oils aint oils (for the 12)

[blackryder]

Was wondering if any fellow zx12 riders out there could help me with my next oil change.
I'm currently running Motul 300v in her belly, i am led to believe this oil is 1 of the best around, (this may be true, but i'm not noticing it)
The bikes running fine, the clutch does seem to clunk into gears a bit, nothing ugly bad though. I'm happy to keep using this oil, but was wondering if there is something out there i could try that is as good, if not better than the 300v, and possibly something that wont hurt my hip pocket when i go to fill her up again.
Dont get me wrong, i still want to be using the best oil out there, just after something thats a bit cheaper, but not necessarily a cheaper oil (if you know what i mean)
I would love to hear from you guys on the oils your using, (would u keep using it), how much you pay for it (and where)
I'm guessing that many of us are using all different oils, so this should be good.

[MAXUMIS]

its probably not good to run 300v its ment for full throttle applications.if you want decant motul go for the 7100 if your not got the bike pined all day.

[blackryder]

i was originaly using 7100, it seemed to be pretty good, but was told the 300V was the ducks nuts of oils, so i went for it.
At the end of the day, i want an oil that is doing the best protection job of the inside the engine as possible.
I dont race and its not my everyday ride. (Company cars are great aren't they)
I think i'd like to keep using full synethetic oil (dont know why), is it actually better??
keeping the internals in pristine condition is a top priority.

[MAXUMIS]

i was originaly using 7100, it seemed to be pretty good, but was told the 300V was the ducks nuts of oils, so i went for it.
At the end of the day, i want an oil that is doing the best protection job of the inside the engine as possible.
I dont race and its not my everyday ride. (Company cars are great aren't they)
I think i'd like to keep using full synethetic oil (dont know why), is it actually better??
keeping the internals in pristine condition is a top priority.

300v is a total flat out oil(meant for track style riding only)if you go to the motul site it will help its NOT good for street riding.it is the ducks guts oil for what its made for .if you do a lot of street miles 7100 will be perfect+ its still great on a track and cost a lot less!! sorry for missing this bit( is it actually better??)its a known fact(in mechanical style of industrys) that it causes less friction thats why its not good to bed a motor in on it/synthetic oils i mean

[Gosling1]

..... but was wondering if there is something out there i could try that is as good, if not better than the 300v, and possibly something that wont hurt my hip pocket when i go to fill her up again........

Motul 5100 will do the job mate - heaps of us here use this. It is nowhere near as expensive as 300V, and it will give your engine plenty of protection. The fact that it is a semi-synth is not an issue at all in these motors - as pointed out, unless you are at max rpm all the time (ie track bike or ride-day junkie) - then 300V is a waste of money.

Oils are designed for certain applications - just because an oil cost shitloads, does not make it the *best* oil for your particular application, but this is a trap that heaps of punters fall into.

I thrash the living ring out of my 12 (around the 'burbs and odd track days here & there), and it has been fed a steady diet of 5100 since about the 3rd? oil change, back in 2005. It now has maybe 60k on the dial, and sounds as good today as it did 6 years ago.

[Glen]

I've always used 5100 in the roadies. Full synth for the trackies.

[photomike666]

I use Silkolene fully synthetic in both bikes, nice and cheap at Super Cheap Auto. The semi synth is ok too. Never had any issues in the last 90k between 2 bikes

[blackryder]

Motul 5100 will do the job mate - heaps of us here use this. It is nowhere near as expensive as 300V, and it will give your engine plenty of protection. The fact that it is a semi-synth is not an issue at all in these motors - as pointed out, unless you are at max rpm all the time (ie track bike or ride-day junkie) - then 300V is a waste of money.

ok ok...sounds like good advice to me, one more thing...now that i have been using 300v, is there anything special i should do before throwing 7100 or 5100 down its throat. I've heard its not good to go from one to the other...cant remember which way (true or load of balony) thanks all

[Blurr]

Yeah it is true to certain extent, by it would need to be mote variations in oil brands/ types to do what you are talking about.

If you change oil brands all the time then they can create a mucky build up in your engine crevaces and oil sump pick up screen can get blocked. However as I said this is extreme after years of bad servicing and inconsistency. If your really worried about it pull your sump off after the next service ( not this one) to see if you find any build up.

Ohhh and I agree with the above, the 300v was not intended for your purposes.

[Smitty]

..... but was wondering if there is something out there i could try that is as good, if not better than the 300v, and possibly something that wont hurt my hip pocket when i go to fill her up again........

Motul 5100 will do the job mate - heaps of us here use this. It is nowhere near as expensive as 300V, and it will give your engine plenty of protection. The fact that it is a semi-synth is not an issue at all in these motors - as pointed out, unless you are at max rpm all the time (ie track bike or ride-day junkie) - ..............

I am with Gos...have always used 5100 in my 12r

[timmyrocks]

I'd only be worried if you were going from synthetic to mineral mate, going from synthetic to semi syn will be fine. Just do your oil filter also
As above 5100 is Awsome! Used it in every bike (apart from race bike)
And 5100 is well priced around $55 I think.....

[mick12]

I use 7100 in mine and no problems at all as for clunky shift that problem was fixed with PROPPER and fine adjustments at both ends of the cable i also buy it a liter at a time each week or two then when change time comes around its there and you dont notice the wallet shrink as much when when you spend $21 at a time

[MAXUMIS]

is there anything special i should do before throwing 7100 or 5100 down its throat. I've heard its not good to go from one to the other...cant remember which way (true or load of balony) thanks all
[/quote]
the main problem with a majar change of oil styles is on the clutch pack it can cause it to shutter and the clutch pack can brake away and block the pickup if you put it back to the oil you were running there should not be a problem

[blackryder]

ok, thanks all, some good stuff there, as far as changing away from the 300V, i really wanted to do it anyway, too expensive & i knew it really was only for track work and hard riding life.
Now the next big question.....5100 or 7100....or anything else??. The 7100 is still the full synethetic, & the 5100 is semi-synth. correct?
I think i'll go the 7100, could anyone tell me maybe what oils are crap & which ones to really stay away from.
cheers all

[Blurr]

Woolworths $15 motor oil is only good for madkaw's Rodeo

Other than that with all the research the manufactures put in these days you really cant go to wrong as long as you get the right weights.