
I like acrylic paint, coz it is what I am used to, it buffs up easily, and of course it isn't as toxic as two pack....
Apparently Holdens started using it in the early sixties to on either the FB or EK, so I like it for traditional reasons too- a few years ago I had an orignal HR Premier wagon in original paint, which buffed up OK. I since wrecked it out for parts for my HR Premier ute. (which I put together- no Prem ute from the factory.)

All paint is porous. What matters is the preparation. You can't do an undercoat, then wait 3 weeks to do the top coat. Couple of days, or as per instructions at the most. Now is a pretty ideal time to be doing paint work in T'ba 'cause it is so bloody dry. Just do it during the day, and don't let the body work get too cold at night time - try and keep a stable temp (use a heater if need be). This will improve the bonding and curing of the paint to the metal.


PS Not all 2 pacs are the same - you can get water based 2 pac for instance...

PPS It's the thinners that are the real toxic problem. $40~odd at Sedl on South St for a kick arse 3M respirator

boney, my understanding of acrylic paint is the same as you have read, which is why you should put on a rust inhibiting primer. However, I could be wrong so will check with a mate who is a spray painter.

Part of the testing I used to do at the Uni was water absorbtion. Believe me, it all absorbs water. Do the prep right and it wont mater.

Felix wrote:All paint is porous. What matters is the preparation. You can't do an undercoat, then wait 3 weeks to do the top coat. Couple of days, or as per instructions at the most. Now is a pretty ideal time to be doing paint work in T'ba 'cause it is so bloody dry. Just do it during the day, and don't let the body work get too cold at night time - try and keep a stable temp (use a heater if need be). This will improve the bonding and curing of the paint to the metal.

PS Not all 2 pacs are the same - you can get water based 2 pac for instance...

PPS It's the thinners that are the real toxic problem. $40~odd at Sedl on South St for a kick arse 3M respirator

Felix is correcto....

with any back to metal paint jobs I did (done about a dozen
over the years) ..it was etch primer followed by grey undercoat
and if it was warm enuff...top coat straight away
(otherwise heaters overnight..then top coat)
its all in the preparation

and for the Holden buffs....
and it was the FB released in Jan 1960 that got the acylic paint
(previously enamel)
the GMH marketing people thought long and hard and called it
.....Magic Mirror Finish


hth


cheers

Felix wrote: You can't do an undercoat, then wait 3 weeks to do the top coat. )

Undercoat is very porous otherwise the topcoat won't stick to it
so
I laugh at all these gooses driving around in their cars
...done out in undercoat grey

Smitty wrote:

Felix wrote: You can't do an undercoat, then wait 3 weeks to do the top coat. )

Undercoat is very porous otherwise the topcoat won't stick to it
so
I laugh at all these gooses driving around in their cars
...done out in undercoat grey

Geese

Stereo wrote:

Smitty wrote:

Felix wrote: You can't do an undercoat, then wait 3 weeks to do the top coat. )

Undercoat is very porous otherwise the topcoat won't stick to it
so
I laugh at all these gooses driving around in their cars
...done out in undercoat grey

Geese

gooses ...sounds better