Kawasaki Sportsbike Riders Club - Australia - Online Forum

Hi guys, if i did a painting course as in house painting or a diploma/cert in paint, would i be able to paint my bike?

like sanding and techqines of apply spray paint evenly?

hidepenny wrote:Hi guys, if i did a painting course as in house painting or a diploma/cert in paint, would i be able to paint my bike?

like sanding and techqines of apply spray paint evenly?

Not really, auto spraypainter is the go, they do courses at TAFE.

I learnt by myself with a few tips from a mate, not that I am good at it but I did a few cars in my time.

can anyone suggest any course bike/car related and availabe as partime? as i can't seem to find any

http://webserver1.chisholm.vic.edu.au/sidemenuindex.cfm?item=portal_ed-short-search3

I am doing the one in March... Have done Automotive couses b4 her and loved them

if you wanted to use a paint brush.... lol

you would prob get some benefit in learning to prep.. but you would still need practice in using a spray gun...



you going to trailor it up the spur and paint it?

Oh shit I pasted the wrong link didn't I

http://webserver1.chisholm.vic.edu.au/sidemenuindex.cfm?item=portal_ed-short-module2&courseID=3233

http://webserver1.chisholm.vic.edu.au/sidemenuindex.cfm?item=portal_ed-short-module2&courseID=16343

You're gonna paint the bike with Dulux ? ...

You're gonna paint the bike with Dulux ? ...

yeah for all the weather and crack proof as seen on tv!!!!

hidepenny wrote:

You're gonna paint the bike with Dulux ? ...

yeah for all the weather and crack proof as seen on tv!!!!

Do dulux make idiot proof paint ?

FFS

and think what your saying

Dont use water based or a roller

house paint = thick
walls = flat


painter = painter
panel beater = panel beater/sprayer (read not painter)

sanding lines, curves etc is far more intricate than sanding a house and painting with a roller.

House paint is thick and can hide so much. where as spraying something, esp with metalic it can show up ALL the imperfections.

Dust is also a far greater issue with spraying then painting.


best thing to do is get tips find out what steps to take and learn/practice... panel beaters don't just start doing it, they go through several years worth of apprenticeship to get it down to an art.

try it and you'll find that you will learn as you go and keep improving the more you do it.

Cant beleave I missd this post, well as a panel beater / spraypainter
I can say it will take a while to lurn how to spray realy good but some
people pick it up quickly, try practicing on an old panel, if you have no
body work to be done such as appling putty well all you do is

* rub panels with 600 or 800 wet n dry make sure you use water, make
sure no shinny bits lefts, then clean it then wipe with prepsol use rags that
dont leave fluf use one for appling one for drying ( must dry it straight
away )

* depending on what group paint you will use, ther is plain colour or
metalic, and also acrylic or two pac enamel, I suggest you use acrylic
cause enamel very dificult to perfect, so choose your colour work out how
much you need and get the auto shop to mix it for you, you must get
some thinners to thin paint

*now if your gonna spray metalic which is the one with kinda glitter in it
then you must spray 6 coats all up 3 colour and 3 clear paint which is a
must for metalic paints it makes it shine, if you gona spray solid colour which
is just colour with no particals in it then you dont need clear paint

* now mask it up to avoid ova spray on bit you dont want to paint

* ther is no need for under coat, I have done many car without under
coat and I havent had any probs, only needed if old paint is realy faded

* when mixing paint mix it in the spray gun pot, it saves a lot of markin about

1st coat mix 40% paint to 60% thinners

2nd coat 30% paint to 70% thinners

3rd coat 20% paint to 80% thinners

4th coat if your not spraying metalic same as 3rd coat
-----------------------------------------

if your spraying clear

1st coat 30 % clear paint to 70% thinners

2nd coat same as first

3rd coat 20 % clear paint to 80 % thinners

get your self a little beaver its good value

* now when you re spraying, hold gun about 8 to 10 inches away then
spray edges first and then go over whole panel at a constant motion with
out stopin , not to fast not to slow make sure you spray closed area to
prevent dust fallin on paint job

* having done all that allow 3 for days for drying time then cut it back
with 1000 or 1200 wet and dry, make sure you use water and when you
rub it back dont rub in the same area for to long but also you have to get
rid of the orange peel look on the job after it has dried, keep wiping water
of to see if orange peel look has gone then buff with buffer ofcourse and
use good quality compound, careful ther is a lot shit out ther

and if you feel this is to much to do then I suggest cookin

glad to help if you have any questions

adel wrote: get your self a little beaver its good value

I must have gone wrong somewhere........mine costs a fortune to keep happy

* having done all that allow 3 for days for drying time then cut it back
with 1000 or 1200 wet and dry, make sure you use water and when you
rub it back dont rub in the same area for to long but also you have to get
rid of the orange peel look on the job after it has dried, keep wiping water
of to see if orange peel look has gone then buff with buffer ofcourse and
use good quality compound, careful ther is a lot shit out ther

Orange peel effect in spraying is an indication of :-
A. Incorrect thinning medium used
B. Wrong pressure to your gun

adel wrote: get your self a little beaver its good value

The little beaver and the wagner equivalent are rubbish. The only thing you would use them for is something where finish is not important... like fences




or Hondas.



A couple of hundred bucks will get you a halfway decent compressor outfit that you can build on as your skills increase.