I have a 96 model zx9r and have had a chain rattle noise for a bit of time...thinking nothing of it....Kawasaki normal noise...but drove me mad
First you would think Cam chain. I did the usual by changing to a APE manual CCT....lifted the valve cover and had a peek at the Cam Chain and everything was ok...but still a noise..even got the whine or wind noise when i knew the manual tensioner was to tight so backed it out a bit.
The noise was there when you started the bike and sometimes was quieter when running. I placed a screw driver about the bike and the noise was coming from the clutch area more so.
THERE IS A CHAIN AND 1 X MANUAL TENSIONER, 1X AUTO TENSIONER BEHIND THE CLUTCH BASKET THAT DOES SOUND SIMILAR TO CAM CHAIN NOISE.
Getting to it is easy when you know how.
Put the bike on the side stand (no need to empty the oil but maybe a little dribble so get a pan incase)....bike in gear
On the right side of the bike is the clutch cover (bit with the oil viewing window on it). remove the bolts holding this on about 6-8 bolts...then tap with rubber mallet and cover will come off. leave metal gasket on the motor case..
you will then see the clutch hub cover covering the plates...remove the bolts and springs (about 6 ) and the hub cover will come off. Now remove the clutch plates and metal plates...(notice that the first plate is one notch around compared to the others). find a zip it bag and place all of the disk and metal plates inside and add some motorbike oil in the bag to keep them soaked.Check the metal plates for scoring or a bluish colour..bit of sand paper to clean these babies up.....if the clutch plates look worn (little pads) you need some new clutch plates (will notice if your clutch is clipping when riding)
This is the hardest part of the job. The clutch nut need to come off to remove the basket. The nut is a 36MM and best idea is with a air compressor and rattle gun or long bar but rattle gun is a better idea. Now the whole basket will come out easy as. remember to have bike in gear and someone on the brake incase the bike wants to move forward.
With the basket removed you will now see the ...chain...manual tensioner at the top...auto tensioner at the bottom. IS THE CHAIN LOOSE IF SO REMOVE BOTH TENSIONERS.
with the tensioner removered reset the auto one as like the CCT and place back in. with the manual one...some bike from factory didnt get theis tensioner done enough so just tighten or loosed the top nut accordingly . If after all this and the chain is still too loose...CHANGE IT...they are about $20 and no biggy swapping with both tensioners out.
All done now put everything back together in reverse order...and take you time........things to remember,,,,,
clutch plates need to be soaked in oil otherwise clutch grabbing may occur or no clutch because plates have stuck together (pull out and soak for 30 min in icecream container or bag)
replacing clutch nut needs to be tight about 110 pressure
last clutch plate you put in is off set from the others by one notch
DO NOT touch the clutch lever during this job
After all of this my bike is as quiet as a mouse and not chain noise at all. the reason Idid this was to find the chain noise in the bike once and for all. My outcome was a broken bottom auto tensioner which cused my manual one not to work and my chain was as loose as anything....now good as gold
hope this helps someone else out.
SMILEY